F53 brakes

[John Hilley]

I have a 35' Winnebago Brave on a 1999 F-53 and a 2003 38' Winnebago Adventurer on a 2002 F-53 chassis. Both brake extremely well.

[R.Wold]

Mine stops fine when things go as planned, but there’s been a couple times when something very unexpected happened and I had to really stand on the brakes to keep from getting tangled up with the errant vehicle.

This has led to even greater following distances, slower speeds, and more anticipation of inattentive drivers. I have about 40 years driving emergency vehicles including large fire apparatus, and had the benefit of skid pad and EVOC training, and yet occasionally stuff still happens.

I’d prefer more stopping power and my coach is only 30’, but given what I have, which seems to be operating properly (older but low milage and we’ll within spec), I just make greater allowances. My E450 Class C’s (had two of them) both stopped better and one was a 2001 30’.

But I also agree- with new pads and rotors, you need to bed them in to get decent results. If you’re not familiar with the process, do a google search and read a few explanations and then go forth and conquer.

[Coarsegold]

Hard to be an internet mechanic, I would just have a tech test drive it to see for himself. Just wondering Why did it need full brakes at 17,000 miles anyway?

[RELHUB]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Here, if that helps.Attachment 285147

You have a HYDRO BOOST system
You need to have that checked out.
If that system is not working properly
it will give you the scary brake performance
you are dealing with.

[Zow]

The reason for total brake job at 17000 miles was because previous owner used it in flo. and niagra falls both high humidity places. put it away without cleaning brakes. rotors rusted so badly they had crators in them he had it registered in montana so they never had it inspected, no maintenance at all . I got it at a very good price so I knew it needed a brake job besides love is blind and I fell in love with the lay out inside I have upgraded almost everything on this RV from the roof, to air conditioners, even added a built in wine rack .My list is too long to go into but I still love it I guess the RV bug bit me a few times.

[Nickd]

While its true your Hydro boost may have a problem, I suspect that if it was not working you would definitely know.

Chances are your shop used aftermarket pads (maybe even "lifetime warranty pads"). I had the same issue on a 99 Brave on a 20.5k F53 chassis. after an unnecessary brake job at 26000 miles. It didn't like to stop with the new brakes. In my case the Hydro boost worked just fine.

Don't underestimate the quality of well seated/burnished OEM Ford brake pads. They last just fine and stop quite well. With liability claims being what they are in today's world, you can trust Ford pads likely have the shortest stopping distance of any pad available. I would also bet they have the test data to prove it ever needed.

[Sweetbriar]

Here's a very long shot but simple check just to make sure the RV Supercenter, that will remain nameless, didn't make a rookie mistake.

Check the calibers and make sure the bleed zerk is to the top and not the bottom of each caliber. It's the reason why there are different part numbers for the left and right wheels. You'll never get all the air out of the caliber that is installed upside down.

Like I said a long shot but easy to check.

Also keep in mind that the modern F53 (at least since the intro of the V10) uses a hydro boost system rather than a vacuum boost. The hydro boost uses hydraulic fluid pressure from the power steering pump to aid the driver. There are fluid pressure tests that can be performed but this isn't something the average shade tree mech has the tools to do and might require shop support to check.

[Zow]

I didnt know zerk fitting had to be on top , thanks for that I will check that tomorrow. Thanks again ZOW

[twinboat]

They are bleeder screws, zerk fittings are for grease.

If they were on the bottom, the upper part of the caliper will be full of air and the pedal will feel like your stepping on a sponge.

That wasn't your complaint.

[Zow]

Thanks for clearing that up twinboat, Im. such a zerk

[Tlmr4784]

No expert on brakes, but have completed countless complete brake jobs, many truck, suv, applications.
Sounds like you have air in the hydraulic system.
Bring it to a truck brake specialist, not camping world.

[kirkpal1]

Just got online to post the same issue when I noticed this thread already in progress. I just purchased a 2012 Open Road on the F53. The unit I am replacing is a 2003 Open Road on a Workhorse. My workhorse stopped on a dime and gave change, my new to me F53 just looks at me stupid when I hit the brakes. I literally have to stand on the petal. I have read all the previous comments and will follow the advice but do not know where to go to get service. I live north of Baton Rouge La. Can anyone recommend someone in my area? Thanks

[powercat_ras]

> where to get service ( Ford F53 chassis ) ?

There are 675 Ford Commercial Vehicle Centers in the USA, that would have experience working on Ford F53 including brake systems. These are just Ford Dealer Service Centers that have equipped themselves to service Ford's line of large chassis and trucks in addition to their cars and pickups. Can find them by google search Ford Commercial Vehicle Center. That would be a safe bet but on the higher cost send of the scale. Good luck.

[YC1]

Sure am waiting for the answer even though it has been over ten years since we had the workhorse chassis that took both feet to stop. It was brand new. Took it to the shop and it improved slightly but not enough.

It was not a soft pedal. I suspected either the ABS system was keeping the proper pressure from getting to the brakes or that the brake lines were not designed proper. They went from decent size lines and then split off into tiny lines. I highly suspected that transition caused a loss of mechanical advantage.