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Old 07-06-2013, 02:54 PM   #1
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Removing motor? HELP

Where should we start looking for info on R & R motor we have a Rexall Airbus with a blown motor. Its a 1997 F53 chassis
Any help wopuld be great.
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Old 07-06-2013, 04:53 PM   #2
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Should try the search feature. I know there is at least one long thread on the subject.

Do you have a drivers door?
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:36 AM   #3
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Should try the search feature. I know there is at least one long thread on the subject.

Do you have a drivers door?
Drivers door? yes we do.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:10 AM   #4
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Drivers door? yes we do.
Then it's very possible to use a "cherry picker" to lift the motor from the doghouse and take it out that door. Of course certain parts will have to be removed first. This is the best/easiest way. Otherwise, it's removing the front cap, or remove front suspension and drop out the bottom.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:39 AM   #5
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When I helped a buddy do his Winnie the folks at the factory said the only way to do it was to remove the bumper, grille, rad and other obstacles in the path of the engine.


He did that and then with me on my tractor with a gin pole in place of the bucket on the front end loader we just slid the engine and trans straight forward as a single unit. All in all it was very simple to do.

I can't imagine how you'd ever fit the motor through the dog house hole, let alone how you'd get anything in the coach to use to lift the engine out.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:49 AM   #6
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Our dealership always used a garage for engine changes. They would jack up the front, remove the suspension, and drop the engine out the bottom. They said it was by far the easiest way.
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:21 PM   #7
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Are you going to do this yourself, or are you speculating on how a shop might want to do it?

As already stated, the possibilities are through the top or front or bottom. All have advantages and disadvantages. I have removed and replaces engines on 2 Winnebagos, one Ford and one Chevrolet. In both cases I came out the top. Here's my thoughts on the options.

1 Bottom. needs VERY heavy duty lifting gear and tools, which not everybody has.
I was also concerned about frame rails twisting when crossmember was removed. However with this method the Coach manufacturer hasn't put obstacles in your way.

2 Front. front cap can come off way more easily than I imagined, although that depends on the coach. You are very dependent on how much room the coach builders left you vertically between the radiator crossmember and the top of the firewall (which won't come off). I didn't think there was enough room on the Ford.

3 Top. This depends on 2 things the coach builders did. First the size of the engine hatch or doghouse (and I think the Rexhall ones are quite small), and whether you have a drivers door. In either case, expect to remove the heads separately. Winnebagos have big enough doghouses with the heads removed. Chevy had a drivers door, and it came out that way on an engine crane. Ford did not, so I built an A-frame on the front seat bases to support an I-beam running aft to the side door. 2 front supports, one rear one with big load spreader on floor. used a chain hoist on a trolley, lifted engine out without heads, trolley aft to door, transfer to engine crane.

I asked a shop first and they didn't know, but thought they'd have the glass shop come and remove a windshield. Lots of strange ideas out there.

take your engine cover off and post a photo of the engine through the opening from above.

What happened to the motor anyway?
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:59 AM   #8
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Or you could take it out the window as Jkountz did in the photos below that I have stolen from him.

" Replacing the engine
Member Album - Owner: Jkountz - 6 items
I bought my Winne with a blown 460 and replaced it with a factory fresh motor. These are some before and during shots."













/
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:46 PM   #9
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Thanks looks like we will pull it out the drivers door.
The door is 31" wide motor is 23" the dog house is plenty wide enough to pull it out with the heads on it.
I am going to rig up my forklift with boom and may have to remove the steering wheel just to get the extra clarance however may not even have to do that.
Talked to the Ford M/H chassis people this year model will not drop out the bottom and the cap on it sticks back 34".
Drivers door is going to be it.
Plan on taking pictures and posting them as we go along.
My Rexall airbus is every thing we want in a M/H the and am real happy with it, their service sucks once you have one they really don't want to talk to you.
Thanks everyone still willing to listen to any ideals that you guiys may have.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:00 PM   #10
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When I did the Chevy Winnebago, we found that taking the wheel off wasn't enough, we had to remove the whole column. No real problem, but it would have been easier if we'd started out that way. We also had to remove the driver's door.

Another tip is to check that the block coolant drain plugs actually let coolant out. One of mine was not drilled through to the cooling passages, and so removing the plug drained no coolant. That happened halfway to the side door, and was the only snag in the whole procedure.

If you are rebuilding the engine yourself, there are some useful engine mods you can have done.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:09 PM   #11
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Or you could take it out the window as Jkountz did in the photos below that I have stolen from him./
Thanks for posting that. I thought I'd seen that before, but on reflection th pictures I had seen before show someone who'd modified their crane by welding a step into the lower horizontal beams, so that it rested partly on the raised floor around the doghouse, and partly on the main floor level. tilting the crane like that seems a bit precarious for me. My A frame arrangement was rock solid, and I did the whole removal by myself in complete safety.

Also i don't believe any of my windows are tall enough to accomplish what they did.

Oh, and another tip. If you get a friend to help you stabilize the transmission on your transmission jack, make sure they don't grip it by the MLPS sensor. They aren't strong enough.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #12
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I am using the forklift with long extensions should be best and in looking at the steering may drop the shaft and wheel to start out with, the door will come off just to get it out of the way.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:08 PM   #13
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It's a start? Dog house coming out 1st will strip fuel injection off before starting to pull it think we can leave most of it together
New Fan clutch 435 miles went out should have left the old one on it

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Old 07-11-2013, 07:28 AM   #14
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Wow, that's an even smaller access cover than I was expecting. I trust you'll be able to remove the sides of that "box" and leave yourself a bigger "hole in the floor" to take th engine out through. Seems possible judging by the way th carpet is attached to the box. It's probably great for soundproofing though.

What happened to the engine that you have to take it out?
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