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Old 10-04-2022, 09:13 AM   #1
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New Koni FSD Shocks - WOW, But...

I just took my first extended ride since replacing the old shocks with four new Koni FSD shocks. What a difference! The motorhome now handles the bumps in the road about as well as my car does--maybe better! There's no more bracing for impact with each bridge joint, pothole, etc.

However, I'm now getting much more sway than before. It was drastic enough that I actually pulled off the road and looked underneath to see if the place that installed the shocks took off my sway bars. (It looked like everything was still there, though I have yet to actually crawl underneath and really check everything thoroughly.)

To be more specific, the problem seems to occur when making a turn with bumps in the road or pulling into a driveway at an angle, for example. There seems to be more leaning to one side than I'm used to, and if anything causes any jolt, the rocking back and forth seems both more severe and takes longer to recover from. It's not just a little bit, either; it's a scary increase.

I suppose some of this is to be expected with these shocks, but I don't recall reading about this type of thing to the extent that I'm experiencing it. So, what does everyone think, and what should I do? I currently have the CHF and poly bushings all around, as well as TeJay's adjustable link extenders on the front set at the middle level. Do I now need larger sway bars? Springs? Do I just need to crawl through all turns?

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 10-04-2022, 09:48 AM   #2
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We had the FSD's on our 22,000 GVWR 242" wheelbase chassis installed by a truck shop and that was the only change that day. Their shop is on a "loop" road a few miles long. With my wife driving I watched a digital inclinometer I had placed on the passenger side floor next to the doghouse.

On 90 degrees turns from a stop the sway measured between 20 and 22 degrees on the loop, a lot. We had 800 miles total on the odometer.

Immediately after the shocks were installed we drove the same loop at the same speeds and the sway was down to 10 - 12 degrees. So not "drunken whale" but definitely still swaying.

The FSDs should reduce the sway, not increase it but maybe those bumps are the difference. If you can see the part number on the shocks be certain they put the 8805-1018 on the front and the 8805-1019 on the rear.

Yes, there's different part numbers for the front and rear, if you were not aware.

The label and numbering should not be upside down.

Ray
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Old 10-04-2022, 11:11 AM   #3
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I replaced my 4 yr old Bilsteins with the Koni FSD shocks, and I did have a bit more sway (the Bilsteins were very stiff), BUT, the ride was much improved. I'll take the trade.

Al
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Old 10-04-2022, 04:58 PM   #4
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NXR: Yes, I was aware of the different part numbers. I clearly labeled all four boxes for the shop, so hopefully they didn't screw things up. Once the ground dries up, I'll crawl under and take a look. By the way, I do remember reading your previous post about the sway measurements; good stuff!

FLRosebud: I agree! I'll take the trade, too. Maybe I'm just too used to how it was before, and I'll just have to be much more careful when turning into driveways or when making turns on rough road.

I'm looking forward to reading more opinions!

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 10-05-2022, 06:43 AM   #5
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I’m considering installing the Koni FSD’s also, since most everything I read about them is positive.
I will follow this thread with great interest, thanks for posting.
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Old 10-05-2022, 07:13 AM   #6
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Just to confirm:

After crawling underneath, I saw that all four shocks had the "Koni" sticker right side up. I couldn't see part numbers, but according to the pictures I saw online the 1018s were indeed on the front and the 1019s were on the back. Also, all my sway bar stuff was still attached as it should be.

So, back to my original question. Should I be considering larger sway bars, air bags, springs, or what? Am I able to solve my problem without reducing the benefits of the new shocks?

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 10-05-2022, 07:31 AM   #7
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I installed the sumo springs up front and the timbren ses rubber bump stops in the rear. reduced sway alot. the rear sumo's required drilling the frame where as the timbren's just bolt on in place of the factory bump stops.
they are much bigger than the ford bump stops and sit on the frame all the time.
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Old 10-05-2022, 07:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MathComp View Post
Just to confirm:

After crawling underneath, I saw that all four shocks had the "Koni" sticker right side up. I couldn't see part numbers, but according to the pictures I saw online the 1018s were indeed on the front and the 1019s were on the back. Also, all my sway bar stuff was still attached as it should be.

So, back to my original question. Should I be considering larger sway bars, air bags, springs, or what? Am I able to solve my problem without reducing the benefits of the new shocks?

Thanks,
Paul
A solution to your problem is to install an "Ultra-Trac" rear track bar from Ultra RV! There are other brands available. Eliminates the sway & significantly reduces the "wallow"(lean) from side to side! You will find that this will be as much of an improvement as adding the Koni shocks!

www.ultrarv.com
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Old 10-05-2022, 08:35 AM   #9
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A rear track bar (panhard bar) primarily reduces sway or side to side movement. These are also used on coaches with a solid front axle.

An anti sway bar primarily reduces lean. These may be used on both front and rear suspension although some motorhome manufacturers just specify a chassis with only a front bar.

These are two completely different products intended to address two different handling issues; lean and sway.

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Originally Posted by Jabber Jaw View Post
A solution to your problem is to install an "Ultra-Trac" rear track bar from Ultra RV! There are other brands available. Eliminates the sway & significantly reduces the "wallow"(lean) from side to side! You will find that this will be as much of an improvement as adding the Koni shocks!

www.ultrarv.com
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Old 10-05-2022, 08:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Schweikle View Post
A rear track bar (panhard bar) primarily reduces sway or side to side movement.
A track bar/panhard rod attaches to the chassis/frame on one side and axle on the other. It allows full up and down suspension travel, but minimizes the side to side movement between chassis and axle.
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Old 10-06-2022, 06:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MathComp View Post
Just to confirm:

After crawling underneath, I saw that all four shocks had the "Koni" sticker right side up. I couldn't see part numbers, but according to the pictures I saw online the 1018s were indeed on the front and the 1019s were on the back. Also, all my sway bar stuff was still attached as it should be.

So, back to my original question. Should I be considering larger sway bars, air bags, springs, or what? Am I able to solve my problem without reducing the benefits of the new shocks?

Thanks,
Paul
Shock absorbers dampen the relative vertical motion between your axle and your coach frame. That motion can be caused by your wheel hitting a pot hole OR by you going around a corner and causing the frame to lean. If the damping in the shock absorber is very stiff it will limit the lean when cornering but will then not reduce the sudden pothole shock as effectively. What you want is a balance between the two extremes. The shocks are only one part of this equation. The sway bar is designed to reduce the sway without affecting the “ride” produced by the shocks, so I would think a heavier sway bar would be what you would need.
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Old 10-06-2022, 04:37 PM   #12
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For those suggesting the rear track bar, I already have one (see my signature), and it did make a big difference. I highly recommend one to those who are without.

After my drive home, I think Vibeman hit the nail on the head. I'm going to repeat that the smoothness in the ride is remarkable! Bridge joints, road imperfections, even individual potholes are no longer an issue. My guess is that I'm even leaning less when going around curves, just like NXR observed. To me, it was well worth the $1000 or so I spent on the shocks and installation.

The only problem comes when there are bumps in the road that are positioned in such a way to suddenly or repeatedly cause the coach to start leaning one way and then the other, which is what I call sway. In other words, the air conditioners on the roof are swinging back and forth from left to right while the center of the floor is not. These shocks just aren't dampening that movement nearly as well as the ones I had on before. For most driving, this isn't an issue, but for that rare time when it occurs, it feels like the coach is going to roll over on its side.

By the way, the one turn near my house that caused me to stop and check if my sway bars were still attached is actually quite bad. I drove that turn in my car yesterday, and it was even bad in that. It should really be repaved. The only other spot that caused me a problem was when I was leaving the campground and turning onto the main road. Since the main road was somewhat raised above the level of the campground road, I was going up a quick little hill basically one side at a time, and that caused the swaying again. I could see where an unpaved campground road with lots of holes could cause me lots of problems.

I suppose I'll start looking into larger sway bars. If others also have experience or opinions to add, I'd love to hear them. I'm definitely looking for that perfect balance that Vibeman alluded to.

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 10-06-2022, 05:01 PM   #13
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Paul,
I just did the Sumo's all round.
Standard blacks as specified up front.
P-32 yellows with the bottom donut cut off in the rear on the standard mounts.

This was discussed at length By "Yeloduster" and "Cam Jam" a couple of years back as the ultimate fix for body roll, and not having to drill the rear frame.
Plus, it is a whole lot less expensive.

It takes a bit of work, but you can still find this long discussion here on the forums.
Well worth a read.........

Mike in Colorado
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Old 10-06-2022, 06:04 PM   #14
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Another vote for Sumos!!!

Been there.. Done that
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