Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-14-2021, 02:12 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 28
Oil pump

Hello Forum! How hard would it be to replace an oil pump on ‘95 Dolphin with a f53 super duty engine? What would be the cost?
Liuhisn is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 02-14-2021, 08:16 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 6,916
You can call any service facility that will work on your engine. The industry typically uses a flate rate manual to determine the costs. Every job has a fixed number of hours each job will require. The number of man hours is determined by those who set up the manuals. It is supposed to be a fare amount of actual time required to perform the repair.

The dealers are supposed to use the flat rate time plus parts to arrive at the cost. Lets say the manual says to R&R your oil pump requires 3.5 hours of labor. You will be charged 3.5 hours of labor at the local technicians flat hourly rate (FHR). That varies from town to town and state to state based on the local cost of living. If the local hourly rate is $100 and hour you're charged $350 plus parts which are usually charged at retail price. Yes they make some $$$$ on the part(s). They count on doing that so don't offer to bring in your own parts. They'll just raise their rates to cover the parts. They will also not allow any warranty if you supply the parts.

The system is used in this way to speed up technicians and assure better quality repairs. If the technician is fast and does the job in 2 or 3 hours they still charge 3.5 hours. If the technician is slow and it takes 5 or 6 hours you are still charged the 3.5 hours. If the tech screws up and the oil pan leaks he/she fixes it on their time and no charge for labor or parts.

Most top technicians can log more than 8 hours of labor in an 8 hour day and therefore make more $$$$$. A good dealer tech can make $100,000 to $130,000 or more a year. They have to be at the top of their game. That requires constant training to stay up with all the changes in technology from year to year and model to model. They will be very skilled, very thorough and make few mistakes.

For us to guess would not really not do you much good. It depends on your local hourly rate per FRH.

When you call or even stop in and ask see what their FR is. That can vary in some towns. A dealer will be higher than an independent shop but an independent shop can do that job just as eaasily. It is not necessary to have a lift to do that job. Yes it might make it easier but then again maybe not. My student who owns his shop changed my AC compressor working on the dirt. He had it done in 90 minutes.

Get several estimates never hurts. Some shops may need work and will lower their rates some.

I have a student who does some of my work. He doesn't charge me his full flat rate just to give me a break. I also recommend a slew of folks to his shop because he is excellent and would never cheat his customers.

How difficult the job would be depends in how difficult it would be to get the oil pan off. The oil pump is towards the bottom of the oil pan in every engine I've ever worked on. Maybe that has changed. If it has the dealer has those changes for each model. The engine may have to be raised to get the pan off.

Any independent shop can bring up the steps needed for such a rapair. They might run a copy of those steps for you. There's two manufacturers who keep up with that information and are sold to independent dealers. One is called Mitchel On Demand and the other is called All Data. They are very expensive and require constant updates as things change. They also have all the TSB's for every vehicle. That's Technicians Service Bulletins. When a manufacturer has a problem they issues a TSB to alert the dealert as to the issue. Some TSB's are (SAFETY related) and the dealer must do them for free and others are not.
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2021, 01:18 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
GypsyR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 1,725
"Super duty engine"? Pretty sure you mean a 460 (AKA a 7.5)

Replacing the oil pump is easy. A couple of bolts and a distributor shaft. The actual problem is that it is inside the oil pan. Getting THAT off is the hard part because part of the chassis is right under it.

But anyway. You need to just talk to local repair shops for an estimate. Be aware the first thing they will (and should) ask is "Why do you want to replace the oil pump?" And many shops flat won't do that. They might be talked into taking your coach in and using their tools and experience to find out exactly what's wrong with your engine and what it actually needs though.

OK, why do you need an oil pump? It's possible you do but seems unlikely on the face of it. What are the symptoms?
GypsyR is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2021, 05:04 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
House Husband's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,176
There is nothing easy about changing the oil pump on your chassis. The engine will not lift high enough for the pan to clear the cross member. The cross member, which has the motor mount brackets on it, will unbolt but will not come out. You have to slide the cross member forward, which requires removing several bolts and nuts forward of the cross member.
Not a DIY rookie job.

Richard
__________________
95 Bounder 32H F53
460/528 Stroker Engine
House Husband is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2021, 09:21 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 28
Oil pump

Thanks for the info!
Liuhisn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2021, 07:16 AM   #6
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 28
Oil pump

Hello all. It has been awhile since my last post. To bring everyone up to speed. I have a 1995 Dolphin RV with a F53 superduty engine. A family friend was able to get it running, plugged fuel lines. While it was running after about 5 min, the oil pressure dropped. The engine was turned off and was not started. I was not there when this happened but was told of the event. According to the family friend that got it going, a “pin broke” on the shaft under the distributor cap. This shaft goes down to the oil pan. This seemed odd so I inquired with another mechanic and was told that the oil pump was not primed. Failure to do so will cause the problem just described. Apparently an easy fix. Has anyone else heard of this? Thanks

Hello all. This is an update on the oil pump issue with the RV. Yesterday, I had another mechanic come with me to the rv to give me his diagnosis. He primed the oil pump and turned it with his drill, charged the battery and realigned distributer cap and the RV started right up! The oil pressure gauge was pegged passed the L. So at this point, it could be the pump, oil pressure sensor or a faulty gauge. we replaced thee sensor with a brand new one and still got no oil pressure reading on the gauge. Oil was poured into the engine through the valve cover opening and we waited for a few minutes. The engine was started and an inspection camera was into the engine through the hose coming out of the valve cover and we both saw oil flowing. the question now is Is the oil pressure gauge faulty or the pump? If the pump were bad, would it still produce some kind of a reading on the gauge, 15-20 psi or lower? I am going to replace the gauge first. It was not moving at all. Any advice would be appreciated,thanks!
Liuhisn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2021, 08:29 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
jacwjames's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 9,969
When I was having a problem with oil pressure on my Ford 460 I installed a good old fashion pressure gauge in one of the oil ports that I could easily get to, no sensor to question. It did confirm I had a problem which ended up being a cracked mounting flange on the pick up tube.
__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD Cummins ISC 350 8.3L
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
jacwjames is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2021, 12:01 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,897
Screw a mechanical gauge into the oil pressure sensor port and VERIFY oil pressure.
__________________
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38FDDS. Ex: 1997 Safari Sahara. Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
wolfe10 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2021, 12:43 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Los Angeles area
Posts: 1,208
A trick that a friend did on his 1980s vintage 454 Chevy... He killed an engine by losing oil pressure and not noticing the gauge dropping to zero until the expensive noises started... Fortunately the new engine was free as he was 80,000 miles into a 100,000 mile warranty.

A little research showed that the oil pressure sensor on the low end Suburbans was a switch that drove an idiot light... the sensor on the higher end models was a variable resistor driving a gauge. The sensor screwed into the side of the block. On the other side of the block, in the same area was a threaded plug... we scavenged a switch sensor from the junkyard and removed the plug and screwed in the switch, and wired it to a noisemaker (in his case, a Cessna aircraft stall warning buzzer). His Suburban had a coolant temperature gauge, we also wired the buzzer to a coolant temperature switch that we also added.

So look around. There is probably a location on your engine where a second sensor could go, or even a mechanical gauge. That lets you keep the stock gauge and also have a peace-of-mind backup.

Mike
__________________
Semi-retired technogeek...electronics / computer / 2-way / ham radio... WA6ILQ (45+years)
1985 Fleetwood 32' Southwind (Chev P30/454/TH400), dubbed "Lazarus" by friends... I resurrected it from the dead...
AnotherMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2021, 01:07 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
GypsyR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 1,725
Older Ford gauges are pretty simple. Take the wire off the sender. Turn the ignition key to the "run" position. No need to actually start the engine. Take the end of the wire you took off and ground it to something bare metal on the engine. The block, usually. A second person watching the gauge should report it going ALL the way over when you do and return to zero as soon as you let it go. This will tell you that the gauge and its wiring are basically functional.
If nothing happens then you have to look at the wire you removed for breaks. The gauge itself and if the gauge is getting powered inside the cluster.

If after you figure out your issues you want to add a warning light, it's pretty easy. In the mid 1990's Ford used an oil sender extension on some F350 and F450 trucks with 7.5's and 5.8's that was drilled and tapped for both. Hard to find these days but it's where I got mine. I believe there are now new aftermarket ones sold.
Here's one in use on my '67 Mustang's engine. Big sender for the gauge, small sender for the light.

I have another one I keep for test purposes. Put it in with the stock gauge and then add my shop gauge and I can see what psi I actually have and correlate that to whatever the stock gauge is pointing at. The only two readings I want then are idling hot and what it has hot at about 4000 RPM. In-between and what it reads cold aren't all that useful to know.
GypsyR is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2021, 09:15 PM   #11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 28
Are you in Ca?
Liuhisn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2021, 09:31 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Los Angeles area
Posts: 1,208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liuhisn View Post
Are you in Ca?
And who is that question directed to?
So far there are 5 of us here...

Mike
__________________
Semi-retired technogeek...electronics / computer / 2-way / ham radio... WA6ILQ (45+years)
1985 Fleetwood 32' Southwind (Chev P30/454/TH400), dubbed "Lazarus" by friends... I resurrected it from the dead...
AnotherMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2021, 11:36 PM   #13
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 28
Oil pump

Hello Here is an update for the oil pump issue. I replaced the oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge and still did not get any pressure! I did notice a more pronounced rhythmic ticking sound coming from the engine. I immediately shut the engine off and thought about the situation. I realized that the last time I was there, the mechanic poured some oil into the valve cover through the pvc opening and had turned the oil pump drive shaft with an electric drill. This time I was by myself and did not do this. The clicking sound may be a stuck lifter. In theory, some SeaFoam in the crankcase and then turning the oil pump drive shaft with a drill help loosen any gunk buildup? Any thoughts?
Liuhisn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2021, 11:47 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Skip426's Avatar


 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 24,886
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liuhisn View Post
Hello Here is an update for the oil pump issue. I replaced the oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge and still did not get any pressure! I did notice a more pronounced rhythmic ticking sound coming from the engine. I immediately shut the engine off and thought about the situation. I realized that the last time I was there, the mechanic poured some oil into the valve cover through the pvc opening and had turned the oil pump drive shaft with an electric drill. This time I was by myself and did not do this. The clicking sound may be a stuck lifter. In theory, some SeaFoam in the crankcase and then turning the oil pump drive shaft with a drill help loosen any gunk buildup? Any thoughts?
Perhaps , attaching this post to your original thread would help , because right now all I have is questions .

What are you working on ?
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
Skip426 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
pump



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Home made oil pump for refilling oil on F53 triplewide Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 0 11-14-2018 07:35 PM
Oil Pump Oil Pan Beowulf2 Cummins Engines 1 10-16-2016 03:57 PM
Low oil pressure | erratic oil pressure | inconsistant oil pressure GlennLever Cummins Engines 45 08-28-2014 09:24 AM
CAT C9 HEUI, oil pump, oil cooler problems jpkimmey Caterpillar Engine Forum 8 10-22-2012 12:39 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.