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Old 03-02-2021, 07:54 AM   #1
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Sway bars

I can swing either a front or a rear sway bar for my 2017 F53 24K chassis because if the cost. If you had to choose, which would you do?
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Old 03-02-2021, 09:35 AM   #2
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Do the CHF first. Then decide if you need to upgrade.
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Old 03-02-2021, 09:46 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryStone View Post
Do the CHF first. Then decide if you need to upgrade.
For the uninitiated, CHF = Cheap Handling Fix:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/chea...fix-72335.html

And here's a contrary view, albeit from a suspension parts vendor:

https://supersteerparts.com/why-you-...your-motorhome
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Old 03-02-2021, 11:22 AM   #4
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Roadmaster and Hellwig both told me "Do the rear first. That is where the weight is."

Like others have said, do the CHF first, then decide if you need more.
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Old 03-02-2021, 04:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCam View Post
And here's a contrary view, albeit from a suspension parts vendor:

https://supersteerparts.com/why-you-...your-motorhome
Meanwhile many including myself have done the standard CHF with no link extensions, including the original CHF inventory jmckinley over a decade ago with no issues. I have 40k + miles on mine still fine.

You know if you sell suspension parts you should probably understand suspension geometry and why the CHF increases sway bar spring rate just like increasing sway bar diameter and yet in that video they act like they aren't sure why you would do that??? Seriously you have never seen an adjustable sway bar or know the sway bar formula? What a joke...

And yes the angle is part of the formula...

Look if you do the CHF you are putting more stress on the links because the bar is now stiffer, duh, there is a risk you break a link, then you go and buy the aftermarket sway bars and links. You can extend the links lowering the sway bar stiffness and the force exerted on the bar with less sway control, again duh. The sway bar need not be level to function correctly , not sure where this myth came from, but thats not how levers work. Sway bar diameter, material, arm length AND ANGLE are all part of the formula and determine final spring rate.
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Old 03-02-2021, 04:16 PM   #6
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I would do the CHF and a rear track bar.
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Old 03-06-2021, 06:53 AM   #7
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Folks need to be aware, on the 26k chassis (maybe others) some variations of the CHF can cause the stock trackbar to contact the pumpkin. Not saying you should not do the CHF. Just a warning to be aware.
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Old 03-06-2021, 09:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCam View Post
For the uninitiated, CHF = Cheap Handling Fix:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/chea...fix-72335.html

And here's a contrary view, albeit from a suspension parts vendor:

https://supersteerparts.com/why-you-...your-motorhome
When you read the few comments in this video this one says it all:
If your answer to the question of “why would somebody do that” is “ I don’t know” you should just stop talking.

I have a supersteer rear trac bar and it works fantastic on our 22K F53 chassis. I've also done the CHF and been running that for years now over 10's of thousands of miles. Supersteer's pour assessment of the CHF is flawed.
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Old 03-13-2021, 08:44 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by hohenwald48 View Post
Folks need to be aware, on the 26k chassis (maybe others) some variations of the CHF can cause the stock trackbar to contact the pumpkin. Not saying you should not do the CHF. Just a warning to be aware.
Meant to say "stock sway bar". My fingers were faster than my brain.
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