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Old 06-16-2022, 10:46 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mudfrog View Post
There is no page showing specific specifications for the Sport models.

The specifications for the 2903 are as follows. Uvw is approximately 16,430 lbs. Gcwr is 26,000.
On page 15 of the pdf. But you found the numbers it shows there.

Not saying it's now suddenly under the various specs, just want to be sure everyone has the right info when they read this thread.
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Old 06-16-2022, 11:02 AM   #16
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I won't be the tow capacity police but if it were me.....
Add the biggest transmission cooler you can fit, (the one best improvement you can do for occasionally pushing tow limit capacity) make sure the trailer brakes are 100% operable, use rated safety chains to dedicated frame attachment points, gear down/slow down and most importantly....never exceed your GCVWR. Ok, well maybe I will police a little...
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Old 06-17-2022, 04:32 AM   #17
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Argosy I'm not giving legal advice. You are.
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Old 06-17-2022, 10:34 AM   #18
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Tow ratings are to protect the manufacturer. There is no "legally" involved unless a CDL and commercial use are involved.
Not true. As someone who has worked in the insurance/litigation world for over 15 years, I can tell you our company as been involved with numerous accidents involving overloaded RVs. If the RV owner is towing more than his allowed rating and has an accident, in most cases his insurance company will walk away. That's when the litigation begins.

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Old 06-17-2022, 07:46 PM   #19
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So I am sure you are going to get.. a lot of professional opinions
And here is my professional opinion. I was an automatic transmission engineer at Ford for 19 years. I did a lot of towing and transmission cooling development.

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Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
research oil temp versus eng and trans life.. so... just ringing in here..
You will probably come up with a chart that says that anything over 200F will destroy the trans. It's a chart made up by people selling coolers. It isn't even CLOSE to being true.

You can run as high as 220F all day long with no problem. The trans is designed to run at this temp and the ATF does NOT degrade at this temp.

You can run up to 250F for up to a half hour at a time. There are some plastic parts that will degrade if you run hotter than this for a long time.

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3rd.. over size both coolers .. by adding very large tube type coolers.. sence your rv .. most likely has plate type coolers.. use tube and fin.. check out DERALE.
I don't understand why he is telling you to degrade the coolers. Plate type coolers will cool the ATF *FAR* better than a tube and fin. A tube and fin is better than no cooler, but not by a lot.

I recommend changing the air to oil cooler for a cooler from a 2003-2007 F-Series with a 6.0L engine. That is a very large and very efficient cooler. Keep the cooler that is in the radiator, that also removes a ton of heat from the transmission.
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Old 06-17-2022, 09:31 PM   #20
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While I certainly respect the above opinions.. I only voice my opinion.. in that it can be unwise to add a plate type cooler in the same line as an exciting plate type cooler.. but to each there own.. I would not.. in my opinion... I would never add plate type cooler to eng oil.. in my opinion.. there can be a problem with too much restriction.. or friction loss.. I already know.. trans oil cooler lines run 5 to 6 psi.. and eng oil lines can run 40 to 80psi... but if one has.. an external plate cooler inline with radiator cooler.. then in my 50yrs of experience.. you can starve the trans under heavy and over loaded and long term heavy load conditions.. if you add another plate type cooler..
And I found .. in my humble opinion that if you add a plate type cooler to eng oil line... you can blow a oil line.. under heavy loads.. because of 40 to 80psi.. yes there is some exclusion.. like heavy equipment..

So the above opinions.. confirms that running a trans to too hot.. Will burn it up.. in the simplest terms.. and one should monitor trans and eng temps closely..
Also.. I point out.. that transmission mechanic.. gets paid. To repair transmission.. so what's 5 to 10 grand to him.. when it's your money.. I would try to make a case against coolers too..

In my humble opinion.. you do what you want.. and if adding a cooler keeps my stuff out of his shop then I am happy.. one can see.. why they would want you to run as hot as you can..

It is your rv.. op... so .. experiment.. find what works for you.. and sence you stated that you already wielded up the frame and hitch.. I have faith you are a fairly good mechanic.. do what you believe is right..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 06-17-2022, 09:47 PM   #21
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Also.. you price the ford cooler at a ford dealer as stated above.. and price one on DERALE.. you decide which one to get.. i have no affiliation with DERALE.. and there are probably different coolers you can get.. if i worked at a certain company.. and got retirement from them.. I would promote them.. too.. just again.. my humble opinion..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 06-17-2022, 10:11 PM   #22
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Just to clarify something:

If you overload your RV weight limit and cause an accident, your insurer might deny your (comprehensive-form) claim for damage to your own property. But not likely. Most commonly, you won't get renewed or you'll get a painful bump in future premium.

They will not (and cannot) walk away from whatever claims might be brought against you by other people for damage that you cause to them and their property. Liability insurance - required in most states in order to license a vehicle - is a form of surety, where the insurer promises all other drivers that it will pay the bill for your faults. The insurer cannot simply withdraw this promise to all other drivers just because you messed up your weight.

People do stupid things every day and cause accidents and incur liability. Doing stupid things doesn't void coverage. The insurer has already reviewed your history when it writes your policy, and a major part of pricing involves trying to predict how often you'll do stupid things in the future, because that's when they'll have to pay.
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Old 06-18-2022, 12:19 AM   #23
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I believe the Ford trans has a bypass on it built in to short circuit ATF to the cooler if flow becomes impeded.
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Old 06-18-2022, 02:44 PM   #24
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While I certainly respect the above opinions.. I only voice my opinion.. in that it can be unwise to add a plate type cooler in the same line as an exciting plate type cooler..
I agree with that. It is also unwise to add a tube and fin cooler in the same line as an existing plate type cooler.

I recommended replacing the current cooler with a much larger one.

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Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
Also.. you price the ford cooler at a ford dealer as stated above.. and price one on DERALE.. you decide which one to get.. i have no affiliation with DERALE.. and there are probably different coolers you can get.. if i worked at a certain company.. and got retirement from them.. I would promote them.. too.. just again.. my humble opinion..
Good luck and keep us posted
I did NOT recommend getting a cooler from a Ford dealer. I recommended a cooler that I know from testing is about the best cooler you can get. Many aftermarket companies are making that cooler and they can be purchased from any one of them.

You certainly like to put words in other people's mouths.

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I believe the Ford trans has a bypass on it built in to short circuit ATF to the cooler if flow becomes impeded.
You are correct.
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Old 06-18-2022, 08:56 PM   #25
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One can add a tube and fin.. inline with plate.. with no problem.. just try not to add plate type to more exciting plate type cooler.. and I do agree with above opinions.. to just change out exciting unit to a larger one.. but a lot more work and most likely most money.. I would very much enjoy.. a nice campfire with you and beverage of your choice.. I bet we could have a lively discussion.. and you could tell me your stories.. I would love to tell you a tall story about a man.. that worked at a car company above .. for 42yr building trans.. and you can teach me things I never dreamed of..
Good luck and keep us posted
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