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winnie32v · 11-02-2014, 04:00 AM

2001 Winnebago Adventurer 32V on a Ford Chassis, V-10, 47,000 mi.
Just drove from Pa. to Fla. and was getting the P0300 code as well as some specific cylinder codes (P0301, 02, 06, 10, etc.).
Unit seems to run OK on the flat I-95 at 60 mph, but when I try to accelerate, I begin to feel the 'chatter' of misfire. This also occurs when I'm going slow,,,20 mph...coasting to a red light and when I give it a little throttle to maintain speed, I get the chatter again????

Unit idles very smooth, starts immediately with touch of key, and begins to accelerate OK, Like when I am accessing the interstate from an exit, then as the rpm's increase, the chatter begins and I have to let off of the accelerator and try to gain speed slowly. Also, when I force a downshift, it seems to run ok for a few seconds, then it goes into the chatter mode again and I have to 'nurse' it to gain speed.

I just put in a new fuel filter before my trip (do this every year).

I am thinking something external to the engine, maybe fuel pump, egr, vacuum leak.......???

I am parked now at my winter site and am thinking of going to the local Ford garage and see if they could find the problem with a computed hook-up.

Please advise of anything you think that I could do on my own.
ALSO, what about the Ford Garage hooking up their computer....any value to that???? Are their diagnostics that good that they could nail this quickly???

Please advise.

Thanks for your time and consideration.
Must have this solved pretty quickly, as you may have assumed.

Mark Kovalsky · 11-02-2014, 01:42 PM

Replace all 10 coils, boots, and spark plugs. You could troubleshoot and find the bad ones, but the ones that are good now will be bad soon.

Sweetbriar · 11-02-2014, 06:42 PM

I agree with Mark, replace the coil packs but would wait on the spark plugs. Those should be good for 100K miles. If you plan to do the plugs read up on the proper procedure to limit damage to the plug threads.

Ford, or just about any mechanic, is going to charge you to read the codes you already know. The better readers they have can dig a bit deeper into the various computers than what the average shade tree mechanic might have. Change the coil packs, then plugs. If the problem is still present then try professional assistance.

Arch Hoagland · 11-02-2014, 07:16 PM

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Have you cleaned your MAF sensor yet?

At 13 years I think I'd replace plugs and wires along with cleaning the MAF and installing a new air filter.

I'd wait on the coils to see if the other items helped as coils are expensive.

mrt_1111 · 11-02-2014, 07:32 PM

I believe more testing would be in order. I would start by cleaning the maf sensor, checking the fuel pump pressure, checking O2 sensors, looking at the fuel injectors on a oscope, checking egr valve, etc... Sounds like at lot but very easy to do.

Mark Kovalsky · 11-02-2014, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweetbriar

I agree with Mark, replace the coil packs but would wait on the spark plugs. Those should be good for 100K miles. If you plan to do the plugs read up on the proper procedure to limit damage to the plug threads.

You're thinking of the 5.4L 4V engine in the 2004-2008 F-150. There is no special procedure to remove the plugs in a V10.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

Have you cleaned your MAF sensor yet?

Not a bad thing to do, but won't cause this problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

At 13 years I think I'd replace plugs and wires along with cleaning the MAF and installing a new air filter.

Wires? What wires? There are no spark plug wires on a 2001 V10.

The coils are the problem. I've fixed dozens of these with these exact symptoms.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

I'd wait on the coils to see if the other items helped as coils are expensive.

Remove all the coils, change the spark plugs, reinstall the bad coils, and still have the same problem. Guaranteed. The coils have to be removed the replace the spark plugs. I only recommended changing the spark plugs because 90% of the labor is already done while changing the coils.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrt_1111

I believe more testing would be in order. I would start by cleaning the maf sensor, checking the fuel pump pressure, checking O2 sensors, looking at the fuel injectors on a oscope, checking egr valve, etc... Sounds like at lot but very easy to do.

Sounds like a lot of work to prove that it is the coils. It's a well documented problem on the V10.

chboone · 11-03-2014, 12:28 AM

Agree with changing coils and plugs. I bought mine from Jags.com, Accel super coil set of 8, plus 2. If you change the plugs torque them to spec, a loose plug will destroy the threads in the head. Over tighten you could strip the threads.

Chuck

winnie32v · 11-03-2014, 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chboone

Agree with changing coils and plugs. I bought mine from Jags.com, Accel super coil set of 8, plus 2. If you change the plugs torque them to spec, a loose plug will destroy the threads in the head. Over tighten you could strip the threads.

Chuck

Thank You all.
I can handle the coil swap here in Fla. and take care of anything else when I get back to Pa.
NOW, Could you tell me which Accel coil I should get....I mean is there a specific part number that I should order?
If possible, could you send a link to the correct ones?

It seems that these are a lot cheaper than the Motorcraft ones and they seem to have the approval of you actual users.

AND, for those who have done this, do I need anything else when I do this swap?? (like clips or the such). I expect that I just remove and replace. I am a pretty good lay mechanic and enjoy fixing things myself.
Please advise if you have any helpful hints.

Thanks again, it is a real comfort when members of this forum come together to help another.
I have not been sleeping well because of my 'broken' motorhome. The stress level has just gone way down. You all can appreciate the spot that I'm in.

Look forward for the information to order all 10 coils. This will be done immediately when I get the info.

Paul

Mark Kovalsky · 11-03-2014, 06:46 AM

When the original coils started to fail on my V10 I replaced them with Accel coils. When two of them failed the next week I replaced the Accels with coils from Standard Products. They make the Motorcraft coils. They worked fine for the next 25,000 miles before I sold the truck.

It is as simple as removing the electrical connector on top, remove the hold down bolt, and pull the coil out. Put a dab of dielectric grease on the spark plug end of the boot on the new coil, push it in place, install the hold down bolt and electrical connector. That's all there is to it.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-DG5...ype=automotive

http://www.amazon.com/Accel-140032-C...rds=accel+coil

chboone · 11-03-2014, 11:17 AM

These are the coils I bought. I can't vouch for the quality of the Accel coils. I only have a little over 2000 miles on mine with no problems yet. A friend bought the same set for his 5.4 and has over 20,000 miles on them with no failures. As Mark posted he did experience failures. Which ever coils you go with make sure you put a small dab of Di-electric grease inside the boot as Mark mentioned. When I pulled the original coils a couple of the boots pulled off the coil and stayed on the plug. Not a problem just thought I would mention it.

Accel 140032 Accel Super Coil Ignition Coils for 1997-Up Ford V6/V8 - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

Accel 140032-8 Accel Super Coil Ignition Coils for 1997-Up Ford V6/V8 - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

Chuck

chboone · 11-03-2014, 11:30 AM

Here is a discussion about replacing the plugs in the 2V V10. Notice jamesxxx951 responds, he was a Ford Master Tech at a dealer until he recently changed jobs. I don't doubt Mark's knowledge on the subject, just offering additional input.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/spark...ut-176381.html

Chuck

spyderRV · 11-03-2014, 11:45 AM

Hello all, newbee here. I have been following this thread and it's got me wondering if I have a coil issue. I have a 1999 with 43xxx miles on it. There are no engine codes. What it does is there is a pronounced weak cylinder vibration off idle slight throttle. There is also a vibration which it rolls through between 2500 and 3000 rpm in overdrive. The long term fuel trim is around +20 percent

, both banks. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

SteveL1948 · 11-03-2014, 05:37 PM

I agree with changing the coils. Replaced 3 different ones on my 2003 Class A with the V10 and it cured my misfire and vibration. Got mine off ebay for 7 dollars each and they have been fine for a year now. My scanguage 2 actually showed me what cylinders were misfiring by code. Good luck

chboone · 11-03-2014, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyderRV

Hello all, newbee here. I have been following this thread and it's got me wondering if I have a coil issue. I have a 1999 with 43xxx miles on it. There are no engine codes. What it does is there is a pronounced weak cylinder vibration off idle slight throttle. There is also a vibration which it rolls through between 2500 and 3000 rpm in overdrive. The long term fuel trim is around +20 percent

, both banks. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Off hand I would say you may have some bad coils. You can take it to Ford and pay them to check it, or save that money and apply to a set of coils. If your able to do the work, the coils are not that hard to change.

Chuck