This is the turning diameter versus wheelbase versus GVWR versus wheel size graphic I mentioned above. We have the highlighted one, of course.
If both the 22.5" wheel and 242" wheelbase chassis for the 22,000 GVWR and the 24,000 - 26,000 GVWR had the same wheel cut I would expect the turning diameter to be the same.
Yet the 24,000 - 26,0000 GVWR turning diameter is 5.2' less.
Even the 24,000 - 26,0000 GVWR on the 252" wheelbase turns 2.5' tighter than ours.
This seems to reinforce my memory that the wheel cut on all newer F-53 chassis is 50 degrees except for the 22,000 GVWR on 22.5" wheels which is 42 degrees.
FWIW,
Ray
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2020 Forest River Georgetown GT5 34H5
2020 Equinox Premier AWD 2.0L/9-speed
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We have a Safari Trek on a '97 Chevy P30 independent front suspension that we bought used with 69k miles. It had Koni gold shocks on it. We took our first trip and were disheartened by the rough ride. I do not know how long the Konis were on.
I replaced them with KYB Gas a Just shocks. When removing the Konis I was surprised at the low amount of resistance in three of the shocks. The fourth, a rear, was completely blown out, no resistance in either direction. I do not know if these shocks were designed for lower damping or they were just worn out. If worn out, spending upwards of a grand on shocks that expire that soon was a non-starter as well as if they come this way new.
O
what I do know our next trip with the KYB shocks on some of the same roads was like riding in a new car, splendid bounce and bump control. Bonus, only about $200 for all four, just a bit more than one Koni. 15k miles on them and they still perform well. We'll see how they do long term. YMMV, just my two centavos.
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1998 Safari Trek 2480, 7.4 Vortec, 118k miles
'15 Kawasaki Versys650LT, well farkled, 104k miles
Mid Flowriduh
To the OP, this post has some Ford docs for the 2012 F-53. While I don't see "wheel cut" it does appear that the "specs" one shows the same turning diameters as I posted above.
When removing the Konis I was surprised at the low amount of resistance in three of the shocks. The fourth, a rear, was completely blown out, no resistance in either direction. I do not know if these shocks were designed for lower damping or they were just worn out. If worn out, spending upwards of a grand on shocks that expire that soon was a non-starter as well as if they come this way new.
The Koni FSDs are unlike regular shocks you may be familiar with. They do not come new "banded" to partially compress the shock for installation. They are not pressurized.
When mine were new I could extend or compress them by hand with some resistance in each direction. People unfamiliar with how the FSDs work think they are broken but they are not. It sounds like you may have had one bad shock, the one with zero resistance.
Quote:
We have a Safari Trek on a '97 Chevy P30 independent front suspension that we bought used with 69k miles. ... I do not know how long the Konis were on.
... If worn out, spending upwards of a grand on shocks that expire that soon was a non-starter as well as if they come this way new.
I'm unsure what you meant by "expire that soon" since you wrote you do not know when they were installed. Also, your chassis has IFS and the F-53 does not. That's a big difference in itself as well as the whole "F-53 vs. Workhorse" difference.
On my 2019 F-53 chassis we had OEM Sachs shocks (pronounced "Sucks") and I replaced them at 800 miles on the odometer. We're now over 12,000 miles and they still work great.
With the OEM shocks I would see sway of 20 to 22 degrees as measured with a digital inclinometer on the floor at the passenger seat during a long, sweeping turn on an exit ramp or from a stop and doing a 90-degree turn. We did a test drive on the way to the truck shop and that's where I measured that. Immediately after we left the truck shop we did the same test route at the same speeds and the maximum sway was now 10 -12 degrees.
We have a Garmin RV 785 GPS with a built-in dashcam. The unit "warbles" when it thinks you may have been in an accident and saves 1.5 minutes of video before and after the event. With the OEM shocks it went off on bridge joints and some roads. There was one section of local road (25 MPH) that always set it off. After the FSDs were installed that section of road felt like all others. More importantly, the motorhome no longer sounds or feels like it's coming apart on some roads and on bridge joints.
After installing the FSDs we've only heard the "warble" once in 2.5 years and 11,000 miles. I actually checked to assure the function was still turned on and it was.
I've never heard of anyone installing Koni FSDs on the Workhorse chassis before but I see they do make them. Interesting.
Ray
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2020 Forest River Georgetown GT5 34H5
2020 Equinox Premier AWD 2.0L/9-speed
Sorry to drag up a month old thread, but does anyone have part numbers for what steering stabilizer does work on the F53 with a 50 degree wheel cut?
Every part I can find seems to state that the brackets don't work on my 2011 F53, which according to the charts in this thread would have the 50 degree setup.
My 2011 Monaco Monarch does not have a factory stabilizer and I would like to add one.
Sorry to drag up a month old thread, but does anyone have part numbers for what steering stabilizer does work on the F53 with a 50 degree wheel cut?
Every part I can find seems to state that the brackets don't work on my 2011 F53, which according to the charts in this thread would have the 50 degree setup.
My 2011 Monaco Monarch does not have a factory stabilizer and I would like to add one.
Every current production F-53 has a 50-degree wheel cut except for one, the 22,000 GVWR chassis with 22.5" wheels. That one has a 42-degree wheel cut but if the 22,000 GVWR chassis has 19.5" wheels, it, too, has a 50-degree wheel cut.
It's been that way for several years. May I ask where you're reading differently with regard to steering stabilizers?
Ray
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2020 Forest River Georgetown GT5 34H5
2020 Equinox Premier AWD 2.0L/9-speed
I have a 2011 Canyon Star 3920 39.5 Foot Toy Hauler. My shocks seem to be worn as I am getting excessive sway on the highway. After looking at YouTube videos it appears that new Bilstein shocks and a steering damper, plus moving the bolts for the control arm and sway bar to the rear holes should make a huge difference.
I see from another iRV2 blog that the 2011 F53 steering angle should be 42 degrees so if this is true the Bilstein stabilizer bracket kit part # B4-KT1-Z326A00 should work ok unless mine happens to be a 2011 model with 50 degree wheel cut design.
The recommended Bilstein shocks are (Front) 24-234511 and (Rear) 24-234528
The recommended stabilizer is 24-245975, and bracket kit is B4-KT1-Z326A00.
I have two questions:
1. can anyone confirm that the 2011 F53 chassis used for the Canyon Star is 42 degrees and if not how I would determine my wheel cut? and
2. Has anyone else installed these front and rear shocks and a stabilizer and how did it work out?
I plan to do this myself in the Spring and would appreciate any insight or comments.
Thanks
Dave
There seems to be conflicting info out there regarding wheel cut. Is there a chart out there that could clarify? I have a 2011 Canyon Star 3920 toy hauler with a Ford F53 26,000 lb chassis with 22.5 tires, and a 260 inch wheelbase. How do I determine the wheel cut? The Bilstein stabilizer bracket info says that for some reason it does not work with a 50 degree cut. From what was posted in threads here I thought mine would be a 42 degree cut. Can anyone please offer some insight on whether mine would be 42 or 50 degrees?
Newmar Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: St. Augustine Fl
Posts: 906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmoyer1
Sorry to drag up a month old thread, but does anyone have part numbers for what steering stabilizer does work on the F53 with a 50 degree wheel cut?
Every part I can find seems to state that the brackets don't work on my 2011 F53, which according to the charts in this thread would have the 50 degree setup.
My 2011 Monaco Monarch does not have a factory stabilizer and I would like to add one.
Thanks!
Contact Brazel's Ultra RV, and they can give you the correct one for your application
Every current production F-53 has a 50-degree wheel cut except for one, the 22,000 GVWR chassis with 22.5" wheels. That one has a 42-degree wheel cut but if the 22,000 GVWR chassis has 19.5" wheels, it, too, has a 50-degree wheel cut.
It's been that way for several years. May I ask where you're reading differently with regard to steering stabilizers?
Ray
Maybe I'm just not understanding what the websites are saying regarding the mounting brackets. I've looked into the Bilstein and Roadmaster brackets/stabilizers and this is the wording that I am finding:
"For vehicles without OE steering stabilizer mounting brackets
Except 2008-2011 models with 50 degree wheel cut design"
While I don't have a factory stabilizer or brackets, I do have a 2011 F53 chassis. The description leads to be believe that it won't work on my motorhome.
What I don't understand is why Essex the Canadian distributor for Bilstein and the installation instructions make no mention of wheel cut limitations. However the supplier Parts Engine has included the disclaimer regarding 50 degree wheel cut in their description. Can anyone shed some light on why it would be an issue?
In February we took delivery of a new THOR Windsport 35M. We had the dealer install Tyron bands. I had a local axle and frame shop install the following:
Roadmaster Rear Auxiliary Sway Bar
SuperSteer® SS401 Rear Trac Bar
Safe-T-Plus Steering Control
Koni FSD Shocks
SuperSteer® SS404RR Radius Rods
The ride is much smoother with the new shocks, there is no more sway nor is there any tail wag.
The Tyron and Safe-T-Plus are safety upgrades, the shocks are suspension upgrades, and the remainder are handling upgrades.
The unit is still a large box on six wheels, so when a large tractor-trailer passes me, I feel the wall of air but I don't have the sway or tail wag that I did prior to the upgrades.
I bought the Tyron and Safe-T-Plus under the Law of Inverse Preparedness, whereby the more prepared one is for something, the less likely it is to happen. I hope I never need the benefits they bring
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