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Old 05-07-2021, 12:18 PM   #15
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I am in the same boat as you, no power to the clutch but my blower fan is working. I tried hot wiring and the clutch kicked on.
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Old 05-08-2021, 10:10 PM   #16
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Many vehicles have an inline fuse unhood (often firewall mounted?) that blows when Low Pressure Switch kicks to prevent compressor damage.
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Old 05-22-2021, 07:33 AM   #17
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A/C serpentine belt missing

Likely this is unrelated to your specific situation, but I wanted to pass along that the proximate cause of the dash A/C not functioning on my 2021 Bay Star was that the serpentine belt for the compressor was missing. Took it to our dealer yesterday. After troubleshooting the Evans system in the coach and finding nothing amiss, it was determined that the compressor clutch wasn’t cycling. Being part of the chassis, this meant another frustrating trip to Ford. Got it home and like you, figured I could at least troubleshoot the “easy” stuff (fuses, relay and wiring). Pulled the dog house cover off and there below me was the compressor with no belt on it. Impossible to say if the belt failed or was never installed, but it sure explained why the compressor wasn’t working. 🙂
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Old 06-16-2021, 07:16 AM   #18
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Im in the same exact boat. I have an 07 Southwind on a Ford chassis. I have not power to the thermostat under the kickpanel at the blower. I have blower and the heat works. Compressor will not come on. Its a new compressor. I had a mechanic put it on and he couldn't get the compressor to work. He hot wired it to charge the system. I have messed around and done some checking thinking my control panel is bad. I put my control panel in a buddies 08 Southwind and the AC works fine. So my control panel is good. So there has to be a bad relay or a bad fuse that is not getting me power to the system. I have no power coming out of the control panel to the thermostat. Reading the schematics it appears that should be the case. I have a Denso system. Its frustrating because Denso has no help line and I have called Rev Group with no real help there. It sounds like we have the same problem though.
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Old 06-17-2021, 09:24 AM   #19
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Im in the same exact boat. I have an 07 Southwind on a Ford chassis. I have not power to the thermostat under the kickpanel at the blower. I have blower and the heat works. Compressor will not come on. Its a new compressor. I had a mechanic put it on and he couldn't get the compressor to work. He hot wired it to charge the system. I have messed around and done some checking thinking my control panel is bad. I put my control panel in a buddies 08 Southwind and the AC works fine. So my control panel is good. So there has to be a bad relay or a bad fuse that is not getting me power to the system. I have no power coming out of the control panel to the thermostat. Reading the schematics it appears that should be the case. I have a Denso system. Its frustrating because Denso has no help line and I have called Rev Group with no real help there. It sounds like we have the same problem though.
RELAY #1 is shown in the F53 Owner Manual as "A/C Clutch Relay"; on Class C- this is in the Fuse panel in engine bay forward of driver, but I am not sure where on a F53 chassis? Ford F53 Owner Manual available for Free download ONLINE. LUCK
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Old 07-19-2021, 10:35 AM   #20
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An update to my system. I have hotwired my compressor and it works great. Plan on putting gauges on it this evening. Something is stopping from getting power to the compressor and I just cannot find it.
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Old 07-20-2021, 09:30 PM   #21
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An update to my system. I have hotwired my compressor and it works great. Plan on putting gauges on it this evening. Something is stopping from getting power to the compressor and I just cannot find it.
If you connect your gauge and see a pressure above, 100 psi, being low on refrigerant is not your problem. Look elsewhere for the problem but testing the system pressure on the bigger (low pressure) port is the first thing I'd do if the compressor wouldn't run because it's an easy test to make.

At a temperature of 80 degrees F, you should see pressure of at least 100 psi on your gauge for R134a. The low pressure switch will cut off the compressor below 35 psi (23 degrees F) and won't kick back in until the pressure rises above 50 psi (40 degrees F). Those pressure would prevent the coil from frosting up and allow it to defrost before starting again in case air flow through the evaporator is low or blocked.
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Old 07-21-2021, 04:32 PM   #22
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If you connect your gauge and see a pressure above, 100 psi, being low on refrigerant is not your problem. Look elsewhere for the problem but testing the system pressure on the bigger (low pressure) port is the first thing I'd do if the compressor wouldn't run because it's an easy test to make.

At a temperature of 80 degrees F, you should see pressure of at least 100 psi on your gauge for R134a. The low pressure switch will cut off the compressor below 35 psi (23 degrees F) and won't kick back in until the pressure rises above 50 psi (40 degrees F). Those pressure would prevent the coil from frosting up and allow it to defrost before starting again in case air flow through the evaporator is low or blocked.
Thanks for the input. This gives me a bit of relief. I am currently camping and as soon as I get home, I will start troubleshooting the AC again.
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Old 07-26-2021, 11:31 AM   #23
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I had posted this previously on another forum explaining resolution of my issues with the Evan Tempcon on a 2011 F53. The problem was no power to the chassis AC - no fan, ac, nothing.

Fixed. Thank goodness for Winnebago Service folks, Winnebago electrical schematics, and Evans Tempcon online troubleshooting documentation.

To summarize, no power to the Evans system. Per the Evans schematics, power is fed from the F53 chassis to the dash selector control, and distributed from there. The big question was: what is the source of power from the Ford F53 chassis? The owners manual is silent on this.

Long story short: Winnebago has taken power from the Power Distribution Box (located on the firewall under the hood) fuse labeled "Blower" (fuse #23, 40 amp), and directs this to a 25 amp breaker inside the cab. This breaker is located in a panel below the inside fuse panel (the fuse panel is located left bottom of the driver's side, by the left foot when driving).

Now the tricky part. The above "Blower" fuse feeds power through the blower relay. A relay has 2 feeds: 1 is to energize the coil in the relay, and 1 is the main power feed. Once power is introduced to the energize the coil, this closes the contacts in the relay so that main power passes to the device fed by the relay. In my case, the ground wire from relay coil became disconnected (I discovered the loose wire behind the speedometer panel after removing the plastic dash cover). Since the relay did not energize, power wouldn't pass from the "Blower" fuse to the Winnebago 25 amp breaker which supplied power to the Evans unit dash panel.

Whew! So, the source of power to the Evans unit is the "Blower" Fuse in the Power Distribution Box. The Ford owners manual does not note this rewiring. The only way to decipher this rewiring by Winnebago would be by investigating the electrical schematics at the Winnebago website.

I will say a big thanks to Winnebago taking the time to respond to my inquiries by email, and posting the Chassis Drawings for my 2011 Winnebago 32K as pdf files on their website. This no doubt saved me a pile of money at a service center.

I post this so others that may have a similar problem will be aided.

Regards.
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Old 07-26-2021, 02:34 PM   #24
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I posted the Ford wiring for his in post number 2 of this thread.
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Old 07-26-2021, 05:29 PM   #25
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Ah, see that. Could have used that when I was trying to find my problem!!
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Old 07-28-2021, 04:29 AM   #26
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Just wanted to update this guys. The problem is the high pressure switch. If I jump the switch the system works as it should. The switch lives in the evaporator box. Now I get the job of changing out the pressure switch. I currently have the blower out of it to fish a camera in there to see where the switch is. I guess it doesnt really matter the box has to come out. Or at least come loose and come apart enough to get to the switch.
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Old 07-28-2021, 05:32 AM   #27
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The high and low pressure switch's are part of the FORD part of the system and not part of the home builders AC system. They are both located in front of the radiator.

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Old 07-29-2021, 04:34 AM   #28
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High pressure switch

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The high and low pressure switch's are part of the FORD part of the system and not part of the home builders AC system. They are both located in front of the radiator.

/

I wish mine was that easy to get too. Mine isn't visible. Its in the box as I call it. I have to pull the box to get to it. My coach is an 07 on Ford F53 chassis.
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