Community Forums

evofxdwg · 09-30-2020, 10:38 AM

Our 2007 Coachmen Mirada now has 25K miles on it. (2006 F53 chassis). We purchased in in 2014 used with 10K miles. This is my list of planned chassis preventative maintenance to do before spring 2021. What else should I add to the list due to age? Anything recommended NOT doing?:

- Change differential fluid (suck out thru plug hole - im sure its original)
- Bleed/replace brake fluid
- Remove front hubs, clean, replace grease seals, repack front wheel bearings
- Replace engine air filter
- Drain/replace engine coolant (probably the original with only top-offs in there-but its still translucent gold color)
- Replace spark plugs (yes, I know about the TSB's for breakage of the originals)
- Inspect front brake pads, replace if necessary
- Inspect engine drive belt(s). Replace if necessary.

I read there is some fluid to replace in the E-brake and found a procedure - not even sure about that yet. Should I mess with it?

What about changing the hydraulic leveling system fluid? I did notice the hoses underneath have a dirt/oil coating, but assume that is normal.

The shocks on it are Bilstien, as purchased so I assume previous owner replaced OEM shocks. Im assuming leave for a while.

Rotating tires? They are going to age out before wearing out so I don't see the point.

(Note: I HAVE DONE THE FOLLOWING REGULARLY OR AS INDICATED)
Trans fluid/filter change (done once)
Regular engine oil/filter changes
Regular chassis grease points
Inspect/blow off engine air filter
Generator oil/oil filter/air filter, plug change (once)
Regular fluid inspections/top off (including generator and hydraulic leveler)
Chassis A/C compressor was replaced, system flushed, refilled/adjusted with oil/refrigerant when we bought it.
Replaced rear rubber sway bar bushings, installed cheap handling fix.
Front bump stops have been replaced.
TIRES HAVE BEEN REPLACED (found out the hard way!)

Rocky Larson · 09-30-2020, 11:42 AM

Mass Sensor cleaning and fuel filter replacement come to mind. A big NO on the tire rotation. Wiper blades if needed, upgrade or recharge fire extinguisher(s). Lube steps and all outside locks & hinges. Lube tow bar, and any roof top crank up antennas. Flush out water heater, change anode rod if required. Lube black and gray water sewer valves (add zerk fittings if not already done)

Maybe not all considered "chassis" but certainly on my PM list.
Good luck. Stay Safe.

Sweetbriar · 09-30-2020, 02:08 PM

Leave the spark plugs along unless you're getting misfire codes. They are good for 100,000 miles. More likely a coil pack will die before the plugs.

Leave the E-brake alone also. Pretty much a sealed unit needing little if any maintenance other than a level check.

Fuel filter is quick and easy but you could hold off until 50,000 miles. It's on the driver's side frame rail in front evap canisters. You will need a special tool to release the fuel lines which cost's about $5.

Changing the hydraulic fluid in the jacks is a good, nice weather, Saturday project.

Leave the tires alone unless you see unusual wear patterns on the fronts. Then rotate and have the front end checked out and maybe aligned.

Regarding shocks ask Santa Claus for a set of Koni shocks.

Take a close look and the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater core hoses for potential replacement. Also the clamps.

Inspect the front suspension and steering gear grease seals. Pretty obvious when a seal is torn and needs to be replaced. I can't recall the part number for replacements but if you do a search in this forum you'll find a number for I think it was Spartan chassis seals that fit.

Check your rear axle. If you have a Dana 80 (11,000 lbs. rated) the rear cover on the differential is removable and makes a fluid change much easier. If you have to pump out the old oil first drive the coach to get the differential as warm as possible other wise getting the heavy oil out is difficult when cold.

You'll need about 3 qtrs. of DOT 3 brake fluid for a full flush. Get one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Will make job quick and easy. Check the rear brake pads also. Considering the weight distribution of an RV, heavy rear/light front, the rears can wear just as fast as the fronts unlike a car.

Do the drive belt. Another easy driveway job and good to know how to do it just incase you need to replace on the side of the road someday. Save the old belt just incase.

You may not need to grease the front axles but the only way to know is to disassemble the hubs to see if the bearings are seal or not.

twinboat · 09-30-2020, 02:35 PM

Don't blow out the air filters with compressed air. It tears the material letting larger particles past the filter.
Tap it, to shake out the big stuff, and put it back in.

Ford recommends belt replacement at 90,000 miles.

Be sure to grease the lower king pin bushings, thoughly, with the wheels on the ground. That closes the gap between the spindle and thrust bearing, otherwise the grease slips out under it and the bearing doesn't get any grease and fails.
The bushing keep the wheel in place but the thrust bearing carries the RV weight.

SuperGewl · 10-01-2020, 02:57 AM

If you are going to do the plugs then do the coil packs also, you have to remove them to get to the plugs.
Personally I would do them even thou others may disagree. Remember the saying" You can pay me now or you can pay me allot more later" when you are stuck road side in the middle of bum duck boone hill.
don't waste your time rotating the tires, get your self some Centramatic wheel balancers and put them on. they really do work and can even smooth out the ride some.

I forgot one other thing, I'm not sure if you mentioned it. Replace the steering fluid.