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NickJGJ · 12-29-2021, 03:53 PM

Good afternoon I have been a member since 2013 but do not post much I had taken quite a long hiatus from camping since kids have grown up and moved out.
Anyway to my problem it is a 95 ford f53 NEUMAR MOUNTAIN AIR with about 80000 which I purchased in 2013 was running and driving great until it was parked while one of my adult children lived in it for a couple of years, after which it would not start so at that time it turned out to be a fuel pump I dropped the tank replaced it and all was well that was a couple of years ago anyway fast forward to now I am located in Miami and it is my intention to move the motorhome to North Carolina so I have made a bunch of necessary repairs ( radiator, roof , floor, water pump tires etc etc.) I thought all was well drove about 10 miles and the brakes failed so turned around and limped home. Up until this point the MH was running great but on the way back started to bog down like a fuel or air starvation problem. I fixed the brakes and addressed the bogging issue with a tune up, well brakes are fixed but not the bogging issue. I checked the fuel pressure it was 30 at the fuel rail and did not fluctuate thought that was good so bought a code reader and although the check engine light did not light up it was throwing a code of 213 (spout circuit open) I started reading the threads here and ended up replacing the ECU, the distributor, and the coil I also bought a used shop manual and breakout box and ran through all the tests which check out ok. so thinking that maybe it was the distributor that I had replaced and had maybe got the base timing off I set the base timing using the method that Subford used crawling through the pass side wheel well to see TDC and marking new timing marks on the bottom of the engine and setting the timing after which the error code disappeared but guess what? yup engine still bogs so started focusing on the fuel system again now this time I put the gauge on and only get 15 psi was just wondering is there anything else I should try before replacing the pump again? which by the way only has about 100 miles on it and if I do, what is the best unit to replace it with? I am getting tired of banging my head on the wall.

. Any advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much for all of the advice I have already received via the threads here they have been invaluable in guiding me through many projects on this thing. I am mechanically inclined as I was a 63B vehicle mechanic in the Army back in the good old days of carburetors, no computers all we needed was a socket set a few wrenches and a hammer, a big hammer.

GypsyR · 12-29-2021, 04:28 PM

Here's a pretty long thread if you're interested.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/rela...es-508562.html

Short take from me is you're supposed to see close to 40 psi at the rail. If it's been sitting a long time I'd suspect clogged fuel pump filters from the same "old gas" detritus that plagued me for a while. If you pull off your filter that's on the frame rail (and easy to get to) you can shake the fuel out of the feed end. If you see a fair amount of brown stuff come out that looks like rust powder then it's a pretty sure bet the filters inside the tank are gummed up. The inner one that attaches to the pump itself in particular.

NickJGJ · 12-30-2021, 08:19 AM

GypsyR Thank you for the information sounds like you went through the same thing also you are confirming what I was thinking. I am going to try and get my hands on the same pump you had success with and hopefully get this over with.
Much appreciated.

craigd853 · 12-30-2021, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickJGJ

GypsyR Thank you for the information sounds like you went through the same thing also you are confirming what I was thinking. I am going to try and get my hands on the same pump you had success with and hopefully get this over with.
Much appreciated.

If you find that the filter on the fuel pump is clogged you should drop and clean the tank otherwise your going to have the same issue again. The ethanol used in gas is what causes all of this stuff to happen. Make sure as well that there are no fuel filters outside the gas tank. If your fuel pickup screen is clogged you can usually clean them with carburator cleaner. Me personally though for piece of mind would just replace the pump as this is a fair amount of work and good piece of mind. Hope this helps and good luck. Let us know what you find out.

NickJGJ · 04-17-2022, 12:42 PM

Hey guys sorry to not post for so long have not had time to fix it yet but quick question how do you guys drain the tank before you drop it? ith the sharp turns the filler line takes I cant get a hose in to siphon and I purchased an inline pump that pulls a 20' suction lift and put it in place of the filter but was only to get about 10 gals out of the 70 that's there, any suggestions? How would you get the in tank pump to run without the engine running? where would you bypass that?
Thanks in advance for your help.

subford · 04-17-2022, 12:48 PM

Short pin #2 to pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn the key to the run position.
The pump will run as long as the key is in the run position.

/

NickJGJ · 04-17-2022, 12:57 PM

Thank you for the info and quick response much appreciated

GypsyR · 04-18-2022, 08:20 AM

I used a pump that runs off an electric drill. Access to the tank isn't a problem. You have to disconnect the filler hose from the tank anyway if you plan to drop the tank, so do that first. Then feeding the pump's pickup hose into the tank opening is easy. Actually I didn't do that myself. Since I was using a 1500 pound rated motorcycle jack to lower the tank I just did so. With about 60 gallons of gas in it. Then emptied it with my pump setup when it was down.
There's a few different approaches that can be taken, whatever suits you.

NickJGJ · 04-20-2022, 12:20 PM

good afternoon, I would like to thank everyone for the help I was able to slowly get all the fuel out of the tank and I am now going to drop it clean it and replace the fuel pump my question is what pump should I use? I saw the recommendation for a pump from GypsyR but I can't find the one he referred to any suggestions for a unit that won't crap out in 2 years? And yes, I bought a big speaker magnet for inside the tank and will not place it near the float Thank you GypsyR for the sage advice.

GypsyR · 04-20-2022, 11:29 PM

What I would do now would be buy a pump directly from Walbro. While the one I have seems acceptable what I wanted and ordered was a Walbro. For some reason it didn't occur to me to see if Walbro sold direct at the time. They do, and the prices are competitive too.
Their site is having issues at the time I am writing this but it is walbrofuelpumps.com
They have another site that is more focused on their carburetor business. It doesn't have the full listing and application like the first site but they do make mention of the pumps and have contact information.
https://shop.walbro.com/collections/products

I honestly don't know the real value of the magnet I put in the tank. It was a spur of the moment idea. Last time I was in there it had accumulated a small fuzzy growth of something metallic though. Also it was free and doesn't take up much room in there.

NickJGJ · 04-21-2022, 09:07 AM

GypsyR
Thank you for the information do you know the model number of the pump and you are right their site is not working for the pumps only carb stuff but maybe with the model number I can find it elsewhere.
Thanks again

GypsyR · 04-21-2022, 12:27 PM

I didn't save the info or can't find it. I recall it being very easy to look up on Walbro's website. If only that was working. One reason I went there to start with was because I got word that there are fake/counterfeit Walbros out there and I darn sure didn't want one of those.

One thing I noticed shopping for a pump is that everybody will say they have one but most often the picture they show is incorrect, a dead giveaway that you don't want to shop with them. Look at the pump outlet. The correct style is smooth, like a clipped off soda straw, The incorrect ones have instead a nipple or bulge at the end of the outlet for a hose to go on. The Ford setup uses a push on piece of plastic and seal, not a hose.