Ford Econoline 350 stalling

[oddradiation]

Hello everyone. This is for a 1987 ford econoline e350. It is carbureted and has a electronic fuel pump.

So I am currently trying to fix my parents ford e350 rv. It will start up and run for about 20 seconds sometimes more sometimes less and then just slowly dies. It has had the fuel pump replaced as well as fuel filter. Also new gas has been put in we drained out old gas just in case.

I have just replaced 2 leaking vacuum lines as I am leaning toward it being a vacuum leak or a culmination of multiple leaks. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm or if I give it some gas and raise the rpms it will still end up stalling.

Now one thing is there is a part right under the carb in the front that screws in and it is leaking a bit of fuel. This is a new part that my dad replaced recently. I tried to tighten it but no effect so will need to replace that. Not sure if that would make a difference.

I'm at the point where Im probably just going to pull the carb and replace whatever lines I can going to it and cleaning the carb. Does anyone have any input on what the issue could be? I believe its running lean as when I spray carb cleaner down carb when it's about to die it raises the rpm and keeps it from dying. Thanks in advance

[RELHUB]

Originally Posted by oddradiation

Hello everyone. This is for a 1987 ford econoline e350. It is carbureted and has a electronic fuel pump.

So I am currently trying to fix my parents ford e350 rv. It will start up and run for about 20 seconds sometimes more sometimes less and then just slowly dies. It has had the fuel pump replaced as well as fuel filter. Also new gas has been put in we drained out old gas just in case.

I have just replaced 2 leaking vacuum lines as I am leaning toward it being a vacuum leak or a culmination of multiple leaks. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm or if I give it some gas and raise the rpms it will still end up stalling.

Now one thing is there is a part right under the carb in the front that screws in and it is leaking a bit of fuel. This is a new part that my dad replaced recently. I tried to tighten it but no effect so will need to replace that. Not sure if that would make a difference.

I'm at the point where Im probably just going to pull the carb and replace whatever lines I can going to it and cleaning the carb. Does anyone have any input on what the issue could be? I believe its running lean as when I spray carb cleaner down carb when it's about to die it raises the rpm and keeps it from dying. Thanks in advance

100% additional vacuum leaks to be found.
Also that leaking carb is a fire waiting to happen.
I would fix that first, then find your other vacuum leaks

[subford]

Sounds like a common oil pressure problem.
Bypass the oil pressure switch and see if it runs OK.
You should be able to bypass the oil pressure switch at the starter relay also.
Could also be bad wiring to the oil pressure switch.
Also check the Inertia switch and all of the fuses.







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[subford]

I case you only have one fuel tank this would be the wiring.



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[subford]

Your leaking part:



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[Bill Gail]

X2 on first addressing the fuel leak .

You mention it's carbureted , old ethenol fuel is it's worst enemy . The old fuel will plug the Jets , also coat the fuel bowl and needle valve with a shellac and deterates rubber components like the accelerator pump diaphragm.

Pull the air cleaner and while looking in the carb Venturi , manually work the throttle linkage to see if the accelerator pump is working. You should see fuel being squirted on every linkage pump. If you don't see any fuel , the engine won't accelerate from an idle . It will lean out and stall , which sounds similar to your situation .

An internal combustion engine needs 3 things to run , air , spark and fuel . Sounds like you have two of the three .

Might be time for a carburator rebuild.

[Pastornator]

Typically, vacuum leaks cause rough idle, but get better when the throttle is opened because the engine produces less vacuum at wide open throttle than at idle. Fuel leaks or weak pressure is the opposite, adding throttle makes it worse.

But, if your vacuum leak has a connection to ignition advance timing in the distributor (you should have a vacuum line between the manifold and the ignition advance port on the distributor) then you could be seeing a timing related issue.

Quick dirty test for leaking vacuum lines is using small (SMALL) short bursts of starting fluid around vacuum lines and fittings. If the engine revs up you've found a leak. Don't just go spraying all over the place unless you really like having big fireballs! Just a tap on the can will do it then let it air out.

As others have said already, the new ethanol fuels are huge trouble for earlier engines. That fuel turns to gummy bears inside all the fuel passages. It could be clogging your jets, your carb floats, etc. Seafoam seems to help - read label instructions. You may or may not need a carb rebuild. That's where most people start, but an engine will run with someone pouring gas from a cup down the hole in the carb, so rebuilding the carb is the last thing not the first unless you do see gas leaking from gaskets that have dried out.

[THenne1713]

1) PULL PCV AND CHECK IT AND HOSE, and/ or any other vacuum lines; screw in device on front of carb (sounds like) possibly a fuel filter? 2) Maybe missing/ damaged a rubber o-ring causing the leak. 3) Suggest you STUDY the fitting closely, and/ or consult a parts store clerk with part-in-hand?

[oddradiation]

Originally Posted by subford

Sounds like a common oil pressure problem.
Bypass the oil pressure switch and see if it runs OK.
You should be able to bypass the oil pressure switch at the starter relay also.
Could also be bad wiring to the oil pressure switch.
Also check the Inertia switch and all of the fuses.







/

Hello so after talking to my dad more he actually told me he had a friend who is a mechanic over one day and they looked at it for a bit. Apparently he had a e350 van and they ended up checking the oil pressure switch and checked it by jumping the terminals. Apparently made no difference to the issue.

I will check the inertia switch when I get a chance wasn't able to today at all and Tommorow it will be snowing so definitely won't get a chance to Tommorow possibly even the next day.

Thanks for all the help though it is very much appreciated. I'm thinking it's most likley a large vacuum leak or faulty wiring.

[oddradiation]

Also that's not the leaking part. That's the fuel sending unit correct? After reading the repair manual I believe it's a pre carb fuel filter. My dad threw me off because he somehow doesn't know what the part is called and swears it's not a fuel filter saying it has a diaphragm in it

But the book says it is one and shows a pic of it and I don't know what on earth else it could be on the old part I didn't see any diaphragm. Either way will need to replace that as I think it was tightened too tightly and messed the threads up.

[oddradiation]

I did use carb cleaner to check for a leak and it seemed to keep it from dying whenever it would start to stall when I sprayed it on the right side,(passenger) of the carb around where it met up with the manifold. So I am thinking it's probably a large vacuum leak either in the manifold gasket or the carb gasket.

Typically it won't start right away if I'm just cranking even when warmed up it will require me to give it a decent amount of gas. Not sure why I didn't put this together until right now lmao. So I'm thinking the gas from mashing the pedal to get it started is in excess allowing it to run until it burns it off and is now running on what the normal amount would be which ends up being too lean with all the extra air coming in in metered.

What do you think?

[subford]

I think I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see if you only have fuel pressure while cranking.
Did you put power on the bypass wire at the starter relay (solenoid)?