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Old 09-19-2012, 04:42 PM   #1
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Just Advised

Was just advised of this Forum, I guess I had never scrolled down far enough to check this one out. Thought maybe some one might have some insight that had not previously been shared?
An update to the problem would be that since the temps have dropped down into the mid 80's or so, and my trips have been less than 100 miles, I have also (was advised to) kept a loose gas cap, the problem has not resurfaced. Everytime I get into a one lane construction zone or when I see that I am not in a position to pull it over should the need arise I start to panic!

Hi, I have researched this into the ground, searched all the old posts here as well as on other sites. Just need to check one more time before I start dropping the $$!
I have a 1996 Ford Chassis (F-53) on a 32' Class A Pace Arrow. I am certain all of these problems are related I just don't know how, please help if you can.
The fuel gage does not work on this unit, on 3 seperate occasions my engine has lost power and eventually died and failed to restart for a period of 15 minutes, to in one case a couple hours. Typically before it loses power it coughs, bucks, surges, and sputters. Once it loses power it will always start, then come on line as if to idle for a minute before it surges back and forth then eventually dies. This typically associated with thriple digit temps, and or major grades (Raton pass) long slow treks out of canyons, etc. Most times if I am patient enough (stick around long enough to hear it) the gas tank will bang and clunk while expanding/contracting. Sometimes even if the engine does not die and I have been on the road long periods of time, when I stop and am parked the tank will clank and bang, and of course it always burps, and hisses when I take the cap off.
So far all I have done to combat this is to replace the gas cap (no effect), and to replace the fuel filter. I thought the fuel filter fixed the problem but about 350 miles later I had a repeat experience. The last one cost me about 500.00 to be towed (fired right up at the repair shop and ran beautifully), and told there was nothing wrong with the RV. The guy told me the check engine light has to be on to pull a code, and the the fuel pressure was at 35lbs, and everything checks out fine. The check engine light usually comes on intermittently while it is cycling through it's problem but is off by the time it starts and runs normally.
This unit (outside of this problem) starts and runs really well, tons of power 7 - 9 MPG depending on the conditions (weight, speed, winds). It has 14800 miles on it, 2500 of which I have put on in the last month. As far as it's past goes it looks like it was bought, put on the road when it was new for 8K miles, sat several years inside, was sold in 08, used a few times a year for 200 to 300 mile local trips from 08 to 12 when I bought it. The PO said he never had any of these issues/problems with it. But has been less than honest on other issues (or so it seems) so I really don't know if it did or didn't?
Any and all help would be appreciated. My plan as it is to change the fuel filter once more and if I continue to have the problem change the fuel pump?
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:34 PM   #2
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Sounds like the vapor recovery system that is supposed to vent the gas tank is not working right. I'd check all the hoses and vent lines in and out of the gas tank, you'll probably find one kinked or blocked. The bang/clunk is probably the gas tank being 'caved in' by the suction of the fuel pump with no air allowed in to replace the burned gas. The fact that the problem disappears with the gas cap loose is a clue. Also, as the pump lowers the pressure in the tank in hot weather, you are more likely to vapor lock the fuel system with the combination of heat and low pressure.

I don't think you have a fuel pump problem, it works so good its pulling a vacuum!
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:44 PM   #3
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First welcome over here to our Forum.

The "7 - 9 MPG" is too high and to me that means you are running very lean.
Fuel pressure at 35psi (idle I presume) is also too high and sounds like a vacuum leak. Idle fuel pressure should be from 30psi to 33psi depending on the vacuum the engine is developing.

Air is to enter the fuel tank through the fuel caps one-way check valve.
I do know where you got the new gas cap but if it is an old sealed type cap that would be a problem also.

No the check engine light does not have to be on to check the codes.
You also can check the codes yourself.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:07 PM   #4
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Fuel starvation F53 1989-1996
Your conditions point to vapor lock of the old style rotary pump.
At the top right in box "powered by Google", type in as many different words about F53 fuel problems as you have time and enter search and you can spend a day reading. Some say replace only the pump--If you do you will get the same problem style pump you now have but it will only cost $130. Some say add a pump in the frame rail $75?--But you still have the same old pump in the tank.

The best way is to lower the 65 gallon tank and install the new turbine style pump/gauge sender assembly and the new style connector harness $400 +. This can be a do it your self project with a motorcycle lift jack, a friends help and the fuel tank mostly empty.
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