F53 Class A - kill the rocking. Sumo Springs or Rear Anti-Roll bar?

[wmckinley]

2007 F53, Started with CHF, and poly bushings all around, then added rear track bar, next was front sumo's, Then front super steer, last year added roadmaster rear stabilizer and replaced shocks with koni's.

It not the same coach I started with. Pleasure to drive, sway is minimized. I don't feel the road as much (Koni's helped with that) Semi's don't bother and higher cross-winds not as knuckle inducing.

[Park Super]

We put Sumos on all four corners and solved the body roll and generally made all aspects of driving the coach improved. Much more confident in the corners, when trucks are in our slip stream, cross winds, driveways used to feel as if we would roll over but no more, all very much improved. I would highly recommend the Sumo Springs. We have no other suspension upgrades and do not feel like we need anything more. However, when it is time to replace the shocks we will upgrade to Koni or some other progressive style.

[TeJay]

If you've got DEEP pockets then do every steering and suspension MOD available and I'm sure the cumulative effect of everything added will give you a better riding and handling coach.

If you don't have deep pockets listening to what others have done is a mixed bag. How many time do you have to read that every coach is different. There are just to many variables based on weight, length, overhang on longer coaches, distribution of weight, how the builder placed the heavy stuff and on and on and on. With all the variables almost every MOD will give different results therefore that makes every response you get subject to someones interpretation of THEIR RV with that MOD which is not very accurate for yours.

If you want to spend $$$$ and want confirmation on how it effects an RV you'll probably hear from a poster who had good results but his/her RV may be a lot different for the many reasons listed above. If you expect and get the same good results consider your self lucky.

The proper way to go about this OMHO is to do the CHEAP stuff first: tire pressures,
for sure.

If your RV is over 5 years old for sure check the SB both front and rear. That's stabilizer bars or some call them anti-SWAY bars. Check all attaching bolts and remove them and add some blue lock tight. They have been known to come loose.

Now that you know the tires pressures are at a sweet spot and the SB system is up to par do the CHF (Cheap Handling Fix). This is one MOD that has universally achieved good to great results across the board on every F-53 coach.

You can believe me or not it matters not to me. Or you can read all the positive comments on that thread. I'd say it's about 98% for and 2% against.

So far you've spent NO $$$$$$$. How's the ride and handling. Did it change much?? If you're still not happy how old are the shocks??? If they are getting up in years it's probably time to do the shocks anyway. We changed our with only 1,000 miles. Yes we went with the Koni's but they are not cheap ($700).

A shock added to the steering is a good idea. It will help with the steering stability and not an ex[pensive MOD compared to others. Ours was a DIY one and cost me about $125.

If you have one installed and don't notice any changes then the shock is working. It took me about 2 months of driving when it finally dawned on me. If there's a sudden gust of wind and I don't feel it then the shock resisted the wind and kept the RV from being pushed to the side. When turning the steering wheel is moving the shock slower than a gust of wind so there's no change in turning effort but a gust of wind is a sudden effort to change direction and the shocks does its job.

Ford added a front track bar back in about 2006 but there is no rear TB even on the 2017 units. That MOD is another good one. Most see good to great results in the handling. Even if an RV is handling OK now the TB will add to the comfort especially under adverse windy conditions.

We have Sumo's added but I'm not sure of the benefits. Yes I realize some say they are great but then again every coach is slightly to greasily different. So one mans super improvement is anothers, why did I spend the $$$ for that? It's junk.

Good luck with your quest. I can drive one handed 95% of the time.

One more comment that is important!! Shock are designed to dampen leaf spring movement but they are also very involved in all aspects of frame, suspension movement as well as wind and SWAY effects of any kind. If shocks resist sudden movement and they are connected from the frame to the suspension then any of that movement is controlled by the shocks. Very important that they be good and refreshed.

[wmckinley]

X2 Tejay,

I did do the cheap fixes first, Tires and pressures within 2 months of buying it. Had a blowout on one of the rear duallies so I replaced all as they were 6 years old. CHF, SB bushings all around, then Rear track bar.

Next was steering stabilizer and front Sumo's, tried the rear sumo's no effect took those back off. Each update incrementally improved the handling except the rear sumo's

Last year replaced shocks since they were 9 years old, and added additional rear stabilizer.

We only travel about 8,000 miles a year and Like 2 lane roads. We're happy with the handling.

But as Tejay said, each coach is different, and in addition IMHO making a lot of changes all at once is not effective because you don't know which one was really worth it.

Since I do most of my own work ( I didn't do the shocks) cost wasn't terrible.

Enjoy your coach and have fun and be safe

[coolinthem]

I have a 2013 Challenger 36 FD and it had the roll bar you mention when I bought the unit. Had considerable roll and rode rough. Installed the Sumo Springs and Koni shocks. It eliminated porposeing and practically eliminated the rolling. Smoothed out the rough ride considerably.
Good luck.

[creativepart]

Thanks to all. It's good to hear the various stories. To refresh my situation. Brand NEW RV. 2-months old. I put a Roadmaster Steering Stabilizer on it already and like the improvement.

The 2017 F53 has new Bilstein Shocks (OEM) and front and rear Anti-roll Bars also OEM. It's the 24,000lb chassis and it has a pretty large amount of side to side body roll. Since the coach is brand new - I'm assuming that the bushings, roll bars and shocks are good as is.

In the research I've done to date, folks like adding the beefy ADDITIONAL Roadmaster Rear Anti-Roll bar in conjunction with the OEM roll bars. OR they like the Sumo Springs.

The anti-roll bar is about $950 installed and the Sumos are about $1,800 installed on all 4-corners.

If I can solve the rolling then I'd be happy with the ride in general. So, I'm just gathering datapoints from others to help make my decision.

[RRR]

Follow what TeJay said. Do the free stuff first.

My rear sway bar brackets broke and one was loose. The local Ford dealer repaired under warranty at about five months old. New make no differance, Ford messed up on this.

In my case the CHF didn't solve things to my satisfaction. Rather than throw a blanket fix at it I am taking the one piece at a time approach. I replaced the front sway bar with a Hellwig but was really disappointed with the results, I could tell no differance. After running it for awhile I talked to Roadmaster and Hellwig and they both said the same thing. Do the rear sway bar first. I just did the rear bar and, WOW. I am saying it solved 80% of my sway problems. Not sure if my next step is Sumo's or track bar.

Everyone sings praises for Roadmaster. Hellwig 7216 SB is 1 3/4 inch diameter vs 1 5/8 for RM. Some dealers list the Hellwig as 1 5/8 though. Compare the two brands. From what I could see both are the same except the downlinks. Hellwig includes the u-bolts, RM are extra. Hellwig is $150 cheaper.

I did DIY on both front and rear. Rear is tough as the u-bolts require 300 pound touque but so and I took turns on them with a four foot pipe. Hellwig supplies replacement SAE bolts for the upper bracket rather than the metric. I chooses to buy longer metric ones so I could resume the OEM nuts that have a "wing" welded on them, eliminating the need to get a wrench on the inside frame to hold nuts.

[creativepart]

Hey RRR,
Thanks for that response. Very helpful.

You Said:

Hellwig supplies replacement SAE bolts for the upper bracket rather than the metric. I chooses to buy longer metric ones so I could resume the OEM nuts that have a "wing" welded on them,

The REAR Sway Bar is an additional add-on item - it does not replace the OEM Sway Bar. Correct? So, your comment about the OEM bolts, etc was for the Hellwig Front Sway bar - right?

I'm not familiar with the Hellwig Swar-Bar. I'll take a look.

Thanks again.

[RRR]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Hey RRR,
Thanks for that response. Very helpful.

You Said:


The REAR Sway Bar is an additional add-on item - it does not replace the OEM Sway Bar. Correct? So, your comment about the OEM bolts, etc was for the Hellwig Front Sway bar - right?

I'm not familiar with the Hellwig Swar-Bar. I'll take a look.

Thanks again.

The rear Hellwig is an additional bar. The OEM bolts I was referring to are on the mounting bracket on the frame for the downlinks. Three of the four crossmember bolts are removed then the bracket is added and rebolted. The bolts that are removed are the ones I replaced. Etrailer has a good video on the install, but it is done one a lift. Shows how to install the mentioned bolts.

Hellwig instructions are a tad unclear. But with some thinking and compairing to the Roadmaster it isn't that bad.

Leaf Springs, Helper Springs and Suspension Parts | SD Truck Springs for Hellwig and etrailer.com for Roadmaster seem to be best prices. Both HW and RM seem to have good customer service. Don't forget Google too.

[creativepart]

Circling back on this topic, I went with Sumo Springs. They are available lots of places for between $500 and 600 on line, but I found them on Amazon for $470 each and had a local place install them.

We haven't had a chance to use them other than to drive from the RV repair shop to home - about 30 miles - so, I'll report back when we have a real road test under our belt.

PS. My initial reaction is that the chassis seems more controlled, but still rocks from side to side some. Perhaps less than before, but it's still noticeable.

[zekethomas]

Installed roadmaster sways, safe-t steer and sumo's when I got the coach 4 months ago.

Back from 5,600 miles and the Sumo's were a game changer. She still launches when you hit that old bridge but she lands with a soft cush.....

Trucks passing moves us only when there is already a strong wind. If the wind is light, trucks passing are nothing.

Climbing, switchbacks, turning, narrow driveways ...etc... the coach is not 'tippy' any more. As well, the "house" is a beneficiary of this as well. Much less noise when I hit bumps and enter driveways.

My rolling earthquake is reduced from a 6.5 to a 5 on the richter scale. Its still an earthquake, but much less. Less screw turning on this trip.

[Peter M]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Circling back on this topic, I went with Sumo Springs. They are available lots of places for between $500 and 600 on line, but I found them on Amazon for $470 each and had a local place install them.

We haven't had a chance to use them other than to drive from the RV repair shop to home - about 30 miles - so, I'll report back when we have a real road test under our belt.

PS. My initial reaction is that the chassis seems more controlled, but still rocks from side to side some. Perhaps less than before, but it's still noticeable.

Our coach is similar in size my 2017 Tiffin 32 SA 24 K chassis is 36 ft long.
My coach had sumo springs installed at factory, prior to delivery dealer installed Safe T plus and rear trac bar. The coach drove good but I wanted a better ride.
After installing a Road master front SB, rear CHF, Koni FSD front shocks and QUAD Rear FSD shocks the ride is solid and plush. Also almost no roll no proposing allows proper tire inflation @ 82 psi rear and 84 front.
The last mod will be a rear SB to enhance the stock SB.

I performed the modifications to enhance the ride and greatly improve safety !
Old saying
Just Do It !

[Blackjack]

I installed the Hellwig rear sway bar, Safety steer and the CHF I also had a front end alignment the shop that did my alignment did the CHF for me while it was on the alignment machine at no additional charge he also had the steer safe loose during the alignment and he tightened it with the wheels straight after the alignment.. My opinion is that if you are experiencing sway taht you should install a product ( sway bar ) that is made to do that. The Hellwig comes with the longer replacement U bolts that go over the axle. If you look at the rear sway it ties the frame and axle together on both sides of the frame. A trac bar (to me) seems to do much the same but only one side of the frame and one location on the Axle. At any rate the work that was done has cured my problems to the point where it is a much better ride. The body roll is minimal and little to no sway in quartering stiff wind. In looking at the installation video of the Sumo's they also tie the axle back to the frame and I think this is why they are doing a good job. I do think the Sumos can make a more harsh ride if they are not needed. My next upgrade will most likely be Koni FSD in a couple of years. I will also keep a close eye on the sway bar bushings.

[DGundy]

I did the same and totally agree with the results. 🚍🤠