I need to pull the intake on 1999 V-10. What all should I take care of?

[Fugitive861]

New-to-us clean 1999 Bounder with 40,000 miles. Mouse chewed through knock sensor wire. I'm considering pulling the intake manifold to replace sensor and inspect coolant pipe at rear of water pump. If rusty, replace pipe with new one?...or modify somehow? I also will inspect plastic intake manifold around crossover pipe as my research indicates cracks commonly form there. Will replace thermostat and gaskets. Will do plugs at the same time. Torque plugs to 28 foot pounds? with NO anti-seize or WITH anti-seize? Replace coils? If so are the cheap coils ok or should I stay with Ford brand? Is there anything else to consider inspecting/replacing while doing this project? Engine has poor, lopey idle...like hotrod cam. But no check engine codes. Drive's ok. I'm hoping knock sensor, coils or fuel filter may clear up the idle issue.

[Pirate]

Definitely replace that heat pipe. I'm planning to take my manifold off just to do that single item preemptively.

[Waiter21]

Sounds like everything you listed is a good plan..

I re-used the intake manifold gasket. mine was in good shape and had a lot of resilience.

Follow the procedure to remove the plugs. You don't want to get a bunch of crap down in the cylinders. Make sure to install a hi-flow thermostat. Install new COPS and plugs. use just a tiny bit of antisieze on the threads. Use ONLY Autolite APP103. torque to 28 ft lbs

If you scroll down to "REASSEMBLY NOTES" in this article, it shows how I repaired the heater pipe.


F53 Repairing broken exhaust manifold studs – 1999 Southwind 35S


Clean your MAF sensor. verify you have the water intrusion intake TSB complied with.

http://www.1999southwind.com/clean-maf-sensor/


http://www.1999southwind.com/tsb-air...ter-ingestion/


..

[winniman]

I had a 2000 v10 ford. I was considering changing my spark plugs with 60,000 miles until I heard about the possibility of them blowing out if incorrectly torqued. Those plugs are good for 100k, so unless you really feel the need to change them, I wouldn't touch them. This video explains the reason behind it. Good luck.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...60&FORM=WRVORC

[Fugitive861]

Originally Posted by winniman

I had a 2000 v10 ford. I was considering changing my spark plugs with 60,000 miles until I heard about the possibility of them blowing out if incorrectly torqued. Those plugs are good for 100k, so unless you really feel the need to change them, I wouldn't touch them. This video explains the reason behind it. Good luck.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...60&FORM=WRVORC

I've read about the spark plug problems and detailed replacement procedures. I realize they are not due with 40,000 miles, but my thought was that they probably are 20 years old. I plan to take it slow and easy when attempting to remove. Hopefully all goes well. If not, a major can of worms could be opened.

[Fugitive861]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

Sounds like everything you listed is a good plan..

I re-used the intake manifold gasket. mine was in good shape and had a lot of resilience.

Follow the procedure to remove the plugs. You don't want to get a bunch of crap down in the cylinders. Make sure to install a hi-flow thermostat. Install new COPS and plugs. use just a tiny bit of antisieze on the threads. Use ONLY Autolite APP103. torque to 28 ft lbs

If you scroll down to "REASSEMBLY NOTES" in this article, it shows how I repaired the heater pipe.


F53 Repairing broken exhaust manifold studs – 1999 Southwind 35S


Clean your MAF sensor. verify you have the water intrusion intake TSB complied with.

Clean MAF Sensor – 1999 Southwind 35S


TSB air intake reduces water ingestion on F53 – 1999 Southwind 35S


..

Thanks again Waiter21. Your responses and website contain a wealth of great information.

[Waiter21]

NOTES:

When I put the COPs on, I used a cotton swab, put a dab of di-electric grease on it, then wipe this up inside the first 1/4 inch of the rubber boot that slides over the plug. This will prevent the boot from sticking to the plug and make extraction easier in the future.

If You remove the two gasoline fuel lines (supply and return), before removing them, remove the fuel filler cap on the gas tank. This will prevent pressure from building up inside the gas tank and pushing all your gas out the two disconnected fuel lines.

My OEM plugs had 65k miles on them when I replaced them. They all looked good but I was surprised how much they had worn. The gaps were almost double. I had no codes set. ALSO - I was somewhat ALARMED at how easy they came out. Almost like they were only snugged up. (my calibrated arm doesn't do well to measure torque down at 200 inch lbs.)

[C-Leigh Racing]

Waiter,
Plugs in our old 99 V10 had 114,000 on them & they really didnt look that bad. Has a slight skip when first getting on the gas, but as the rpm went up it went away is the reason for the plug & cop change out.
That skip is still there though even with the new parts. Could it be from injectors with that many miles or maybe a lifter I've heard some talk about on the V10s.
Oh, had a friend that has changed out quite a few plugs on the 5.4s & he had no problem at all changing them out on this 99 V10.
Neil

[Waiter21]

That skip is still there though even with the new parts

I assuem "new parts" means new plugs and COPs..

I've seen reports of injector orings and injectors causing missing. o-rings are kind of easy to replace, just lift the fuel rails.

Get scan data and see if you have a cylinder missing. then swap injectors to see if problem follows.

Double check intake path. the hoses ducts for cracks or dry rot. Air filter, MAF sensor clean, etc.

ALSO - Transmission issues can sometimes disguise themselves as engine issues. Did you do the 1st / 2nd gear transmission TSB??

Look very carefully at U-joints for binding or broken casings,.