My NEW F53 Chassis with the 7.3L V8

[sevenmacs]

The recharge of AC didn't resolve issue, blowing hot air. waiting on a appointment from dealer to resolve but would like to correct issue myself, saves tme and running back and forth.

[Hermes2]

Originally Posted by sevenmacs

The recharge of AC didn't resolve issue, blowing hot air. waiting on a appointment from dealer to resolve but would like to correct issue myself, saves tme and running back and forth.

I'm not sure if this would apply to your MH, but a good number of 2020-2021 Winnebago's with the new V8 had AC supply/return lines reversed. There's a long thread and relatively quick fix -- which worked for me -- here: https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...-359930-3.html https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...-359930-3.html

[D20]

Originally Posted by sevenmacs

The recharge of AC didn't resolve issue, blowing hot air. waiting on a appointment from dealer to resolve but would like to correct issue myself, saves tme and running back and forth.

The coolant control valve was sticking on mine and would not blow cold. I proved this by pinching off the coolant hose just before the valve. Blew cold while pinched. I checked the voltages on the valve connection while changing the temperature control on the dash and all was as it should be. I wound up cycling the temperature control on the dash from full hot to full cold, letting it sit for 30 seconds or so at each extreme, back and forth numerous times. That has freed up the valve to where now it fully seats and dash air is nice and cold.

I am guessing that you also have the ProAir Evans Tempcon A/C. If so, there are good step by step troubleshooting manuals here: https://www.proairllc.com/design-eng...empcon-guides/

[sevenmacs]

Originally Posted by Hermes2

I'm not sure if this would apply to your MH, but a good number of 2020-2021 Winnebago's with the new V8 had AC supply/return lines reversed. There's a long thread and relatively quick fix -- which worked for me -- here: https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...-359930-3.html https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...-359930-3.html

Possibly it , I noticed that what I thought to be the retrun line was very hot when it shouldn't be unless heat is on. The supply side wasn't hot, just warm. I'll need to look deeper to see if the are resveresed.

[TFell]

I also have cold AC while idling and then hot once driving. I called the Ford dealer for that and other issues and they told me it is a common problem and that it is something the RV dealer would need to handle. She mentioned the swapped lines and I brought up the heater control valve. She said they have been unsuccessful trying to fix them so now they direct customers to the RV dealer. The heater control valve is not a Ford part, she said.

Yay. Can’t wait to pursue General RV about it. I’d rather attempt DIY fixes.

[sevenmacs]

Originally Posted by TFell

I also have cold AC while idling and then hot once driving. I called the Ford dealer for that and other issues and they told me it is a common problem and that it is something the RV dealer would need to handle. She mentioned the swapped lines and I brought up the heater control valve. She said they have been unsuccessful trying to fix them so now they direct customers to the RV dealer. The heater control valve is not a Ford part, she said.

Yay. Can’t wait to pursue General RV about it. I’d rather attempt DIY fixes.

I had same problem and reveresed lines today and its working fine now. Supply line to valve should come from manifold, return line goes to the water pump. This was also confirmed today by Ford technician for F53 chassis.

[Hermes2]

Originally Posted by sevenmacs

I had same problem and reveresed lines today and its working fine now. Supply line to valve should come from manifold, return line goes to the water pump. This was also confirmed today by Ford technician for F53 chassis.

Yea! In my case, I paid an RV dealer tech to quick-swap the lines rather than wait for an OK from WBGO. Good thing, as WBG "declined" the warranty fix I had performed -- they wanted to do the whole "replace everything else first" routine. Now I have to send WBGO a bill for the work as it solved the problem.

[Garyaber]

Originally Posted by TFell

I also have cold AC while idling and then hot once driving. I called the Ford dealer for that and other issues and they told me it is a common problem and that it is something the RV dealer would need to handle. She mentioned the swapped lines and I brought up the heater control valve. She said they have been unsuccessful trying to fix them so now they direct customers to the RV dealer. The heater control valve is not a Ford part, she said.

Yay. Can’t wait to pursue General RV about it. I’d rather attempt DIY fixes.

Strange! It is a Ford chassis and I would think the dash air was part of the Ford engine and chassis. Roof air---yes that's the dealer, but dash air?? Maybe the factory buys the engine and chassis separately??

[D20]

Originally Posted by Garyaber

Strange! It is a Ford chassis and I would think the dash air was part of the Ford engine and chassis. Roof air---yes that's the dealer, but dash air?? Maybe the factory buys the engine and chassis separately??

Ford only supplies the compressor and some hoses. Maybe the dryer. Each RV manufacturer is responsible for purchasing the evaporator, fan, controls, ducting, etc and getting them all hooked up correctly. Most often, the RV manufacturers are purchasing Proair Evans Tempcon systems.

[mack73]

Originally Posted by Garyaber

Strange! It is a Ford chassis and I would think the dash air was part of the Ford engine and chassis. Roof air---yes that's the dealer, but dash air?? Maybe the factory buys the engine and chassis separately??

What you see here is what Ford supplies (f53 stripped chassis). Everything else is pieced together by the motorhome manufacture.

[Kluffinator]

So is anyone else getting a P068A code? I got one today and the Godzilla went into a low power mode. Turned it off, restarted and it went away for a couple miles until I let up on the gas then it coughed and went into low power. Since I was only 25 miles out from home I got on the freeway and took backroads home . Ran ok at 35-45 mph but still has the check light. Starts and idles fine. And will climb a hill at low speed. Just doesn’t like going 65 on the freeway. I already changed the plug wires. This is something new.

[D20]

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

So is anyone else getting a P068A code? I got one today and the Godzilla went into a low power mode. Turned it off, restarted and it went away for a couple miles until I let up on the gas then it coughed and went into low power. Since I was only 25 miles out from home I got on the freeway and took backroads home . Ran ok at 35-45 mph but still has the check light. Starts and idles fine. And will climb a hill at low speed. Just doesn’t like going 65 on the freeway. I already changed the plug wires. This is something new.

I haven’t heard of this issue. I don’t really know but google says it might be a bad relay that supplies power to the PCM. You could pull the relay and check it out. It is R02 located in the Ford chassis fuse box under the hood.

[Kluffinator]

Originally Posted by D20

I haven’t heard of this issue. I don’t really know but google says it might be a bad relay that supplies power to the PCM. You could pull the relay and check it out. It is R02 located in the Ford chassis fuse box under the hood.

Thanks. Worth a try.

[TFell]

Turned out to be reversed lines on my coach. I got the impression from General RV, who fixed it, that it is somewhat common. Works perfectly now!