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Old 11-13-2019, 03:53 AM   #15
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If the 18 wheelers are bothering you do you have a read track bar? That solve our problem.
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Old 11-13-2019, 05:18 AM   #16
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I wonder if alot of this is what we perceive as wander...or expectations...

My old 96 minnie 29' is very good, even before I added the rear sway bar and HD shock.. I run the tires at 80 all the way around. When running solo no tow, it gets the suck effect at times by a rig, I learn to stay attentive of the road, if I notice a "fly" I sort of push the pedal and stay a tad right and move slightly left as it passes,, NO drastic rock and roll.. I know that seems wierd but the normal habit when that big rig passes it to steeraway and ease the throttle, brain reacts as soon as the first push is felt.. and that is all in wrong direction..
My wife bitches why do you go so close, I said we did'nt get tossed to the gutter, she just gives the whatever,, but when I dont and we get the rool.. she has lots to say LOL
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Old 11-13-2019, 09:08 AM   #17
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sibe,

What you are doing makes perfect sense. That semi is making a very large fluid hole through the air. As it pushes forward past you the air is pushing away and around the semis front and side fenders. As it passes the wall of air tapers down so the area behind the cab fits through the hole. It's a fluid hole that is ever adapting to the semi's surfaces. When you move slightly to the right you are missing the biggest part of that wall of air and you feel that based on less push. After it is almost past the air from the truck wants to suck you into the hole it has created and when you move slightly left there are less turbulence and it gets easier with less rocking and rolling.

The faster the semi is the worst the results. When I see an empty car hauler I know they are going much faster that we are and I expect the larger push.

You also notice just as soon as the semi's truck passes and then pulls in front of you there are a lot of turbulence created as it begins to try and suck you into it wake.

Just talked with a friend who has driven RV's boats etc forever. He now pulls a 27' TT. His new tow vehicle has the ability to use cruise control to draft. As he comes up behind a semi he selects how many vehicle lengths (1, 2 ,3 etc) he wants to stay behind the semi. The cruise control will keep him exactly at that spacing. His fuel mileage goes from 8 or 9 to 11 or 12.
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:10 AM   #18
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Just one. I think they do the same thing. A giant spring connected to the tie rod and frame to keep the thing centered. Perhaps they use different tensions, though. I have the Safe-T-Plus and its spring is enclosed. I think the Roadmaster spring is exposed, for whatever that means.

Why did I go with the Safe-T-Plus? The dealer where we bought the motorhome is a certified installer for it and not for Roadmaster.

Ray
The Roadmaster allows you to change Center while driving
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:07 PM   #19
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I crawled under our MH after watching YouTube videos on mounting the Reflex and the Safe T Plus. They both seem relatively simple even though I'm going to be on my back in the driveway.


I noticed that there is an OEM steering damper under the front end. Is the Ford damper any good and how long does it last? Would it be worth the time and money to replace the OEM damper before going with an aftermarket product?


Sue46 I do not have a trac bar.
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:42 PM   #20
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I crawled under our MH after watching YouTube videos on mounting the Reflex and the Safe T Plus. They both seem relatively simple even though I'm going to be on my back in the driveway.


I noticed that there is an OEM steering damper under the front end. Is the Ford damper any good and how long does it last? Would it be worth the time and money to replace the OEM damper before going with an aftermarket product?


Sue46 I do not have a trac bar.
The safe-t-plus replaces the OEM steering damper.
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Old 11-13-2019, 01:48 PM   #21
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I crawled under our MH after watching YouTube videos on mounting the Reflex and the Safe T Plus. They both seem relatively simple even though I'm going to be on my back in the driveway.


I noticed that there is an OEM steering damper under the front end. Is the Ford damper any good and how long does it last? Would it be worth the time and money to replace the OEM damper before going with an aftermarket product?


Sue46 I do not have a trac bar.
I used a stock replacement stablizer.
Tire pressure i run 80 all the way around
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Old 11-13-2019, 01:50 PM   #22
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The Roadmaster allows you to change Center while driving
It does? There is no mention of that here: https://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/rss/reflex.php

I know Blue Ox has a product called TruCenter that did but there did not seem to be a lot of people using it and their web site is really, really vague. The bracket is $108 but there is no mention of the steering stabilizer itself that could find.

Ray
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Old 11-14-2019, 09:49 AM   #23
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Ransil when you installed the stock steering damper as a replacement did it help with the MHs steering? How many miles were on your unit when you installed the new damper?
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Old 11-14-2019, 01:58 PM   #24
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Those old Twin "I" Beam front ends did not handle well at their best. One of the best improvement you can do is install the stiffest shock you can get your hands on. That will control the "I" beam movement and minimize the camber/toe-in change every time the "I" beam goes up and down. The ride will not be overly harsh with the stiff shocks. I suggest the toe-in is a little lacking.
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Old 11-15-2019, 06:22 AM   #25
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The service writer told me they tried but couldn't get the settings close to that.
So they didn't touch caster and actually lowered your toe. If anything this would make things worse. You want more toe in, the more you have the straighter it will track at the expense of tire wear.

Toe can be set yourself pretty easily, almost as easy as the CHF and many places when taking a straight axle like that in for alignment really only deal with toe. Did they say they would/could do shims for caster? Then again caster looks fine and sounds like you wanted it lowered from 6 degrees which is odd.

I set my toe to max Ford spec which I believe was 3/32" total but I might go back and go over spec to at least 1/8" or more. I have seen no adverse tire wear over 10k miles and increasing toe was as big an improvement as the CHF, rear trac bar, and Safe-T-Plus.
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:05 AM   #26
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So they didn't touch caster and actually lowered your toe. If anything this would make things worse. You want more toe in, the more you have the straighter it will track at the expense of tire wear.

Toe can be set yourself pretty easily, almost as easy as the CHF and many places when taking a straight axle like that in for alignment really only deal with toe. Did they say they would/could do shims for caster? Then again caster looks fine and sounds like you wanted it lowered from 6 degrees which is odd.

I set my toe to max Ford spec which I believe was 3/32" total but I might go back and go over spec to at least 1/8" or more. I have seen no adverse tire wear over 10k miles and increasing toe was as big an improvement as the CHF, rear trac bar, and Safe-T-Plus.
The OP has a E 350/450 chassis.
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:23 AM   #27
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Ransil when you installed the stock steering damper as a replacement did it help with the MHs steering? How many miles were on your unit when you installed the new damper?
Overall no, tightend up a bit, still a big Rv Rolling down the road affected by crosswinds and trucks. 45K miles
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Old 11-15-2019, 09:05 AM   #28
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''For the back , Firestone Airbags , to stop the tail wagging the dog.''


I don't see how raising the back of the coach will do anything but making the tail wagging worse. If you raise the frame away from the rear end it gets more of a chance to move farther back and forth thus increasing the tail wag. I think that rear track bar would be the only way to stop that action.

Ken.......
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