Community Forums

RELHUB · 01-12-2021, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikes2000

My wife and I in June 2020 purchased a 2021 HR Vacationer 35K.
This is equipped with the new Ford 7.3 gas engine.
We purchased it in Florida, and drove it home to Illinois. 5 miles from the dealer the alternator went out. Delaying our return by 3 days.
We had a trip planned for 2 wks after we got home. A couple of days before we were to leave, I drove about 5 miles to fuel the coach. While driving there my check engine light started flashing, the motor ran rough and seemed to backfire slightly. I took it to my local Ford dealer. I was told it needed a spark module and spark plug wire. The parts were on back order, but we had them in 3 days (from another dealer). Before we were able to take our trip it happened again. And again 2 more times. After some searching there seems to be a design flaw causing the plug wires to get burned by the exhaust. Its October now, and we're still waiting for parts. A Florida lemon law case has been filed. Has anyone else had a problem with this engine?

So sorry to hear about these problems. I warn all of my Friends and family.
Never ever purchase a first year run of any new Motor or Trans.

They want the owners of these new models to test them and see what fails. Lets hope they can fix it quickly but I am reading people have been waiting 4 months or more to get back on the road. Some have lost the entire camping season waiting for the MH to get fixed.

I can't imagine making monthly payments on a MH you can't use.
It is bad enough I don't use the MH much in the winter.
Now to be told you can't use it in the spring because of engine issues.

D20 · 02-01-2021, 07:49 AM

It looks like supply is finally starting to catch up with demand on the new spark plug wires WR6167. The MSRP just dropped from $99 to $69. Available from dealers for less:

lrsses · 02-07-2021, 06:19 AM

Of all the post on the 7.3 and reading about cost of the new Ford Chassis at a lower price point compared to the V10. Ford is growing problems the Workhorse
had with the 8,1 heat. Purchased a 2004 National Sea Breeze with about 86000 in 2016 found all kinds of issues caused by heat. Knock Sensor wires burned replaced them and the sensor added head sleeve from Summit Racing problem solved no more codes. Replaced Plugs order from Ultra RV with new plug wires add the heat shied cost small to fix issue. The heat sleeve from Summit is cheap and you can cut to length.
As I said read all the post as we were looking at a new RV with the 7.3 and watched a lot of videos still not sold on the 7.3 as a yow vehicle for a fifth wheel or a New RV. Guess for now now my 8.1 will keep rolling drove to Southern California Sept 2020 and back no problems lots of gas pulling a Jeep Gladiator new trip next year North West and back to Louisiana. I'II keep check back to see how the new 7.3 is doing. For got now 103867 miles.

Hermes2 · 02-09-2021, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikes2000

My wife and I in June 2020 purchased a 2021 HR Vacationer 35K.
This is equipped with the new Ford 7.3 gas engine.
We purchased it in Florida, and drove it home to Illinois. 5 miles from the dealer the alternator went out. Delaying our return by 3 days.
We had a trip planned for 2 wks after we got home. A couple of days before we were to leave, I drove about 5 miles to fuel the coach. While driving there my check engine light started flashing, the motor ran rough and seemed to backfire slightly. I took it to my local Ford dealer. I was told it needed a spark module and spark plug wire. The parts were on back order, but we had them in 3 days (from another dealer). Before we were able to take our trip it happened again. And again 2 more times. After some searching there seems to be a design flaw causing the plug wires to get burned by the exhaust. Its October now, and we're still waiting for parts. A Florida lemon law case has been filed. Has anyone else had a problem with this engine?

Just want to thank you for posting this information (and thanks to all of the other responders who've provided helpful insights). We've got a new Winnebago Adventurer 29B coming in this March on this new chassis. I'll be looking it over closely to be sure that the engine baffle is cut to improve air flow as the TSB directs.

Teething is expected... but I don't want it happening while we're on our 6,000 mile trip out west this summer.

Mikes2000 · 02-10-2021, 07:59 AM

How did the wire shields work for you?

NXR · 02-10-2021, 09:16 AM

The spark wire issue is well-documented and was a manufacturing defect at the plant in Mexico. Ford has released a new part number and new wires. In addition, inadequate air flow was part of the problem so Ford's bulletin also calls for cutting a baffle.

Please see the attached bulletin.

Ray

D20 · 04-13-2021, 09:42 PM

It looks like supply has finally caught up with demand. MSRP is now down to $14.22.

Mikes2000 · 04-14-2021, 06:59 AM

I started this thread last year. I'm still waiting for replacement wires and plugs. As I mentioned before. I have been making do with wire wraps to protect from heat build up.

AlwaysDream · 04-15-2021, 06:49 PM

Which is the correct single wire Fort Part Number:
Is it LC3Z-12286-A $15.60
https://www.fordpartscatalog.com/oem...ire-lc3z12286a
Or is it WR-6167- $9.38
https://www.fordpartscatalog.com/oem...gnition-wr6167

Is the WR-6167- an improved or defect free version?

I have a F53 Chassis, GVWR 18,000 lb (the small one) with 6,500 miles and no check engine light and no loss of power. The Ford Service Center said there is a TSB, not a recall, the the TSB will only be installed IF the Check Engine Light is ON and certain engine codes are displayed free of charge. Is this true? I have to wait till I break down on I-10 in the middle of the desert before Ford will step up and fix this no charge?

I ripped off the baffle with an box cutter per the TSB. I examined the wires which are in view though the wheel wells and they look OK, and smelled OK.
and will buy 4 wires and carry them with me. I just want to buy the correct/improved spark plug wires.

Thanks

D20 · 04-15-2021, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlwaysDream

Which is the correct single wire Fort Part Number:
Is it LC3Z-12286-A $15.60
https://www.fordpartscatalog.com/oem...ire-lc3z12286a
Or is it WR-6167- $9.38
https://www.fordpartscatalog.com/oem...gnition-wr6167

Is the WR-6167- an improved or defect free version?

I have a F53 Chassis, GVWR 18,000 lb (the small one) with 6,500 miles and no check engine light and no loss of power. The Ford Service Center said there is a TSB, not a recall, the the TSB will only be installed IF the Check Engine Light is ON and certain engine codes are displayed free of charge. Is this true? I have to wait till I break down on I-10 in the middle of the desert before Ford will step up and fix this no charge?

I ripped off the baffle with an box cutter per the TSB. I examined the wires which are in view though the wheel wells and they look OK, and smelled OK.
and will buy 4 wires and carry them with me. I just want to buy the correct/improved spark plug wires.

Thanks

As per the TSB, LC3Z-12286-C (WR6167) is the latest and greatest.

Mikes2000 · 04-16-2021, 07:22 AM

I don't have the part number. Your dealer should be able to advise you.
I don't believe this TSB is intended for all motorhome chassis. I think its less the Ford design, and more the rv mfg. not designing proper air flow to the engine compartment. If you modified the baffle. You should be fine. If you want to further safeguard yourself. Invest in the heat resistant wire wraps. Inexpensive and easy to install.
Good luck.

mack73 · 04-16-2021, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikes2000

I don't have the part number. Your dealer should be able to advise you.
I don't believe this TSB is intended for all motorhome chassis. I think its less the Ford design, and more the rv mfg. not designing proper air flow to the engine compartment. If you modified the baffle. You should be fine. If you want to further safeguard yourself. Invest in the heat resistant wire wraps. Inexpensive and easy to install.
Good luck.

I don't agree. They are failing on the superduty trucks too which are all Ford's design. Ford would not go through the effort of producing another part if it wasn't necessary.

The airflow around the engine in the F53 is mostly Ford's to design (radiator size, baffle around bulkhead, etc. Sure the motorhome manufacture could make the space around the top of the engine a little tighter, but with the v8 physically being smaller than the v10 I think that is a stretch. If anything, there is probably more space around it than in the past.

I bought a full set of plugs now and will change them. I rather be proactive than to have them fail in the middle of no where...

I would suggest ordering it off of part number LC3Z-12286-C

mack73 · 05-12-2021, 10:35 PM

I replaced my sparkplug wires today on mine. My F53 22k chassis was made in October so it had the additional cut out around the radiator but before the new sparkplug wires were available. I decided to be proactive and just change them myself so I can do it on my own time in my driveway instead of mid-trip on the freeway shoulder. Replacement was super easy from the bottom. Lifted the front on the jacks and reached over the wheel/frame. Took maybe 15 minutes.

I took some pictures of the 2 parts. It is very obvious if you have the old vs new. So if you are in the window of being unsure which part you have and quick look at the engine should tell you for sure.

The insulation and heat shielding around the wire at the sparkplug end is much larger than the original plug. Also, there is a spring in the end that sticks out all the way, presumably to ensure the headshield has an air gap between it and the boot

New part is 1" at the heat shield. Old is 1/2"

D20 · 05-13-2021, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mack73

I replaced my sparkplug wires today on mine. My F53 22k chassis was made in October so it had the additional cut out around the radiator but before the new sparkplug wires were available. I decided to be proactive and just change them myself so I can do it on my own time in my driveway instead of mid-trip on the freeway shoulder. Replacement was super easy from the bottom. Lifted the front on the jacks and reached over the wheel/frame. Took maybe 15 minutes.

I took some pictures of the 2 parts. It is very obvious if you have the old vs new. So if you are in the window of being unsure which part you have and quick look at the engine should tell you for sure.

The insulation and heat shielding around the wire at the sparkplug end is much larger than the original plug. Also, there is a spring in the end that sticks out all the way, presumably to ensure the headshield has an air gap between it and the boot

New part is 1" at the heat shield. Old is 1/2"

Thanks for the photos. I would definitely change them out if I had the old ones. I am pretty sure I have the new ones already, but I am going to double check.