Community Forums

RadarContact · 05-23-2025, 04:45 PM

Hi all!
Brand new motorhome owner with some questions (after much pre-purchase research).
2017 Coachmen Pursuit 30FW (17k miles)
*I plan to do the Quik Fix tomorrow. Will check the diff bolts tomorrow as well.
Will check air pressure on brand new tires too.

Question 1: will a steering stabilizer make it so my steering wheel doesn’t need CONSTANT correction going in a straight line?
Question 2: why does it downshift as a semi is passing me? At first I feel like I’m being “pulled” (drafting?), but then as he gets about half past me the RV downshifts (?). Is it like “reverse drafting at some point? Pls excuse my ignorance.

Thanks. Looking forward to learning a ton from the OGs around here!

// Radar //

Jim_HiTek · 05-23-2025, 05:24 PM

I have read that steering stabilizers do help with that situation but at a high cost. What I did was just add those Airtab vortex devices to the rear and top rear of my 36' Class A RV and haven't had any problems with oncoming or passing vehicles or gusting winds since. Under $300 for the set of V-Spoilers (the brand I used). I can drive up to 8 hours and arrive tired, but not worn out from fighting to keep the RV on the road. You can read my ad free product eval about them here: V-Spoilers...

Jabber Jaw · 06-05-2025, 05:30 AM

Steering stabilizer is one of the best things you can have done. A "Saf-T-Plus" is about the best, in my opinion. and depending on your location, they have a couple of shops, and will install it for "FREE"!

Also consider a "rear trac bar" the other item that will have a big impact on handling. Due to the shorter length, and weight of your coach, you may not eliminate the movement from 18 wheelers. But you will get used to the "push" then "pull" as it passes you. Experience is a great teacher!

Good Luck!

LETMGROW · 06-05-2025, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabber Jaw

Steering stabilizer is one of the best things you can have done. A "Saf-T-Plus" is about the best, in my opinion. and depending on your location, they have a couple of shops, and will install it for "FREE"!

Also consider a "rear trac bar" the other item that will have a big impact on handling. Due to the shorter length, and weight of your coach, you may not eliminate the movement from 18 wheelers. But you will get used to the "push" then "pull" as it passes you. Experience is a great teacher!

Good Luck!

I agree wholeheartedly with what has been said here. Aside from improving handling the "Safe-t-Plus" can be a great aid in controlling the coach in the case of a front tire blow out.
I did the install of these two items myself but only after I had the front end aligned at a local shop well known for their quality service. It doesn't hurt that I am a close friend of the owner and know the technician well.
I keep a close eye on tire pressures
Yes, I get some wander when passed by an 18 wheeler now but it is much easier to control and I can drive with one hand on the wheel as opposed to holding the wheel in a "Death Grip" just to stay within my lane.
Money well spent IMO.

yeloduster · 06-05-2025, 07:44 AM

Many Ford F53 chassis came from the factory with a front alignment caster setting of ≈ +3.5°. Many of the members of IRV2 have reported that changing the caster to ≈ +5.5°.

Caster on this vehicle is set by placing wedges between the axle and the spring.

It is always a good idea to have an alignment check done on a 'new to you' vehicle. When you get that done make sure to take the Motorhome to a shop that has the capability and willingness to adjust caster on a straight axle vehicle like your Ford F53.

The arrow in the attached picture is pointing to an alignment wedge. The wedge tilts the axle relative to the spring.

David 70 · 06-05-2025, 08:11 AM

The motorhome I bought a year ago had the steering stabilizer installed before I bought it. I never drove it before the stabilizer. does the stabilizer need to be installed in the center of its stroke. I am not impressed with it, but like I said I didn't drive it without it. There are no instructions with the motorhome.

LETMGROW · 06-06-2025, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David 70

The motorhome I bought a year ago had the steering stabilizer installed before I bought it. I never drove it before the stabilizer. does the stabilizer need to be installed in the center of its stroke. I am not impressed with it, but like I said I didn't drive it without it. There are no instructions with the motorhome.

The stabilizer has to be in it's neutral position with the steering wheel centered before tightening the bracket holding the stabilizer to the steering linkage. Other wise you will either be compressing or stretching the spring inside the stabilizer unit to go straight down the road.

David 70 · 06-07-2025, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LETMGROW

The stabilizer has to be in it's neutral position with the steering wheel centered before tightening the bracket holding the stabilizer to the steering linkage. Other wise you will either be compressing or stretching the spring inside the stabilizer unit to go straight down the road.

I got the install instructions from the company so now I need to recheck the installation to see if it is correct. These roads now days it is hard to tell if it's the road or the stabilizer. some have so much crown that it wants to pull you to the right no matter what.

RadarContact · 06-08-2025, 08:43 AM

Wow, GREAT info! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

LETMGROW · 06-08-2025, 07:07 PM

The only real trick for installation is to drive the vehicle before installing the Safe-T-Plus on a level road holding the steering wheel so the vehicle is going straight down the highway, then take note where the steering wheel is positioned going straight ahead.
This position must be where the steering wheel should be when installing the unit. Otherwise as I mentioned in an earlier post you will be fighting the Safe-T-Plus to keep the vehicle straight on a straight highway.

Sweetbriar · 06-09-2025, 04:35 AM

A stabilizer helps (I have one) but first get the coach weight checked and adjust the tire pressures. The F53 chassis can be sensitive with straight line stability problems and lane wandering with as little as 5 psi over the recommended pressure for the axle weight.

Regarding the downshift when being passed by a semi, you're the first to mention it that I know of. Your 2017 rig should have a 2016 or newer Ford chassis which has the six speed transmission that started with 2016 model year and had an improvement over the earlier five speed that would downshift from 5th (OD) to third and rev to 3500+ RPM on minor hills or even strong headwinds. ECU tuners (aftermarket firmware changes to the shift program) helped but it was a $500 fix last decade. Not sure how much today. Might help for the six speed.

LETMGROW · 06-09-2025, 05:18 AM

I should have mentioned in one or both of my posts here before mounting the Safe-T-Plus it's imperative to know your suspension and steering parts are all in good condition and the alignment is within specs. The Safe-T-Plus wasn't made or designed to correct or compensate for worn parts or a an out of alignment condition.

David 70 · 06-09-2025, 05:52 AM

Adding to post #8. I got the instructions and checked the install. It was not off enough or any at all. to make a difference. I discovered while doing it that the steering wheel goes 4turns plus about 4 inches lock to lock. But it turns one and a half one way and two and a half the other. In my high school automotive class days, I was taught that the steering gear does not work correctly if it is not in the center while going straight ahead. I will need to find an alignment shop to have a look at it. I have one in mind that that place I used to work at had their semis done at. Will post results back when I know more after the first of July.

LETMGROW · 06-12-2025, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David 70

Adding to post #8. I got the instructions and checked the install. It was not off enough or any at all. to make a difference. I discovered while doing it that the steering wheel goes 4turns plus about 4 inches lock to lock. But it turns one and a half one way and two and a half the other. In my high school automotive class days, I was taught that the steering gear does not work correctly if it is not in the center while going straight ahead. I will need to find an alignment shop to have a look at it. I have one in mind that that place I used to work at had their semis done at. Will post results back when I know more after the first of July.

Something here is amiss. Perhaps a drag link is installed or adjusted incorrectly. The gear box has what is known as a "High point" which means the sector shaft and the rack in the gear box are in sync.
Disconnecting the drag link from the pitman arm then turning the steering wheel all the way one way to lock then turning the wheel all the way to lock in the other direction counting the number of turns then dividing the number of turns in half then turning the wheel back that number of turns or fractions there of should put the gearbox on the high point. From there inspecting the linkage closely should reveal what the issue is. Misadjustments or a bent part.
In severe cases such as with a vehicle has been in an accident and the front wheel was hit hard the pitman arm can actually twist the splines on the gearbox pitman shaft. New parts could be installed but the installer didn't notice the damaged shaft. I saw this more than once when I was in the alignment and frame straightening business.