Community Forums

Charles L · 05-11-2020, 06:11 PM

Thank you.

keymastr · 05-11-2020, 06:59 PM

Go to toptiergas.com for a list of fuels allowed to be called top tier because of the amount of additives they contain that aid combustion and keep your fuel system and cylinders clean. None of the stations you listed earlier are on that list. If you buy cheap gas it may not have any additives at all. It makes a huge difference and may take a couple tanks to clean it up enough to be noticeable. For what it's worth my vehicles have always run better on Chevron and their Techron additive is sold many other places because of how well it works.

TJFogelberg · 05-19-2020, 07:18 PM

I have the same chassis as OP and same issue. Just had my mechanic check it out and he recommended belt and tensioner replacement for a total cost of $277.61. My issue is exactly the same as OP. Will ride it out until next Springs service visit. Bought 2017 Minnie Winnie (31D) in Oct '16 and of course this issue started after the 36,000 mile/3 year warranty expired.

mini4mw · 12-13-2020, 02:22 PM

I had a rattle in my 2018 E-450 as well and while researching came across this thread. I found the issue was my serpentine belt. Video link for the rattle and changing the belt out can be found on the Jayco forum post below. Just thought I'd throw this out so someone can hear what mine sounded like and that changing the belt out fixed it.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...elt-82252.html

ga traveler · 12-14-2020, 07:37 AM

When replacing the serpentine belt, NEVER use the MotorCraft belt. Continental makes a no chirping belt. For the 1999 V10 the part number is 4081102. At our dealership, we only used continental belts. They are cross cut to prevent chirping. This belt cured the chirping EVERY time.
This belt is under forty dollars at Summit racing or Autozone.

WileyOne · 12-14-2020, 03:55 PM

I'm the OP for this thread.

When I took my MH to Ford, they changed the serpentine belt, even though the vehicle had less than 20,000 miles. That solved my issue, but only for a few months.

After driving less than 4000 miles, the rattle is starting to return. I'll definitely be taking it back to Ford in the next few days.

I've been told that there is no way to adjust the tension, so that idea is out.
I've also been told that there is nothing you can spray on the belts and pulleys that will help.
So, what's left?

Maybe I should insist that they install the Continental belt this time instead of a Motorcraft belt?

twinboat · 12-14-2020, 03:59 PM

Have them change the idler and tensioner, if they didn't last time.

ga traveler · 12-15-2020, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WileyOne

I'm the OP for this thread.

When I took my MH to Ford, they changed the serpentine belt, even though the vehicle had less than 20,000 miles. That solved my issue, but only for a few months.

After driving less than 4000 miles, the rattle is starting to return. I'll definitely be taking it back to Ford in the next few days.

I've been told that there is no way to adjust the tension, so that idea is out.
I've also been told that there is nothing you can spray on the belts and pulleys that will help.
So, what's left?

Maybe I should insist that they install the Continental belt this time instead of a Motorcraft belt?

I would buy the continental belt and have someone put it on. I guarantee you will cure your problem.
At our shop we had people come in who had changed the idler, changed the AC compressor. Changed the alt., etc. They could not believe a $40.00 belt cured the problem.
Why am I so sure it is the problem? You stated it quit for 4000 miles. Then it returned. If it was the idler, the noise would not have gone away. The new belt usually takes a short while to start acting up.
Ford would probably tell you there is no problem. I say, why would continental invent a new style belt unless they were trying to fix a problem.

THenne1713 · 12-15-2020, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ga traveler

I would buy the continental belt and have someone put it on. I guarantee you will cure your problem.
At our shop we had people come in who had changed the idler, changed the AC compressor. Changed the alt., etc. They could not believe a $40.00 belt cured the problem.
Why am I so sure it is the problem? You stated it quit for 4000 miles. Then it returned. If it was the idler, the noise would not have gone away. The new belt usually takes a short while to start acting up.
Ford would probably tell you there is no problem. I say, why would continental invent a new style belt unless they were trying to fix a problem.

A FEW THOUGHTS: 1) Mountain areas often have 85-Octane instead of 87; I experienced ping (I think) and (might have) accidently installed 85-octane; (PING later disappeared) but 2) BROKEN EXHAUST HANGERS can well offer harmonics/ rattles in the loose tailpipe that cud Mimic PING; (I found that issue after returning home, but it was 8-feet of missing straight rear 3-inch tailpipe behind the rear axle :-(

WileyOne · 12-16-2020, 10:18 AM

Yesterday I grabbed a Continental belt for my E450 with AC.
They had it in stock at AutoZone for $39.

I took it to Ford and handed it to the Service Advisor along with a link to the Jayco thread. He was thrilled. Apparently, they've had a lot of complaints like mine.

I'll get the MH back today. I don't expect to hear the rattle on the short drive home. If all goes well, I'll declare it fixed at the end of the summer travel season.

Unplanned Tourist · 12-16-2020, 11:51 AM

Simple to check if it's the belt making the noise next time.

Squirt some water onto the inside of the belt while the engine is idling. If the sound goes away, it's the belt. If not, it's an idler or tensioner.

RELHUB · 12-18-2020, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WileyOne

Last month, we drove our 2017 (2016 E450 chassis) 24' Thor MH from Virginia to Florida and back.
There are not many hills on I-95, but here is what we noticed:

when cruising in a high gear at low RPM (2200-2600), the engine puts out a noise like a loud baby rattle. We assume this is predetonation or "pinging"
easing off the gas a little causes the pinging to stop
adding a little gas causes a downshift and the pinging stops
above 3300 rpm, we don't hear it at all
driving on a straight level road at 65 mph, the noise is still there but not quite as loud. It comes and goes with variations on the gas pedal
changing fuel from 87-10 to 89-10 made almost no noticeable difference
changing fuel to 88-15 made the noise worse
changing fuel to 91-10 helped a little, but the noise didn't go away

As we passed through Florence, SC, we stopped at 5-Star Tune and dropped $500 on a new set of engine parameters. The vehicle is now clearly more responsive and more fun to drive. The shift points are different, but the pinging didn't change much.

I'm sorry that my MPG calculations were a bit messed up, so I can't really say whether the 5-star made any difference in fuel economy. But, I feel like the more responsive settings are probably sucking more fuel than before.

If this is the best I can get with a Triton V10 6-speed on a north-south east coast trip, I dread finding out how it will behave in the mountains or pulling a 4000 pound boat.

If I have to use 93 octane, I might consider selling this thing.

These are my questions:

Is this noise definitely "pinging", or could something else be casuing my noise?
Every time I hear pinging, am I losing power and possibly causing damage to the engine?
Does my engine have a ping detector and how is it supposed to work?
Is this behavior normal for this engine-transmission-chassis combo?
Other than driving everywhere in towing-mode, what else can I try?

Last week I bought a new "ScanGauge II Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges" on Amazon for $139. I wish I had this installed before the Florida trip, but I will be watching it carefully on our next trip. I am curious whether real-time fuel economy is affected by the pinging.

I agree with other people postings, I would check exhaust system front to back. You say you tried the higher octane fuel and noise still happened.
I would look for loose heat shield or brackets that came loose.

mr.tommy · 12-22-2020, 07:56 AM

Always use nothing higher that 87 Octane and always us top tier fuel. This will keep your coach healthy in the long run. Remember the ol saying, "a penny wise is a pound foolish".

Also in the very beginning of the OP's post...he mentioned tow haul mode
If you're towing, always have your coach in tow haul mode. If not towing but are in towns or city traffic, still use tow haul mode for brake assistance. Using tow haul mode will use the engine to slow you down and will save your brakes and they should last 100K miles. Not using tow haul mode, braking distance is longer and harder and brakes won't last near as long. Tow haul is your friend.

Taffeys · 12-22-2020, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr.tommy

Always use nothing higher that 87 Octane and always us top tier fuel. This will keep your coach healthy in the long run. Remember the ol saying, "a penny wise is a pound foolish"..

If you really want to "keep your coach healthy in the long run" use nothing LOWER than 87 Octane. Guess you've never driven in Mexico. Using higher octane than a manufacturer specifies will not damage an engine.