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Old 06-01-2021, 08:52 AM   #15
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SuperDad,

Just checked my socket drawer to check on sizes. The bolts on our 2013 chssis are 3/4" in diameter and 1-1/4" for all shock nuts.
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:51 AM   #16
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Superdad posted that question back in August. However, in the interest of future visitors to this thread, I had my 2013 stock shocks replaced with new Bilsteins a month ago. After reading and looking at the situation, I had a shop do the work.


#1, the front and rear shocks are different lengths. Don't buy 4 identical shocks.


#2 The nuts are torqued hella tight. ~260 ft/lbs See here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/sho...es-191955.html



Even the shop had to heat the nuts to get them off. I would not have been to achieve that torque out in the driveway.
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:53 AM   #17
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SuperDad,

I screwed up. The sockets are 1-1/8" not 1-1/4". I was standing up to high and mis read the socekt holder.
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Old 06-01-2021, 10:10 AM   #18
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Also, on my chassis, a 1 1/8" socket fits loosely, 1 1/16" is too small. Everything else on that chassis seems to be metric, so maybe a 28 mm socket, I think 27 mm would be too small.
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Old 06-01-2021, 10:36 AM   #19
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A lot of the info on here regarding shock behavior is dated.

It's very difficult to do the "jounce test" on any modern shock. They tend to fail in bump and rebound stays OK. So you push down and it comes back up with no jounce.

Many modern shocks (including bilstein) are digressively valved. This means at high frequency/low displacement there's very little damping. As body roll or high displacement comes into play at lower velocity the damping increases. This allows a stiff shock for good handling without the harshness associated with a stiff shock. It also allows the weight to transfer a bit before the suspension takes a set.

What this means is it's difficult for the duffer to see what's going on.

The bump failure tends to come from bottoming the shock (if there are no or inadequate bump rubbers in the suspension to prevent over-compression) and/or simply because all the heavy forces are in bump and not in rebound.

Wear is primarily in the shaft seal. The bellows keeps dirt off the shaft so the shaft seal doesn't wear.

My go-to test is to remove the shock and see if I can tell any difference between bump and rebound on the bench. On several shocks the rod has just fallen into the shock by gravity yet it was difficult to pull back out.

On a gas shock the rod should always force the shock to max length when disconnected (you will notice that the first bolt will be hard to remove and might require a floor jack to take the load off to remove it). If it is not forced to max length it is done.
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Old 06-01-2021, 01:52 PM   #20
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I'm looking at replacing mine soon. I looked and I have Bilsteins on there now. Do you think they were stock on a 2015 Vista 31KE?


SLOweather - why did you go with Bilsteins instead of Koni's?



[QUOTE=SLOweather;5774146]Superdad posted that question back in August. However, in the interest of future visitors to this thread, I had my 2013 stock shocks replaced with new Bilsteins a month ago. After reading and looking at the situation, I had a shop do the work.
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Old 06-01-2021, 02:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDad View Post
How long do RV shocks really last? I have a 2007 Itasca 35J on the Ford chassi that we just bought. It's has 44k on it and it sways alot and rides pretty harsh. It seems to have the factory Bilsteins yellow shocks on it.
I put Monroe Magnums from Rock Auto when I had an F53 Chassis. Less than $70 and man did I see a difference. It was a 2000 with 54,000 miles on it, so it was due.

Despite what anyone tells you shocks age just like other components even if not driven. There is a lot of rubber, oil, seals, and valves in them that just plain get old.

Everybody has there favorite, but I had a friend put $200 Koni's on and I drove it and couldn't tell the difference.
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Old 06-28-2021, 10:51 PM   #22
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Also check your swaybar brackets. I started noticing a lot of sway and my rear passenger swaybar bracket was cracked in half. So swaybar was doing nothing. Once fixed it works a lot better. Also you may notice a new and improved bracket that has extra brace pieces to beef it up. Get that one.
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Old 06-29-2021, 05:13 AM   #23
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[QUOTE=Kelm130;5774389]I'm looking at replacing mine soon. I looked and I have Bilsteins on there now. Do you think they were stock on a 2015 Vista 31KE?


SLOweather - why did you go with Bilsteins instead of Koni's?



Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOweather View Post
Superdad posted that question back in August. However, in the interest of future visitors to this thread, I had my 2013 stock shocks replaced with new Bilsteins a month ago. After reading and looking at the situation, I had a shop do the work.
I just put Koni FSD on mine. What a difference.
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Old 06-30-2021, 11:30 PM   #24
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My MH on the 2004 F53 chassis felt top heavy when I first bought it 6 years ago. I did the CHF and replaced the stock swaybar bushing with the blue ploy bushings. What a HUGE difference it made! Now, it feels rock solid. The shocks were the original Bilsteins that provided a very stiff ride. The mismatched concrete slabs, tarstrips and potholes gave me a very rough ride. I switched to the Koni FSD shocks all the way around and now have a much better ride - everywhere except on I-65 through Birmingham, AL and I-55 north of Memphis (a couple of the roughest sections I highway I've ever been on - shame on AL and AR for letting their highways deteriorate so badly).
In my book, the CHF and Koni FSD shocks are a must for the V-10 F53.
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Old 07-01-2021, 06:38 AM   #25
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Kelm130,

Our 2014 RV on the 18-K chassis came out with Bilsteins on the 2013 chassis. It's very possible yours came out with the same shock.

They (shock manufacturers) only list one size/number for all weight classes of the F-53 chassis. I've never understood that concept. I always thought shocks were custom fit based on the chassis weight they were trying to dampen.
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