Help repairing my cruise control 2001 E350 Ford

[kwftlaud]

Hello all
I am tiring to fix my cruise control.
I'm really stumped.

I have a very good instructions to repair it but I have a resistance that is out of spec and I can't figure out how to fix it.
The circuit in question is the brake light.
I have a new peddle and master cylinder switch.
Here is the problem:

I am suppose to see less than 20 ohm on pins 4 and ground.
I am reading 50 ohms.
The way this is suppose to work I think is that 12 volts go out of the pedal switch and energies the brake lights. This does in fact work.
But the cruise control senses a ground circuit thru light filaments. So, if one burns out the cruise won't Engauge. This I suppose is why the reedling has to be less than 20 ohms.

One would think that maybe its a bad ground or bad wire. I ran a ground from the battery to the rear brake lights: no change.
Measured at the pedal switch i see the 50 ohms.
I don't think I can just run a new wire back to it as I would think that the power needs to go thru the turn signals and maybe the hazard lights too.
So, I'm stuck.

1 have 2 questions:
Anyone know the path of the wire for the pedal switch to the rear lights?
Any one know if the 50 ohm reading is OK?
I ordered a used servo but until it arrives I'm trying to fix it.

Compounding this is that I don't think my 2001 has a indicator on the dash, so I can't perform the self test.

Any ideas?

Thanks Kip

[RVfixit]

So sorry to hear about your cruise control issues. Lets see if we can get this fixed for you.

I always start out simple. First, when you step on the brake pedal, do the brake lights work? If so, its probably not the pedal switch.

I want to make sure you have factory cruise control. let me know if your steering wheel buttons look like this:



If they do, its most likely factory cruise control. When you have the truck running and you push the cruise control on button on the left side of the steering wheel, do you see a symbol in the dash that looks like this:



If so, let me know and we will move onto the next steps. Thanks

[kwftlaud]

I don't think my year ( 2001 ) has a cruise control light on the dash

Its a factory cruise control, buttons on the steering wheel.

I just ordered new buttons. I don't think my on button is working correctly.


I don't know how a clock spring works. It appears mine is OK as I get predicted response on all of the buttons except for the on button.
And, the horn works.
So I think the clock spring is ok

Kip

[PS89]

I don't think my year ( 2001 ) has a cruise control light on the dash

Correct. It does not.

And, the horn works.
So I think the clock spring is ok

Not necessarily. The speed control uses some of and some different conductors through the clockspring as does the horn.

am suppose to see less than 20 ohm on pins 4 and ground.
I am reading 50 ohms.
The way this is suppose to work I think is that 12 volts go out of the pedal switch and energies the brake lights. This does in fact work.
But the cruise control senses a ground circuit thru light filaments.

Per factory schematic, it only uses the third brake light and the coil of the "Brake Switch Relay" (located in the fuse box under the hood) to pull down the voltage on pin 4 of the speed control servo module. Has some installed a LED in there in place of a common incandescent bulb? If so, swap that back and see if your issue has been fixed.

If you're still out of luck... "I have a very good instructions to repair it" Post the instructions so it can be seen if they're correct for your vehicle or not. Lots of wrong crap out there on the internet....

[RVfixit]

What was the original problem with the cruise control? Does it not work at all? Has it ever worked?

I have attached a document from the owners manual for your vehicle for your reference.


2001 E350 Cruie control 1.pdf

Your vehicles cruise control uses a cruise control module located at or near the master cylinder. It looks something like this:


There is a cable that come out of that unit and connects to your throttle body and is what controls the throttle when activated. These connect with a plastic clip. Make sure it is still connected.

Next, with the key in the run position but not started, push the on button to your cruise control. You should hear the module engage. If you hear nothing, then you need to diagnose the module next.

[kwftlaud]

My 2002 Fourwinds 23A does not have a 3rd brake light, just red marker lights that go across the top of it ( class C )

I think there might be a problem with the on switch so I am going to replace that next.

But I'm intrigued.
The brake pedal energizes a relay? Which one is it? I'll replace that just to be sure. I bet its in the engine compartment . I just today found out that the horn relay is bad and ordered a new one. I must be around that one.
The brake lights work fine.


thanks

[kwftlaud]

Success !!!!
The cruise is working!!

Turns out it was the control switch. I ordered one from Amazon for $30

A few points:

Knowing that the most likely culprit was the master cylinder and brake pedal switched I immediately changed those ( $26 and $10 ) .
No luck
I then found a pretty through testing procedure that took me through a step by step measuring resistance and voltages on various pins on the harness that connects to the cruise control servo.
I had a issue with one resistance being off spec ( 49 ohms instead of spec of 20 ohms or less ) and I thought for sure it was a wiring issue going to the rear brake lights. I spent 3 days chasing that down with no luck

I also had a horn issue that I deduced was a bad horn relay ( I could see by a resistance measurement that the horn button did work thru the clock spring )
Running thru this 12 step instruction it was pretty evident that the "On" switch was not working as it should so I ordered that when I ordered a new horn relay.
I installed the new control switches and I still had a problem. No voltage output from the ON switch. The instructions then sent me to the horn circuit IF the ON switch had no power.... Well this stumped me as on my old switch I did get 7 volts but not the 12 volts I needed.
Then it occurred to me I had taken the horn relay out to get the part number.
I put the old one back into the circuit and Yippie,,,,,, if all worked .

I then ran the self test ( turn on key holding the off button, and within a second hit ON, Resume ,coast ,set ) and the servo kicked on and moved the gas pedal. It was working !!

Who would have thought the on button and the horn ( and horn relay ) are somehow tied together .

Now it all works horn and cruise.

As a side note I bought a used servo on ebay for $30. It was for a ford Taruse. It has the same electrical connection but not the same bracket. I would had to use my old bracket. No biggie. If you look for one for a ford E350 they are usually over $200 used. I saw a youtube video about using the Taruse so I ordered it in case I needed it.
I will post next the procedure I used to determine my problem.

Thanks for all the input.
My 2001 is purring like a kitten and everything is up and running, no dash warning lights no misfires (had 2 bad coils )
Kip

[kwftlaud]

A1
VERIFY THERE IS POWER TO SPEED CONTROL SERVO
Disconnect harness connector from the speed control servo (9C735).
Use Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter*105-00001*or equivalent to make the specified measurements at the harness connector.
Use Rotunda Terminal Adapter Kit No.*105-00025*to avoid connector terminal damage.
With the ignition switch
(11572) in RUN, measure voltage between Pin 7 (B+, Circuit 298) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
GO to «A3».
No
GO to «A2».

A2
CHECK MODULE GROUND CIRCUIT
With ignition switch
in OFF position, measure the resistance between Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901) and ground point on the chassis.
Is resistance less than 5 ohm?
Yes
GND is OK, power to Module may be open. Check Fuse E in Power Distribution Box and Circuit 298. TEST for normal operation. GO to «A3»
No
REPAIR open in ground Circuit 901. TEST for normal operation.

A3
CHECK FOR STUCK STOPLIGHT SWITCH
With no brakes applied, measure the voltage between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is the battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
Stoplight switch (13480) is stuck on. REPLACE stoplight switch.
No
Stoplight switch is not stuck on. GO to «A4».

A4
CHECK BRAKE/CLUTCH CIRCUIT
With the ignition switch
in OFF position, measure the resistance between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 20 ohms?
Yes
Brake input Circuit OK. GO to «A5».
No
Brake light bulbs blown or brake circuit open. SERVICE circuit including clutch pedal position switch (CPP) (11A152).

A5
CHECK DEACTIVATOR CIRCUIT (AT MODULE CONNECTOR)
With ignition switch
in OFF position, and with no brakes applied, measure the voltage between Pin 9 (deactivator, Circuit 307) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
GO to «A9».
No
No power from deactivator. GO to «A6».

A6
CHECK DEACTIVATOR SWITCH (AT SWITCH)
Make sure Step A5 has been done.
Remove body harness connector from deactivator switch. Measure the resistance between the two pins of the deactivator switch with no brakes applied.
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes
Deactivator switch OK. GO to «A7».
No
Deactivator switch defective. REPLACE switch. REPEAT Step «A5».

A7
VERIFY THERE IS POWER AT DEACTIVATOR HARNESS CONNECTOR
Measure voltage between Pin 1 (Circuit 10) of the deactivator switch harness connector and chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
Power at connector OK. GO to «A8».
No
SERVICE for blown fuse or open in deact circuit.

A8
CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT BETWEEN DEACTIVATOR SWITCH AND SERVO
Measure resistance from Pin 2 (Circuit 307) of deactivator switch and Pin 9 (DEACT) (Circuit 307) of service assembly of speed control servo.
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes
REPEAT Step «A5».
No
Open in wire harness
. SERVICE as required.

A9
CHECK FOR STUCK ON SWITCH
With no speed control actuator
switches depressed, measure the voltage between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
REPLACE switch.
No
ON switch not stuck. GO to «A10».

A10
CHECK ON SWITCH OPERATION
With ignition switch
in OFF position with steering wheel ON switch depressed, measure voltage between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
ON switch OK. GO to «A12».
No
ON switch not functioning. GO to «A11».

A11
CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT IN "ON" SWITCH GROUND
Make sure Step A10 has been done.
With horn depressed, measure voltage between Pin 6 (Circuit 848) and*
chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage (12V nom.)?
Yes
REPLACE ON switch.
No
Open circuit or fuse in horn relay
feed or open circuit in switch ground. SERVICE as required. REPEAT Step «A10».

A12
CHECK FOR STUCK COMMAND SWITCHES
With ignition switch
in OFF position and with no steering wheel switches depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848).
Is resistance greater than 3k ohms?Yes
No stuck switches. GO to «A13».
No
One of the command switches is stuck. REPLACE switch.

A13
CHECK SET/ACCEL SWITCH OPERATION
With ignition switch
in OFF position and with the SET/ACCEL switch depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848).
Is resistance approximately 680 ohms?
Yes
Switch is OK. GO to «A14».
No, less than 640 or greater than 720 ohms
Switch not functioning. REPLACE switch.

A14
VERIFY SPEED SIGNAL
Operate vehicle by raising the rear wheels. Set speed at 30 mph. Use an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage between Pin 3 (SPEED SIG, Circuit 679) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is voltage reading 4-5 volts?
Yes
Speed signal OK. GO to «A15».
No
SERVICE Programmable Speedometer/Odometer. GO to «Section 13-01A».

A15
CHECK FOR BROKEN OR BOUND ACTUATOR
CABLE
Remove speed control actuator
from speed control servo. Check for broken speed control actuator
by pulling on speed control actuator
and noting throttle movement.
Is speed control actuator
OK?
Yes
REPLACE speed control servo.
No
SERVICE




Fuse block shown below
Fuse/CB/Relay Ampere rating [A] Description
1 15 Cigarette lighter
2 20 Daytime running lamps (Canadian vehicles only), flash-to-pass
3 20 Horn
4 20 Body builder battery (+12) feed
5 15 Back-up lamps, blower relay coil, heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor
(HEGO)
6 10 Speed control
7 — Not used
8 — Not used
9 — Not used
10 — Not used
11 30 maxi Starter relay
coil
12 Diode Powertrain control module
13 20 Electronic engine control system, fuel pump relay
coil
14 60 maxi Ignition switch
feed
15 — Not used
16 50 Blower motor

17 60 maxi Headlamps, marker lamps, programmable speedometer/odometer module (PSOM)
18 20 maxi Fuel pump feed
19 — Not used
20 — Not used
21 — Not used
21 20 maxi Distributor puckup, powertrain control module, ignition coil
, thick film integrated ignition system (TFI)
Relay #1 Powertrain control module
Relay #2 Fuel pump relay

Relay #3 Horn relay

Relat #4 Blower motor
relay
WARNING:*Terminal and harness assignments for individual connectors will vary depending on vehicle equipment level, model, and market.


I used a two leg puller to pull the steering wheel. Two ways of doing things, the right way and the other way.


The 1997 and earlier models used slip rings with copper brushes as shown in the second photo. I believe clock springs were introduced in 1999 (unverified)

I used CRC electrical contact cleaner and a tooth brush to clean the old grease off the ring and brushes. After cleaning I recoated with dielectric grease. I used a Q-tip to reapply. Make sure there is no trace between the rings. The grease is a conductor.

Replacement parts are no longer available except on used eBay.
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