F53 handling problems,

[billrich]

Originally Posted by marjoa

We have the same chassis you do. What exactly is your handling problem? Details please.

Just tired of fighting the steering wheel

[Betr2Trvl]

Originally Posted by billrich

Just tired of fighting the steering wheel

If you haven’t seen this recent thread, it may provide some helpful insight as well.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/supe...rs-483583.html

Just one other thought to add to my other post, not only does the “pendulum effect” created by lot weight way behind the rear axle create / exaggerate the “tail wagging the dog” scenario, it also exaggerates “porpoiseing” or up/down motion caused by dips / bumps.

In any case, good luck!

[Fiesta48]

I fixed my wandering by eliminating my 3/8" toe in. Did it myself.

[Jssr]

Betr2's original post in this thread is the best one I have ever seen on this topic. I too have a REV product with a short wheelbase (208") and a 22000 lb chassis. It is tail heavy and that is compounded by the fact that the manufacturer chose to mount a combo washer/dryer at the very rear of the coach. I am about 300 lbs short of the rear axel rating when fully loaded and about 1400 lbs light in the front. I find that I can balance this out by placing more weight up front and carrying a full load of fresh water. I also inflate tires per Michelin specs. I have a rear track bar. It still handles poorly but before I did all this, I was tempted to trade it in and lose a lot of $$$. In contrast, my buddy has a 2018 Allegro 32 SA on a 24000 lb chassis with sumos and a 228" wheelbase and it is MUCH more stable. I guess you get what you pay for.

[billrich]

Originally Posted by Fiesta48

I fixed my wandering by eliminating my 3/8" toe in. Did it myself.

I wouldn’t have a clue how to do that

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by billrich

Just tired of fighting the steering wheel

As I said earlier we have the same chassis and basically the same coach as you do only yours is a tad longer. We're 35' 3". But that tad more can make a difference but also can be dealt with.

Our coach—like yours—take time and patience to "tune". I spent 18 months modifying, upgrading and "tuning" our coach before we went FT. You can see a partial list of what we did to our chassis in our signature.

Each coach—especially gas coaches—will present it's own personality and handling traits and they can for the most part, be over come. This "tuning" process includes many things and Betr2Trvl pretty much laid it out for you. Doing a 4 corner weighing of your coach, then proper weight distribution of your cargo weight (or your CCC), proper PSI according to your weight, front end alignment and a then few suspension mod's are pretty much standard places to start if you want a smoother more comfortable ride in any F-53 chassis.

These coaches don't drive nice and smooth out of the box. There's a lot of things that affect the overall drive.

So no, Sumo springs should not be your first step but may/may not come later.

We also have the 228", 22K chassis and ours handles like a dream now. But that end result just didn't happen. It took me studying the problem, then implementing the solution(s). That took time. We don't fight the steering wheel.

I did a three part video series on all the things we did to our coach. Part two covers what we did to the battery bay, portable solar, propane, generator, and under the chassis. If you want, you can view that video here.

Good luck my friend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_8pBqmSVp8&t=582s

[billrich]

Originally Posted by marjoa

As I said earlier we have the same chassis and basically the same coach as you do only yours is a tad longer. We're 35' 3". But that tad more can make a difference but also can be dealt with.

Our coach—like yours—take time and patience to "tune". I spent 18 months modifying, upgrading and "tuning" our coach before we went FT. You can see a partial list of what we did to our chassis in our signature.

Each coach—especially gas coaches—will present it's own personality and handling traits and they can for the most part, be over come. This "tuning" process includes many things and Betr2Trvl pretty much laid it out for you. Doing a 4 corner weighing of your coach, then proper weight distribution of your cargo weight (or your CCC), proper PSI according to your weight, front end alignment and a then few suspension mod's are pretty much standard places to start if you want a smoother more comfortable ride in any F-53 chassis.

These coaches don't drive nice and smooth out of the box. There's a lot of things that affect the overall drive.

So no, Sumo springs should not be your first step but may/may not come later.

We also have the 228", 22K chassis and ours handles like a dream now. But that end result just didn't happen. It took me studying the problem, then implementing the solution(s). That took time. We don't fight the steering wheel.

I did a three part video series on all the things we did to our coach. Part two covers what we did to the battery bay, portable solar, propane, generator, and under the chassis. If you want, you can view that video here.

Good luck my friend.

Excellent, thanks. Where did you get the brackets you added to your sway bars?

[wackymac]

pushtrk99--Please show us a photo of your completed and installed track bar.

[tderonne]

Originally Posted by wackymac

pushtrk99--Please show us a photo of your completed and installed track bar.

Check out some version 1.0 pictures here.

[Luv2go]

Our Newmar Canyon Star had a worse WB/OL percentage than the OP's. By the time I was done with it it handled better than the Roadtrek until I added the trackbar, and almost as well as the Honda Odyssey van we own.

As did many others on this thread I:

Had a front end alignment. Try to get the caster increased to the upper limit and it varies by ride hieght, this TSB has some explanation. Adding caster is painful so some shops won't want to do it if it is "in spec", try to find one that agrees in advance to put it at the upper spec as called for in the TSB.

Did a 4 corner weighing and adjusted tire pressures to 5PSI above the recommendation from the tire manufacturer. For our coaches with no tag axles a 4 corner weighing can be done at truck stops as long as they don't have rails or something that keeps you from putting your left or right wheels off the scales for one of two passes through the scales. After you do the first weighing with all wheels on the scales, making sure your fronts are on one section and your rears are on another section, drive around and put either your left or right side tires off the scales and ask for a reweigh. A little math and you have corner weights. This definitely helped, especially with rebound from highway joints, etc.

Added a rear track bar. This was the thing that made the most difference with the tail wagging the dog, which my coach had a severe issue with.

Did the CHF on both front and rear. You've done the front already, the rear helped, but less than the front on my coach.

Added airbags front and rear with remote controls for each bag. This did not help the ride much, it was done mostly so we could "stealth level".

Added a Reflex steering stabilizer. You've already done this, for me it helped with the steering feel and reduced the sawing at the wheel I was doing to keep a straight line.

As others have said, there are many things that can be done to improve the F53's handling, some are cheap and some not so much.

[John Hilley]

I don't think you will find better information than Betr2Trvl provided.

I believe tire pressure is the most important factor. You also have to remember it is a truck and it drives different than cars, pickups and suvs. I have a 2003 F-53 38ft Winnebago Adventurer 38G. I just drove several hundred miles with a gusty side wind of constant 20 mph and gusting to 30 and even 40 mph through Kansas and Nebraska and was able to drive one handed. It meant I had to reduce my speed and on the two lane roads prepare for the blast when I passed semis going the opposite direction. You have to drive visually farther in front than when driving a car.

My motorhome is stock. I bought a rear track bar but have never gotten around to installing it.

[billrich]

Originally Posted by tderonne

Check out some version 1.0 pictures here.

Interesting

[Harvard]

Originally Posted by billrich

Just tired of fighting the steering wheel

You have too little caster....should be at least + 5 degrees or more.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/fron...ml#post5207499

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by billrich

Excellent, thanks. Where did you get the brackets you added to your sway bars?

He doesn't sell them anymore.