Transmission 4R100 1/5/1998 - 2/6/2000 heating problem - TSB

[cbilodeau]

If your F53 was built between 1/5/1998 through 2/6/2000 then it could/should have a transmission fluid overheat during duty.

Ford has issue a TSB concerning this problem.

The transmission base on my experience and reading will overheat when driving in town with Air conditionning running. Also when climbing hills very slow.

If there is too much overheating, the transmission shifter will flash and the transmission will go in safe mode and will be slow and strange until you restart the engine.

Because of this overheating problem, most owner will increase the size of the Transmission Cooler. But this is not the first solution to apply to this problem. (The transmission cooler is the first radiator you see when you open the hood. It is located in front of the A/C radiator which is located in front of the big Engine coolant radiator. Yes there are three radiators one in front of the other.)

Almost everybody will think the size of the Transmission cooler is too small. But in fact if your transmission does not overheat when going at higher speed then probably the transmission cooler size is ok.

In fact when we read the TSB in details we understand that for the F53 built between 1/5/1998 through 2/6/2000 the Big Engine Coolant radiator was missing an Transmission cooler at the bottom.

So the 1st solution to apply to your F53 is to change the Engine radiator with the radiator they put on the 2001 F53. This new radiator has two additionnals ports one outlet, and one inlet for the transmission fluid. According to the TSB, the transmission fluid goes from the transmission to this new ports and then after that it goes into the Transmission cooler.

Here is a picture of the new Engine Radiator. You see the two chrome ports at the bottom for the Transmission fluid:



Why does it fix the problem? Because at low speed there is not enough air to cool the transmission fluid. So the solution is to have the transmission fluid go into the bottom of the Engine Radiator so that it can be cooled down by the Engine Coolant. Don't worry, the engine coolant will not overheat the transmission fluid since it has already been cooled by the radiator.

Some thread talks about putting a "6.0 cooler". This is the Transmission cooler they put today on 6.0 Powerstroke engines. It is almost a direct fit for our old Tranmission cooler and it is 3 to 4 times more effective.

Some people in these threads say they have put a new Tru-Cool 40,000 GVW 47391 Max Low Pressure Drop which is another Transmission cooler. This one is not as good ad the 6.0 cooler but is a good one. But if you compare your existing F53 transmission cooler to the picture of a Tru-Cool, you will see they are the same size. So I don't think it is a good solution to your overheating problems.

Some other people could also replace the Transmission cooler by a Extra Heavy Duty transmission cooler. Those are Hayden 1015 and Four Seasons 53004 and are sold for very cheap by Rockauto.com.

Some other will add a second transmission cooler which is really something that should not be done on this 1999-2000 4R100 tranmission because of the internal bypass pressure valve.

But changing the Transmission cooler is not the good solution because even with a bigger Transmission cooler, you still have the problem described in the TSB: there is not enough air coming in the front of the vehicule at low speed when the F53 is working hard. Yes it could improve but it is not the right solution.

Why not every owner should be concerned? The TSB say to change the Engine Radiator only if the owner has Overheating problem. In fact you should not have too much overheating problem if: 1 - You do not tow, 2 - If you drive only on cold temperature, 3 - If you don't climb excessive long hills, 4 - If your motorhome builder did not add to much weight to the F53 when they built the motorhome, 5 - etc, etc.

But everybody is likely to have overheating problems if they meet heavy conditions. This will be hard on the transmission components.

Here are my recommendations base on my reading.

1 - Order a new 2001 F53 Engine Radiator. NISSENS 69205 or YC3Z8005BA, YC3Z8005AA or 19-01111, F81HEB, F81ZAA, CU2171. Cheap Spectra is 225$Cad and a OEM will be about 520$Cad. The transmission fluid should go directly on the input port of this new Radiator. Then from the output port it should go in your existing Transmission cooler.

2- Add an Inline Transmission filter. This is what the TSB says. XC3Z-7B155-AA, XC3Z-7B155-CA, XC3Z-7B155-E, Motorcraft FT-168, FT168, XC3Z-7B155-E Auto Trans Filter Kit. I found one on eBay. Connect in the fluid cooler return line. You must follow the instruction on the TSB 00-23-10 when installing. See my next post.

3- Buy a YC3Z-7R081-AA Hose Assembly. I found one on eBay.

4- Buy a YC3Z-7A031-AA Tube Assembly. If you can not find the OEM, you could use Dorman 624-035 available on amazon.ca or amazon.com.

5 - Buy a YC3Z-7A031-CA Tube Assembly or Dorman 624-059 or 5801119. I found one on amazon.ca.

6- If after the modification you still have overheating problem then you could change your Transmission cooler for a better one like shown previously here.

7- While changing the Engine radiator, it is a good time to also change the Coolant hoses. Rockauto sells the OEM ones for cheap. See this thread: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/can-i...-a-289638.html

8- While changing the Engine radiator, you could also change the Thermostat. MOTORCRAFT RT-1195. You have 180 and 195 degree. I prefer my engine running hot at 195. I have put a 45779 thermostat.

9- Buy 16 gallons of coolant long life 50/50. Not Gold.

10- Add a temperature gauge for the transmission temp. There are thread here on irv2.com that talks about it. I have found a 15$ solution on aliexpress.com.

The TSB can be found here: http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/002404.pdf

Here is the text:

Article No.
00-24-4 TRANSMISSION - 4R100 - FLUID OVERHEATS DURING SEVERE DUTY - AVAILABILITY OF UPDATED FLUID COOLER/FILTER KIT - VEHICLES PRODUCED BEFORE 2/6/2000

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 14, 2000
FORD: 1999-2000 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000 EXCURSION


This article applies only to 1999-2000 Super Duty F-Series vehicles equipped with a 6.8L or 7.3L engine built 1/5/1998 through 2/6/2000, and 2000 model Excursion vehicles equipped with a 6.8L or 7.3L engine built 7/1/1999 through 2/6/2000.

ISSUE:
Some vehicles, equipped with 4R100 transmissions, built prior to 2/6/2000 may benefit from additional cooling during heavy duty use conditions (i.e., snow plowing, towing, carrying heavy loads.) A revised transmission Fluid Filter/Cooling Kit has been developed to aid in fluid cooling.

ACTION:
Replace radiator, cooler lines, and hoses for transmission fluid cooling system with current level parts on vehicles built prior to 2/6/2000, ONLY WHEN transmission hardware confirms customer condition of inadequate transmission cooling. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
If vehicle requires service, repair any transmission damage as required.

If inadequate transmission cooling is suspect:

Replace radiator, cooler lines, and hoses with current level parts. The radiator has an internal transmission fluid cooler.
For removal, refer to appropriate model/year Workshop Manual.
For installation, follow procedures listed in the appropriate model 2001 Workshop Manual.
Once the transmission fluid cooling system has been updated, install the Transmission In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA) per TSB 00-23-10. Follow the instructions included with the filter service kit.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
YC3Z-7N291-AA Clip - Transmission Oil Cooler
YC3Z-7R081-AA Hose Assembly
YC3Z-7A031-AA Tube Assembly
YC3Z-7A031-CA Tube Assembly
YC3Z-8005-BA Radiator Assembly
XC3Z-7B155-AA Filter Kit - Transmission In-Line

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
00-23-10

WARRANTY STATUS:
INFORMATION ONLY

OASIS CODES:
504000, 510000

[cbilodeau]

Here is the TSB 00-23-10 for the Inline transmission fluid filter.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/...dPdf?id=112658
or
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/002310.pdf


TRANSMISSION—FLUID IN-LINE FILTER KIT—REPEAT REPAIRS OF TRANSMISSION—SERVICE TIPS FORD:

1980-1997
1980-2001
1984-2001
1985-1990
1985-2001
1987-1997
1989-1996
1989-1997
1989-2001
1991-2002
1997-2001
1999-2001
2000-2001

LINCOLN:

MERCURY:

Article No.
00-23-10

THUNDERBIRD
CROWN VICTORIA
MUSTANG
BRONCO II
RANGER
AEROSTAR
BRONCO
F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD
ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD, F-350, F-450
EXPLORER
EXPEDITION
F-250 HD, SUPER DUTY F SERIES
EXCURSION

1982-2001 TOWN CAR
2000-2001 LS
1998-2001 NAVIGATOR
1980-2001 GRAND MARQUIS
1987-1997 COUGAR
1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER

This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to update model applications and model years.

ISSUE
Contamination from prior transmission concerns or excess wear may be trapped in the transmission fluid cooling system. This debris must be removed by properly cleaning the transmission cooling system. After cleaning, some contamination may still remain. The remaining contamination may be reintroduced into the fluid cooling system of a
repaired/replaced transmission causing premature or repeat failures.

ACTION
After every overhaul or transmission exchange, clean, flush and backflush the transmission fluid cooling system which includes: fluid cooler, auxiliary cooler, cooler lines, and Cooler Bypass Valve (CBV), if equipped. Perform the cooler flow test to ensure proper transmission fluid flow volume on the transmission return line through the cooling system. Once proper fluid flow volume is verified install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA) in the fluid cooler return line.

1. Clean, flush and backflush transmission fluid cooling system.

2. Once the fluid cooling system has been cleaned, flushed and backflushed, connect the cooler lines and perform the transmission fluid flow test to ensure proper fluid flow. Refer to the appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for procedure.

3. If proper fluid flow volume is not obtained, refer to appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for repair procedure. The transmission fluid coolers, auxiliary cooler, OTA, cooler lines, CBV (if equipped), transmission fluid pump or internal filter may be restricted or damaged and require replacement.


CAUTION
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE KIT INSTRUCTIONS MAY CAUSE INTERNAL TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY DAMAGE AND REPEAT REPAIRS.


4. Only after proper transmission fluid flow volume is present, install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA). Follow the instructions provided with the kit.




5. Once the filter is installed:

a. With the transmission fluid return line disconnected from the transmission, verify fluid flow through the filter.

b. Once the fluid flow in-and-out of the filter is verified, connect the transmission fluid return line to the transmission. Check and adjust proper transmission fluid level to normal operating range at normal operating temperature and check for leaks, kinks and chafe points (refer to the “Do’s and Don’ts” chart in the kit instructions).

NOTE
THE FILTER INCLUDED IN THIS KIT WILL ALSO BE AVAILABLE AS A SEPARATE PART (XC3Z-7B155-BA). IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THIS IN-LINE FILTER BE CHANGED EVERY 48,000 KILOMETERS (30,000 MILES).

PART NUMBER XC3Z-7B155-AA PART NAME Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (Complete)
PART NUMBER XC3Z-7B155-BA PART NAME In-Line Filter Only (Separate)

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE


SUPERSEDES: 00-3-8


WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION = TIME

002310AB Perform Flow Test And install In-Line Fluid Filter = 0.7 Hr.
002310A Additional Time To Retest fluid Flow Before Installing In-Line Filter (To Be Used Only After Additional
Repairs Are Performed) = 0.3 Hr.

[cbilodeau]

I have found Mark Kovalsky procedure to verify the transmission flow rate. Here is what he said (I have reformatted four of his posts in one paragraph):

There needs to be a minimum of one gallon per minute through the cooling circuit. The way to test this is with a helper and two containers. Remove the line at the rear of the trans and aim it into the first container. Have your helper start the engine. Once the flow is solid move the line to the second container for exactly 15 seconds then put it back in the first container (The first few seconds are not going to be at full flow and the result will be less flow than there really is). Shut the engine off. If there is at least a quart in the second container there is enough flow. I'd do this with the new cooler installed to make sure it works. If there is fluid spraying out of the transmission when you do this it fails regardless of how much flow you get (That would mean that there is an obstruction sufficient to open the pressure bypass valve. If, during the test, anything spurts out of that port, the test fails because the bypass valve has seen enough back-pressure in the cooling system to begin to open.).

I took it from:

What is the flow rate on the transmission cooler?

[chboone]

Or install one of these with a remote filter and temp gauge. Cooler can be installed anywhere, does not have to be in the radiator air flow.

B&M Oil Cooler, Large Hi Tek Cooling System with Fan, 590 CFM Rating » B&M
B&M Transmission Temperature Gauge » B&M
B&M Remote Transmission Filter Kit » B&M

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by chboone

Or install one of these with a remote filter and temp gauge. Cooler can be installed anywhere, does not have to be in the radiator air flow.

B&M Oil Cooler, Large Hi Tek Cooling System with Fan, 590 CFM Rating » B&M
B&M Transmission Temperature Gauge » B&M
B&M Remote Transmission Filter Kit » B&M

I read that the electric fan over a Tansmission cooler was efficient only at idle or low speed but not strong enough at high speed. But since this is exactly at idle or low speed that we have a problem then this solution seems to be working.

But we could probably make it cheaper. Is there a fan with a Transmission cooler temperature sensor that we could simply add in front of the existing transmission cooler?

I remember a post from Mark Kovalsky where he said that this kind of cooler also blocks the air since it is in front of our radiators.

[chboone]

Originally Posted by cbilodeau

I read that the electric fan over a Tansmission cooler was efficient only at idle or low speed but not strong enough at high speed. But since this is exactly at idle or low speed that we have a problem then this solution seems to be working.

But we could probably make it cheaper. Is there a fan with a Transmission cooler temperature sensor that we could simply add in front of the existing transmission cooler?

I remember a post from Mark Kovalsky where he said that this kind of cooler also blocks the air since it is in front of our radiators.

First, I would like to say you did a good write up about the transmission overheat problem some experience. I would suppose it happens more often then people think, they just don't know it without a temperature gauge.

Here is a 10" electric fan from Hayden Auto that could be mounted to the existing oil cooler.
https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...+Electric+Fans

I would buy the better temperature control instead of the economy one.

https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...RXF3TS6CA387ED


I'm sure by calling B&M or Hayden Auto the fan they use for their oil coolers could be purchased as a separate item. The best installation of the additional cooler would be to mount it where it would not restrict air flow to the existing oil cooler a radiator.

[cbilodeau]

I have ordered all the parts to change my Engine Radiator two days ago. I still have to buy the Radiator itself since I am still looking at the different sellers prces. I will post my work.

[chboone]

I ordered the B&M temperature gauge so I can see what happens with my trans temp pulling hills.

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by chboone

I ordered the B&M temperature gauge so I can see what happens with my trans temp pulling hills.

So did you ever had any weird reactions from the transmission?

Here is my experience:

In december I went from Montreal to Florida. When I arrived in the keys I had to drive 2 hours at lower speed with A/C on and with some medium hills. The engine temperature then raise suddently and I had to stop the A/C. 30 minutes later, the transmission went in safe mode with the light flashing on the speed selector. I had to replace the Solenoids in the transmission since I had a OBD2 code. It fixed my problem. I have created a thread about my solenoid change on irv2.com.

Then last week I went to a new campground in my area. I did not take the highway and drove with A/C for 45 minutes. The shifts became weird after 20 minutes (bad shifts then a kick on the butt feeling). The transmission after 44 minutes went in safe mode with the light flashing. This is what decided me to search for answers on the internet.

[chboone]

No I have never had anything like you describe. I have towed my car up a couple of 7,000 ft passes, down to 35 MPH for a few miles with no issues. And spent over an hour in stop and go traffic, not towing on the 101 in Los Angeles with no issues. Engine temp has never gone over 200°F on my Scan Gauge II.

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by chboone

No I have never had anything like you describe. I have towed my car up a couple of 7,000 ft passes, down to 35 MPH for a few miles with no issues. And spent over an hour in stop and go traffic, not towing on the 101 in Los Angeles with no issues. Engine temp has never gone over 200°F on my Scan Gauge II.

We have done 18000 miles in two years. We have been in many differents situations and the transmission was ok. Been in stop and go traffic too with no problem.

I have put a bike rack in the front with 3 bikes (4" inches big beach tires) on it. Maybe this doesn't help at low speed. I travel with 5 kids. I will put the smaller tires bikes in the front next time. There is no cover on the bikes but still the bikes don't help the air to go thru.

I carry heavy with a lot of modifications: floating floor, 3 big solar panel, ceramic floor, etc. A carry full of water since we are 7 in the coach. I tow a 5000 pounds Honda Odyssey minivan. I have two extensions.

I looked at picture of a Dolphin 1999 5350 like yours and it seems heavy too. Tag axle, one or two extensions, 35ft.

[mrt_1111]

I drive monarch pass Colorado (11000+ feet) every year for the last 3 years towing a car. No over heating yet, knock on wood. Although I think I have four radiators, I'll will have to go count them. If I remember correctly the fourth one is small (4" x 12") and I have to be under the RV to see it.

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by mrt_1111

I drive monarch pass Colorado (11000+ feet) every year for the last 3 years towing a car. No over heating yet, knock on wood. Although I think I have four radiators, I'll will have to go count them. If I remember correctly the fourth one is small (4" x 12") and I have to be under the RV to see it.

I drove two month in the mountains in west usa. Very strong and long hills with no problems. In fact on highway, even for a big hill I feel the transmission is ok even when I have to go at 30 miles an hour. My owner manual say if I remember to turn off the A\C on bigger hills.

In fact it is in slow speed road where I drove for more than 40 minutes with the A/C on that I had problems so far.

Yes there is a Power Steering small radiator at the bottom. It is not in front of the three others and this is why I did not talk about this one.

It is possible that my transmission is clogged too. So when I will install my new engine radiator I will verify the transmission fluid pressure like Mark Kovalsky has explained. I still have to determine how to verify engine coolant pressure.

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by RodK

I have read your thread on transmission overheating. I have been through the mountains between Banff and Jasper twice (I live near Winnipeg) and I have had no issues with my transmission. I am an auto technician by trade and have had very few issues even though I bought a motorhome with higher mileage.

Do you have a temperature gauge for the transmission?