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Old 10-10-2010, 11:17 PM   #1
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How to crank V10 without starting?

I need to crank the engine without letting it start. Is there a simple way to do this?

Thanks!


Bob
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Old 10-10-2010, 11:44 PM   #2
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Look for a fuse marked "ign" either under dash or out front.


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Old 10-11-2010, 08:21 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INSPECTORBOB View Post
I need to crank the engine without letting it start. Is there a simple way to do this?

Thanks!


Bob
Just curious, why do you need to crank your v10 without starting it?

Thanks
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:26 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Look for a fuse marked "ign" either under dash or out front.


Mike
He would do better to pull the fuse to the fuel injectors. No fuel = no start on cranking. I used to do some work in GM Test Engineering where we routinely put cars on Dynos and needed the drive train running without the engine actually firing.
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:24 PM   #5
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He would do better to pull the fuse to the fuel injectors. No fuel = no start on cranking. I used to do some work in GM Test Engineering where we routinely put cars on Dynos and needed the drive train running without the engine actually firing.
A good suggestion.Another way that may work for you is to hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank. Many injection computers understand that pedal floored means that the engine may be flooded and will not inject fuel.

That's the theory; in practice, maybe you have a floor mat the prevents you from sending the full throttle signal to the ECU. If it works, it's very convenient. Try it and let us know.
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Old 10-12-2010, 03:18 PM   #6
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I haven't had a chance to try any of the suggestions yet, but wanted to thank you for your responses.

The reason I want to do this is to try to measure the serpentine belt. I want to be sure I have the correct belt in hand whe I go to replace it, and didn't want to take it off to measure it ahead of time. I don't know if this will work, but I thought if I took a piece of flat ribbon (like the kind you use to wrap packages) and duct-tape one end of it to the back of the belt, I could crank the engine and pull the ribbon thru all the pulleys until it came back around again. Then, I would undo the ribbon when it came all the way around and measure the length.

The other idea I had was to mark a starting point on the belt, then use a digital tape (the kind that has a little wheel on it that you roll to measure the distance) and hold the counter against the belt until the mark came back around again.

Anyone think these ideas would work??

Bob
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Old 10-12-2010, 04:17 PM   #7
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I think you're going to find it cranks a bit fast for either of those to work, or to be very safe. The wheel idea is safer, but I think the belts you'll want to distinguish between will be pretty similar, so accuracy in seeing your mark will be critical.

I'm sure the belt will have a tensioner, so the chances of your duct tape staying on past the tensioner are slim.

It's just not that hard to release the tensioner and remove the belt.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:09 PM   #8
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I'll have to take another look at it. It is a V10 Triton on a class A (2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U). It looked really difficult to get to all the pulleys from what I remember when I changed the plugs, that's why I thought of doing it this way. Maybe once I get into it, it won't be as bad as it seems.

Thanks,
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:50 AM   #9
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Bob, A Ford parts department should know the serpentine belt part# for the F53 Super Duty chassis, have you checked with them?

You might check this Motorcraft part# JK8-1107 F81Z-8620-DA to see if it's the one that fits.

good luck
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:44 PM   #10
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way to much effort to change a belt any qualified auto parts store or Dealer should be able to get the correct belt on the first try
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:14 PM   #11
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There are actually 2 listed. One is for "striped chassis", and one is for "w/ac". Actually, there is a 3rd as well, but that is for no a/c. I was told it could be either one of the two by the Ford dealer. I just want one for a spare, so if I buy the wrong one, it may be a while before I learn that.

The other option is to buy both, use one of the new ones on the rig, then keep the used one for a spare, but with my bad back I didn't want to have to change the belt unless I really needed to. It really looks awfully tight from the doghouse.

Bob
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:25 PM   #12
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Bob, when I had my tranny serviced at 58k miles I had them check the belt and the service tech said it still looked in good shape, have 68k miles now with same belt. May be pushing my luck though.
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