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Old 09-19-2020, 03:23 PM   #1
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Install new battery in Triton 6.8 now motor runs but wonít move

I installed a new battery in my 2006 Winnebago with a Triton v10 yesterday. It will start now but the idle Is very low and hardly stays running. The gas pedal has no effect on the throttle body and both engine lite and yellow wrench is on. I tried disconnecting the battery overnight and also disconnecting the negative and running a jumper wire from positive to negative cable to drain the capacitors but it did not fix the problem. I plugged in my code reader I am getting these codes 2104, 2111, and 2112. I tried erasing the codes but that didnít make any difference on running and the codes came back. A friend recommend trying to start it with the passenger side throttle body disconnected, when I did this the engine started up fine and ran perfect for 4 seconds but then went back to barley running at all.
I guess Iím lucky because the motor home is in my backyard and not the campground. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Mike
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Old 09-19-2020, 03:34 PM   #2
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Did you happen to connect the terminals backwards, even for a second ?
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Old 09-19-2020, 03:38 PM   #3
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No l didnít do that the cables are way too short to do this. Someone suggested that engine is in bypass or limp mode which disconnects the throttle pedal to the throttlebody but I have no idea how to fix that. Thanks
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Old 09-19-2020, 05:01 PM   #4
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Did some reading and your throttle body may be stuck.

Engine off, Remove the air intake and see if it can be opened with your finger.

If its stuck, they say spray throttle body cleaner in it.
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Old 09-19-2020, 05:13 PM   #5
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you put the wrong battery in !!! I did that to a pickup and it did the same thing , spent a week working on it took to ford dealer and they put the correct battery in and it was fine !Crazy ! the dealer told me mine was the wrong amp hour and the computer would not accept it !
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Old 09-19-2020, 05:22 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by swampdog2 View Post
you put the wrong battery in !!! I did that to a pickup and it did the same thing , spent a week working on it took to ford dealer and they put the correct battery in and it was fine !Crazy ! the dealer told me mine was the wrong amp hour and the computer would not accept it !
I gotta hold my watch up to save it because it's getting deep in here.

Sorry, 12 Volt FLA battery is 12 Volts regardless of the AH capacity. No way to test the capacity of a good battery without a long charge/discharge test. And once the engine is running, you could remove the battery without ill effect because the alternator supplies all the 12 volt loads required to run the engine.

Now if you put in a 6 volt battery, or a battery with a bad cell that may be a different story.
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:29 PM   #7
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It was a group 65 battery I checked It with my voltmeter before I put it in it had 12.65 Volts. I didnít see a negative sign on my volt meter so Iím assuming the polarity is right but I will double check it tomorrow.
Thanks
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:35 PM   #8
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.Thanks twin boat I was thinking the same thing so I use the dowel rod to open the butterflies a little to make sure they werenít stuck. Thanks for everybodyís helping out there.
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:39 PM   #9
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Just a wild eyed guess. Dropped a wire out of sight. Voltage to computers etc is getting to them but through resistive round about ways.

If it starts as if the battery voltage is good, that is it crank over strongly, then the battery is ok.

Once you drop the ignition key back into the run position after it fires the voltages for those computers is not coming from the engine battery but the coach batteries.

Hmmm, disconnect from shoreline, disconnect all negative leads of the coach batteries. See if it runs. If it starts and dies after letting go of the key it would be a clue.
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Old 09-19-2020, 09:12 PM   #10
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P2104 is an OBD-II generic code for the engine control module (ECM) detecting a major failure in the throttle actuator control (TAC) system causing the ECM to go into failure mode forced idle and limiting the engine to an idle RPM limit only.
The P2111 OBD-II trouble code is one of number of possible codes that indicates that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has detected a malfunction with the operation of the Throttle Actuator Control System. Code P2111 is set by the PCM when the throttle body plate is stuck in the open position.
The P2112 code tells us that the throttle body actuator control system has found a stuck closed throttle plate. ... The Engine Control Unit (ECU) detects the throttle plate actuator stuck closed and triggers a Check Engine Light to be set on the dashboard.

Sounds like the PCM is detecting an incorrect voltage. That is one of the issues that will set the 2104 code. If that's not it, I'd say you have a bad throttle actuator controller.

The following is from an OBD2 code website
The most common situations that set this code and place the engine in fail-safe or limp mode to indicate an issue and act as a red flag are: Engine Overheating Coolant Leaks EGR Valve Malfunction Mass Air Flow Sensor Malfunction Drive Axle Modifications ABS, Traction Control or Stability Control Failures Automatic Transmission Problems Abnormal System Voltages

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2104
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If you don't suspect a voltage problem (most likely since that is what you messed with last) then you could try to disconnect the MAF connector and start it. It will set a code, but it will run on the MAP codes in the computer
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Old 09-19-2020, 09:13 PM   #11
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Thanks YC1 I will do that tomorrow, the coach is plug into shore power. The coach batteries are only a few months old, maybe they are not charging from the converter and are low on charge.
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Old 09-19-2020, 09:31 PM   #12
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Thanks HarryStone for all that information. I will disconnect the MAF sensor and start it tomorrow. If it run good what should I do then. Do you think it could be also a throttle positioning sensor. The motorhome did sit overnight without a battery in it until the next day when I got a new one, do you think that might of cause this problem?
Thanks
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Old 09-19-2020, 09:38 PM   #13
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Modern computers aren't that sensitive to battery disconnects. It may lose it's learned throttle settings and learned shift points, but that shouldn't keep it from coming off idle. The reason I mentioned the MAF, is that most of the other possible causes aren't or shouldn't be applicable to you, other than the voltage issue. If you disconnect the MAF and it works, try cleaning the connections and retrying it, if that doesn't work, you'll need a new MAF. G/L
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Old 09-19-2020, 10:12 PM   #14
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What was the original problem that made you decide to replace the engine battery?
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