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Old 12-04-2020, 05:39 PM   #1
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Plugs

Have 2001 v10 noticed some of the plug boots cracking cause of age got new coils with boots , would you replace plugs noting the problem with this year plugs. Have under 50 thousand miles on it runs very well it’s just 21years old
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Old 12-04-2020, 05:59 PM   #2
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Nope. Leave them be.

Ford says they are good until over 100,000 miles.
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Old 12-04-2020, 06:05 PM   #3
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Plugs

Twinboats is right. Plus you risk damaging the threads in the heads. Notoriously bad about ejecting plugs after a plug change. Not enough threads. Those heads were updated in ‘03 to address that issue. But you probably knew that already.
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Old 12-05-2020, 08:26 AM   #4
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As someone who lost a plug, I would say change or retorque to 28 lbs. our # 4 plug blew out. Most of the time it is the #4 plug. If you change plugs make sure they are torqued to 28 lbs. our shop never had a plug blow if it had been torqued to 28 lbs.
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Old 12-05-2020, 08:34 AM   #5
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As someone who lost a plug, I would say change or retorque to 28 lbs. our # 4 plug blew out. Most of the time it is the #4 plug. If you change plugs make sure they are torqued to 28 lbs. our shop never had a plug blow if it had been torqued to 28 lbs.

Have not worked on the Ford V 10, but have LOTS of experience with installing spark plugs in aluminum heads (air cooled VW's).



We always used anti-seize on the threads before torquing the plugs (yes to slightly less torque than the "dry" spec).


What is Ford's recommendation visa via anti-seize?
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Old 12-05-2020, 10:58 AM   #6
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Have not worked on the Ford V 10, but have LOTS of experience with installing spark plugs in aluminum heads (air cooled VW's).



We always used anti-seize on the threads before torquing the plugs (yes to slightly less torque than the "dry" spec).


What is Ford's recommendation visa via anti-seize?


You are definitely supposed to use anti-seize. And my understanding is the torque is 14 foot pounds not 28 and some say is supposed to be done while the engine is hot.
And although it’s aluminum heads it’s still different than most as in there is only four threads or so, so on top of all the precautions there is the added poor engineered product, And potential that it will pull what’s left of the threads out just changing them. So my recommendation is don’t change them unless it’s missing and coilpacks and wires don’t fix it.
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Old 12-05-2020, 11:10 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
Have not worked on the Ford V 10, but have LOTS of experience with installing spark plugs in aluminum heads (air cooled VW's).



We always used anti-seize on the threads before torquing the plugs (yes to slightly less torque than the "dry" spec).


What is Ford's recommendation visa via anti-seize?
They don't seize, they blow out and rip out the two threads that hold them in.

The latter V10s plugs broke in half because the used more threads but 2 piece plugs.
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Old 12-05-2020, 11:18 AM   #8
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A good friend just went through this on his 2000 V10 Excursion. I warned him to only change coil packs and to leave the plugs be. His shop he’s used forever “swore” They knew how to change his plugs and have never had one spit out. Long story short 2weeks later number one and number 2 spit out he had them repaired by my suggested shop and he sold his truck not knowing if eight more were going to eventually fail. The shop owner could not even tell him what he torqued them at and would not warranty the work so now he does not use them anymore.
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Old 12-05-2020, 05:28 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Rob_M View Post
You are definitely supposed to use anti-seize. And my understanding is the torque is 14 foot pounds not 28 and some say is supposed to be done while the engine is hot.
And although it’s aluminum heads it’s still different than most as in there is only four threads or so, so on top of all the precautions there is the added poor engineered product, And potential that it will pull what’s left of the threads out just changing them. So my recommendation is don’t change them unless it’s missing and coilpacks and wires don’t fix it.
According to my 2006 shop manual, torque is 25 ft lbs.
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Old 12-05-2020, 05:38 PM   #10
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According to my 2006 shop manual, torque is 25 ft lbs.
2006 is after the plug blow out problem was fixed, by a redesigning the head.

You can't just use the specs of a 2006 on the older engines.
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Old 12-05-2020, 09:47 PM   #11
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2006 is after the plug blow out problem was fixed, by a redesigning the head.

You can't just use the specs of a 2006 on the older engines.
True; but I did find this regarding a company that fixes those heads for a living. They recommend 28 ft lbs. See question 51.
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Old 12-06-2020, 06:30 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rob_M View Post
You are definitely supposed to use anti-seize. And my understanding is the torque is 14 foot pounds not 28 and some say is supposed to be done while the engine is hot.
And although it’s aluminum heads it’s still different than most as in there is only four threads or so, so on top of all the precautions there is the added poor engineered product, And potential that it will pull what’s left of the threads out just changing them. So my recommendation is don’t change them unless it’s missing and coilpacks and wires don’t fix it.
I normally say to follow factory specs. However this is a known problem. The change to 28 ft lbs is a proven repair. I have never seen a plug failure using 28 lbs. torque.
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Old 12-06-2020, 06:20 PM   #13
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I normally say to follow factory specs. However this is a known problem. The change to 28 ft lbs is a proven repair. I have never seen a plug failure using 28 lbs. torque.


Well that’s good to know because in the past no one was sure if the problem was over-torque or under.
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Old 12-07-2020, 11:33 AM   #14
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Left plug’s alone just changed all the coils and boots
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