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Old 06-21-2021, 06:55 PM   #1
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Ruptured Fuel Line

I pesky squirrel has chewed through the high pressure fuel line that feeds from near the transmission to the left fuel rail. Lots and lots of gas spewing out when the switch is turned on so not in driving condition.


Couple questions, where would I go to get a replacement fuel line? Does it require a special tool? Who would I take it to to get it repaired?
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:55 PM   #2
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I pesky squirrel has chewed through the high pressure fuel line that feeds from near the transmission to the left fuel rail. Lots and lots of gas spewing out when the switch is turned on so not in driving condition.


Couple questions, where would I go to get a replacement fuel line? Does it require a special tool? Who would I take it to to get it repaired?
Is it a hard line or a flexible fuel line? What year chassis?
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:29 PM   #3
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2014 F53, it is a nylon fuel line, runs from the left side frame rail up to the left side Fuel Rail. I thought about using a doorman union repair, but I am selling it and want to fix it right, No one wants to work on motor homes and this would be an easy DIY repair, if not for my knees. I do need to find the hose though.
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
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2014 F53, it is a nylon fuel line, runs from the left side frame rail up to the left side Fuel Rail. I thought about using a doorman union repair, but I am selling it and want to fix it right, No one wants to work on motor homes and this would be an easy DIY repair, if not for my knees. I do need to find the hose though.
So you can disconnect at the left fuel rail? Going the other way where is the nearest junction? The fuel line on an f53 Runs inside the left frame rail, the filter is in the rail behind the drivers seat. There must be something or somewhere that the steel line connects to the nylon line.

Find a Ford dealer that can look up that fuel line. You might be able to buy it on Rockauto or the Ford dealer. They can't be much different than a F550, F450, or F350 with the V10 engine.

I just looked on Rockauto, the list a fuel injector line for the F550 with V10 for $103
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:30 PM   #5
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The local Ford Truck service center had it for $110, so I ordered it. I might just have it towed to that same service center so they can go over the engine and make sure nothing else has been chewed on.

When towing an F53, should the towing company remove the drive shaft?

Thanks
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Old 06-22-2021, 10:35 PM   #6
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The local Ford Truck service center had it for $110, so I ordered it. I might just have it towed to that same service center so they can go over the engine and make sure nothing else has been chewed on.

When towing an F53, should the towing company remove the drive shaft?

Thanks
Unless they hook it from the rear then they should at least disconnect it from the rear diff and support it underneath during the tow.
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Old 06-25-2021, 05:18 AM   #7
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I ordered a new fuel line assembly, and was able to remove and replace in about 3 hours. It was a PITA to do so but is done. Now to get it sold before the squirrels chew on it again.
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Old 06-26-2021, 12:27 PM   #8
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Unless they hook it from the rear then they should at least disconnect it from the rear diff and support it underneath during the tow.

It looks like the OP has a solution, so I don't have to worry much about thread hijack.


When my F-53 was towed, the driveshaft was removed, and as I rode in the tow truck, I asked why they always hooked it from the front.



With a gas RV there are 3 reasons:


1 Gas RVs usually have a large rear overhang, and tow truck equipment to hook to the rear axle would be quite special.


2 This rear overhang often is made with a chassis extension that uses C channel of lesser thickness than the main rails, so the extension may not be strong enough to allow hooking up from the rear of the extended chassis.


3 A consequence (or design feature) of this long overhang is that weight behind the axle unloads the front axle, and it is usual for the rear axle to be rated for roughly twice the load of the front. So if the tow truck hooked to the rear of the chassis (assuming it was strong enough), then the front axle would then be supporting about half the weight of the RV, not the usual one third. This would lead to tire blowouts, or worse.


So it was an educational ride home for me, that day. Be aware of this if you get a less informed tow truck driver than I got.
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Old 06-26-2021, 03:53 PM   #9
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Good info to know. I know my old Class C had the long overhang with less robust steel than the original chassis frame. My Storm however has a full size Chassis frame all the way to the town hitch.
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Old 06-27-2021, 08:17 AM   #10
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Consider a MOBILE MECHANIC? You can discuss skills/ fees w/ them before committing? Cheaper than a tow, I suspect if you can get a good one. I put a few in my phone contacts after phone conversations, and also a couple of RV Mobile Techs, but have not yet use either. RV Techs do NOT do chassis/ engine work, and mechanics do not do RV systems work.
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Old 07-07-2021, 07:02 PM   #11
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Just how do you go about finding a good mobile mechanic, I have not had much luck with that?
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