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winnie32v · 11-27-2016, 04:40 AM

I have recently purchased a new Continuous Operating Solenoid for my 2000 Ford Chassis, 2001 Winnebago Motorhome. I was in a bit of a jam since I had to replace it 3 days before I left for Florida. Picked one up at NAPA for $48.00. Could have got the same one on EBay for $17, free ship but didn't have the time.

So, about the "Bad" one that I removed.
I finally had some time to look this over and being a 'fix-it' guy, I decided to see what went wrong with it.
I did a bench test...Attached ground to base, 12v to the terminal and checked continuity through the side terminals. Nice loud "Click" but NO electric going through the unit.

Next step, take it apart.
I secured the solenoid in my vice by holding the base clip assy.
Next, I used a small tipped screwdriver and carefully began to 'loosen' the crimp which holds the Top on. I continued going around the crimp, lifting the crimp as I went.
About 1/2 way around, I was able to 'lift' the top off of the base unit.

Inside there was a piston with a copper washer and two copper stationary terminals. Contact between the terminals and the washer would complete the circuit.
Simply, the base on the solenoid is just an electromagnet that, when energized, pulls the copper washer down to complete the circuit between the two stationary terminals. DONE.

The only problem that I could find was that both the two stationary terminals as well as the copper washer were BLACK, and must have not been able to conduct a current through the solenoid. NO pitting or scaring was observed, all surfaces were smooth.

SO, I removed the clip from the plunger (see photo), cleaned the copper washer with my wire wheel.
Next, I took some sandpaper and cleaned the two stationary terminals.

Put the copper washer back on the piston, secured by the clip and spring, used a Q-Tip to applied a light coat of dielectric to all of the contact surfaces, inserted the spring/piston assy and reattached the top.

Bench test showed full continuity through the solenoid.
Now I have a backup if the one in the motor home goes bad.

See photos below for my "Fix".
Any questions, please feel free to contact me.

Rockwood27 · 11-27-2016, 06:09 AM

It's a common problem with some older Winnebagos. I also took mine apart and found a similar condition. Which NAPA solenoid did you get. Mine was P/N ST95 from NAPA.

winnie32v · 11-27-2016, 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockwood27

It's a common problem with some older Winnebagos. I also took mine apart and found a similar condition. Which NAPA solenoid did you get. Mine was P/N ST95 from NAPA.

Yes, I got the same one. Rated at 80 amp, if I remember correctly.
So far it seems to be working ok....from Pa. to Florida.

Next test will be from Fla. to Pa. in March/April.
The rest of the time it mostly sits.

YC1 · 11-27-2016, 06:42 AM

Thanks for sharing that. Great pictures and description.

Note that you can take those large terminals out of the case easily and hit the bench grinder using the brush side of course. I believe the washer can be turned over too.

I use a bench vice to re-crimp the thing. When installing mount it with the crimp cap down so no moisture can get inside.

Rockwood27 · 11-27-2016, 06:42 AM

Yes....life is tough when your MH has to sit in FL for the winter months! I'm also in FL for the winter. One, maybe small, difference with my setup, is I have the solenoid charging four 6V GC2 batteries plus the chassis battery, while traveling. So far, all seems to be working well on its maiden voyage with the new solenoid and two additional house batteries.

twinboat · 11-27-2016, 07:14 AM

There are " longer lasting" solenoids, with silver contacts out there.

Here is one.
http://www.partdeal.com/cole-hersee-...6NAaAk5D8P8HAQ

Rockwood27 · 11-27-2016, 07:53 AM

Twinboat, how do you know if the solenoid you referenced is "longer lasting" than the NAPA version? NAPA also offers a silver contact version of the solenoid. I suspect the NAPA one and the one you referenced are made by the same nanufacturer. My original copper contact solenoid lasted 10 years. Without lots of empirical test results, I don't think we can answer that question.

twinboat · 11-27-2016, 08:32 AM

I don't know that silver contact will last longer !

That's why it was in quotes.

Randalpho · 11-27-2016, 04:18 PM

Not just Winnebago's, I used a Borg Warner S603 from my local O'Reilly's on my Fleetwood, cost me 40 bucks.

Silver contacts, 80 amp continuous and 200 amp surge.

I also took my old one apart and cleaned it for a spare.

Post #38

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/chas...-274654-3.html

House Husband · 11-27-2016, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randalpho

Not just Winnebago's, I used a Borg Warner S603 from my local O'Reilly's on my Fleetwood, cost me 40 bucks.

Silver contacts, 80 amp continuous and 200 amp surge.

I also took my old one apart and cleaned it for a spare.

Post #38

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/chas...-274654-3.html

Can you provide any documentation as to the material (silver) content of the S603.

Richard

Randalpho · 11-28-2016, 11:03 AM

The Borg Warner site states copper contacts but I have a catalog from 2004 stating silver contacts. I called their catalog help line and the guy I asked to clarify stated silver. It still states copper on their web site.

House Husband · 11-28-2016, 01:15 PM

Thanks Randalpho,

That explains the confusion about the S630 relay. In the past there has been on going jabber, on other forums, about the contact material of the S630 relay.
A few yeard ago, I purchased a S630, just to take it apart. The color of the contact material did not indicate silver content. I'll assume the hight copper content would hide any silver color in the relay. And the beat goes on. GRIN

Richard

Tricolor · 11-29-2016, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winnie32v

Any questions, please feel free to contact me.

I have a question regarding possible maintenance of the solenoid:

Instead of taking it apart, could I drill a hole into it and spray some electronic cleaner, then seal the hole with silicone?
Where would you drill the hole?

House Husband · 11-29-2016, 09:23 PM

Tricolor,
It's next to impossible to spray a mechanic out of a can. They just won't get in there. And if the do get in there, they're usually to large to pass through the nozzle.
I really don't believe contact cleaner will do the job. Contact cleaner will remove petroleum distillates but not baked or burned on residue.

Richard