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Old 07-13-2021, 07:51 AM   #1
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Persistent vibration on 24K chassis

I have a 24K GVW F53, a 2013 model carrying a 37' house. It is new to me, and had a vibration on the test drive, so had front wheels balanced. That reduced the vibration, but didn't resolve it. I then had the rear wheels balanced, and that made basically no difference. It appears to be front-end related, but what else can cause out-of-balance vibration when the wheels have been balanced?
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Old 07-13-2021, 07:58 AM   #2
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Drive shaft can cause vibration, either out of balance or out of phase.


I had to have my radiator replaced after road debris took it out. Has to be towed the Cummins shop. After getting the work done and driving it home I noticed a slight vibration and checked the drive shaft. The mechanics installed it out of phase. Pulled it and put it back in phase and all was good.
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Old 07-13-2021, 08:26 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceman-31D View Post
I have a 24K GVW F53, a 2013 model carrying a 37' house. It is new to me, and had a vibration on the test drive, so had front wheels balanced. That reduced the vibration, but didn't resolve it. I then had the rear wheels balanced, and that made basically no difference. It appears to be front-end related, but what else can cause out-of-balance vibration when the wheels have been balanced?
Does it do it all of the time or only in the first few miles until the tires warm up?
Does it come and go with different speeds or is it always there?
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Old 07-13-2021, 08:36 AM   #4
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Check tires for RUN-OUT.


If over .035", correct it. You can balance an out of round tire, but it WILL still vibrate.


Ford did have an issue with excessive play between wheel and studs. Centering "kits" are available.
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Old 07-13-2021, 02:36 PM   #5
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You can use a smart phone app to determine to the peak frequency of the vibration, if its 10-15hz at highway speed probably wheels / tires. If its 40-50hz then its driveshaft.

I good shop will use a real EVM to test vibration frequency and narrow down. I had a vibration, used app, it was around 11hz so I knew it was wheels, Ford dealer used EVM had same conclusion, then road force balanced and indexed all wheels which measured each one, brought all but one into spec, the one they could not completely get into spec would have required a new tire, I skipped it, vibration gone.

Key is frequency, will quickly narrow down whats causing vibration based on rpm of engine / driveshaft / wheels.
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Old 07-14-2021, 06:25 AM   #6
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Does it do it all of the time or only in the first few miles until the tires warm up?
Does it come and go with different speeds or is it always there?
It is the same whether the tires are warm or cold. It is very bad at 55mph, less at 60mph, then bad again at 65mph. Sometimes while cruising along it will get bad, then almost disappear...!
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:24 AM   #7
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It is the same whether the tires are warm or cold. It is very bad at 55mph, less at 60mph, then bad again at 65mph. Sometimes while cruising along it will get bad, then almost disappear...!
As mentioned above. You may have a tire out of round or a wheel off center from the hub.
Jack up a front wheel off the ground and spin it while watching the crown of the tread. Sometimes it helps to place an object close to the tread so that you can see any variance.
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:54 AM   #8
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Where is the vibration??? There have been countless threads concerning vibrations that occur at certain speeds. Yes there are several locations these may occur but based on all the dozens of threads my bet is the tires. WHY? The majority of the other spinning objects that can vibrate are computer balanced by adding or removing (drilling holes) weight. For those to go out of balance a welded weight would have to fall off or mud would have to be added. Both are very unlikely to happen. If they do happen you should spot the mud. These items include: rims, wheel hubs, rotors, driveshafts, torque converter, differential gears and probably some I've forgotten.

Yes a U-Joint can fail and wobble cauing a vibration but those are usually obvious if a tech know what to loook for. Yes a U-joint can be installed 180 degrees from where it was but that means some U-joint R&R had to have been done. Or the driveshaft was removed and installed 180 degrees out. All of those things would be known if there are repair records.
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Old 07-14-2021, 09:18 AM   #9
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I've attached a TSB covering vibration that dates back to 2000. The methods, procedures and equipment mentioned in the TSB still apply. Back then, Ford had no idea what the size of the holes were in the wheels. There were 4 different size holes for the lugs. The wheels were neither hub centric nor lug centric. That was corrected for the 2002 F53 chassis.

There are two things I recommend - find a shop that uses the "road force" wheel balancers made by Hunter Engineering (https://www.hunter.com/find-equipment/) and if that doesn't get rid of the vibration, try a set of CentraMatic wheel balancing rings (https://www.centramatic.com/wheel-ba...us-Motor-Homes). I purchased my previous MH new and after calling the Ford Motorhome Assistance Center (the phone number is in your owner's manual) they had me take it to a dealer 125 miles from my home because it was the closest one that had access to the equipment required and was actually willing to work on a class A MH. I live on the western side of St Louis and had to drive through St Louis into south central Illinois to get to that dealer. I had the TSB done both in and out of warranty. Many wheels were replaced and more Goodyear G670RV tires were rejected than I care to remember. The MH I have now has the same 20,500 lb chassis and after having the tires road force balanced and adding the CentraMatic dynamic wheel balancing rings to all 4 corners, I'm finally going down the road without any vibrations.
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File Type: pdf Ford TSB 00-21-09 Vibration (Original).pdf (80.7 KB, 9 views)
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Old 07-15-2021, 05:07 AM   #10
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Thanks guys. Sounds like I need a high-end tire shop to look at these front wheels again, and look at centering, balance, and run-out of a bad tire.
Thanks again.
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Old 07-26-2021, 06:07 PM   #11
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How can you tell if the drive shaft is "out of phase"
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Old 07-26-2021, 08:05 PM   #12
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How can you tell if the drive shaft is "out of phase"
Download the TSB I uploaded. The frequency of the vibration easily will tell you if it's coming from the driveshaft or from the tires. The driveshaft is turning over 5 times faster than the tires (depending on the rear end ratio).
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Old 08-05-2021, 05:01 PM   #13
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How can you tell if the drive shaft is "out of phase"
Very simply. Each of the u joint crosses (the inner part) need to be parallel to each other. Jack up one rear wheel REMEMBER TO BLOCK THE THE OTHER REAR WHEEL since the coach can now move. Turn the driveshaft by hand until a joint has the caps on the top and bottom. All the other joints should be on the same plane.
The most common cause of being out of phase is reassembling the slip yoke incorrectly after a repair or towing.
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Old 08-05-2021, 09:33 PM   #14
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The only problem I ever knew being "out of phase" would cause is making it hard to grease both U-joints without turning the driveshaft. Being out of phase wouldn't cause any vibration problems. No matter if both grease fittings are turned, they're going to spin in the same orbit - nothing will be out of balance. Even some replacement U-joints don't have grease fittings so it would be impossible to tell what phase they were in.
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