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Old 12-17-2013, 10:03 AM   #1
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Multiple electrical failures

I have a 2012 Daybreak by Thor which has some serious electrical problems. I first noticed my battery was going dead. My ammeter showed a parasitic draw of about .5 amps. I can eliminated the draw by removing two mini fuses located under the dashboard on the driver's side. These fuses are #4 which protects the instrument panel cluster and #16 which protects the body builder (+12V) battery feed.

Then I realized the following lights didn't work: tail lights, license plate light, running lights, parking lights and the map light. Other lights work normally. Further testing showed I could vary the amount of parasitic draw by adjusting the dimmer switch for the instrument panel lights. With the #4 mini fuse in place and the #16 fuse removed, I can vary the draw from .22 to .34 amps. With the #16 in place and the #4 fuse removed I can vary the draw from .12 to .45 amps. Adjusting the dimmer switch to the lowest setting only reduces the draw but does not eliminate it.

I took my motorhome to the Ford dealership and they've had it for five weeks and haven't been able to solve the problem. Because all these problems seem to have occurred simultaneously there must be a common cause for all these electrical failures. Can you help?
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:34 AM   #2
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Quote:
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I have a 2012 Daybreak by Thor which has some serious electrical problems. I first noticed my battery was going dead. My ammeter showed a parasitic draw of about .5 amps. I can eliminated the draw by removing two mini fuses located under the dashboard on the driver's side. These fuses are #4 which protects the instrument panel cluster and #16 which protects the body builder (+12V) battery feed. Then I realized the following lights didn't work: tail lights, license plate light, running lights, parking lights and the map light. Other lights work normally. Further testing showed I could vary the amount of parasitic draw by adjusting the dimmer switch for the instrument panel lights. With the #4 mini fuse in place and the #16 fuse removed, I can vary the draw from .22 to .34 amps. With the #16 in place and the #4 fuse removed I can vary the draw from .12 to .45 amps. Adjusting the dimmer switch to the lowest setting only reduces the draw but does not eliminate it. I took my motorhome to the Ford dealership and they've had it for five weeks and haven't been able to solve the problem. Because all these problems seem to have occurred simultaneously there must be a common cause for all these electrical failures. Can you help?
Yes, I can help! Get it back from the Ford dealer, who obviously isn't doing anything. Put the fuses back in. Change your battery, if bad. Charge up your battery, if good, after checking your fluid levels. Put a trickle charger on and plug it in to a 120 VAC outlet. Leave trickle charger on until ready to use motorhome. Problem should be solved. It worked for me on a previous coach.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:46 AM   #3
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... body builder (+12V) battery feed. ...
Sounds like your issue right there. I don't think the issue will be on the Ford side. All the things you mention not working were installed by Thor.

Does Thor have any way to access wiring diagrams? I've used the ones Winnebago provided for mine countless times (once to fix the domelight wiring they screwed up even).
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:15 PM   #4
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X2 on tderonne's observation contact Thor and have them resolve your problems..
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:52 AM   #5
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Prior to taking my MH to Ford, I disconnected the power to the electric steps and radio to rule out them as a source of the problem. I contacted Thor yesterday and was told they have no wiring involving circuits protected by fuses #4 and #16. He said they buy chassis that are prewired for tail lights, license plate lights, etc. and they just plug in to Ford's wiring. He referred me to a specialist at Ford for a consultation. I put in a call to Ford, but haven't heard back from them. Stay tuned.
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:04 AM   #6
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And yet, when you pull those fuses a whole bunch of Thor installed stuff stops working.
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:30 PM   #7
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Tim,
I'll check that out and see what Thor circuits are disabled when I pull #4 and #16.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:01 PM   #8
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F16 has no Ford installed loads on it. It is strictly for the body builder as a constant 20 amp 12V circuit. So if there is a load on that circuit, it was from the body builder and should be switched off when not used or the battery will drain. F4 should not have anything other than the cluster on it. There are two 12V unswitched feed to the cluster and that is F4 and F10. It may be necessary to trace down the wiring harness to see where (if they did) tap into that circuit. However, when doing a battery draw test, the ignition must be off for 40 minutes to verify all modules power down. No more than .05 amp draw. The instrument cluster connector can be disconnected to verify that the IC is turning off correctly.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:42 AM   #9
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I'm not quite sure what a body builder is. Sounds like its a circuit designed to allow Thor to add on accessories etc. Can anyone clarify this?

Does this chassis have a body control module? If so, could that be the culprit?

Ken
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:51 AM   #10
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I'm not quite sure what a body builder is. Sounds like its a circuit designed to allow Thor to add on accessories etc. Can anyone clarify this?

Does this chassis have a body control module? If so, could that be the culprit?

Ken
The body builder is anyone that adds onto a Ford (or who ever builds it) chassis. AKA, Thor is the body builder in this case. The F53 chassis do not have a body control module. They only have a PCM, ABS, and IC module. And yes, there are circuits for Thor (or any other body builder) to connect to for power needs. However they need to make sure they know that function of the circuit. AKA I have a water pump and waste water truck in here now. The brake lights remain on. The body builder tied into an incorrect circuit causing a back feed. They are running the tail lamps for a trailer on a 5 amp light circuit not designed for that use.
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:16 AM   #11
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You're right. the body builder battery feed is put there by Ford so the body builder, Thor, can add accessories. I talked to a rep from Thor who said the only accessories on this circuit, #16, on my model MH is the radio and the auxiliary battery switch.
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