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Old 10-15-2019, 04:59 PM   #1
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Transmission Hesitates

it is a 86 tioga and when it runs iput it in gear and it hesitates before taking off. it sat for awhile and it seems ok on the fluid level so i was thinking some trans tune and a filter change. it is a ford so i should be great.
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Old 10-18-2019, 12:05 AM   #2
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I would start with a complete AT oil and filters change (including torque converter), inspect for metal fragments/dust in pan bottom while performing this. A light film on pan bottom is OK, depending on mileage, low miles-none should be seen. Larger fragments might indicate $$$$ problems.
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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Old 10-18-2019, 06:03 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
I would start with a complete AT oil and filters change (including torque converter), inspect for metal fragments/dust in pan bottom while performing this. A light film on pan bottom is OK, depending on mileage, low miles-none should be seen. Larger fragments might indicate $$$$ problems.
good advice BUT get a can of trans flush B&G or equive,, put in and run it a while, warm up good, run thru gears a little,, then dump it all..

Is it a C6 or E40D, ?

My E40D when it sits for 3-4 months over winter has some jet lap upon forst moving if not warmed up 100% then it is fine all year, 193K and still motorin..
My other RV has 35K on it same trans, does the same..
I change fluid in pan every season, that is about 1/3 of capacity, I do a complete dump and flush every 50K and do yearly mini changes..
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Old 10-22-2019, 11:56 PM   #4
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it's a c6. i also need a neutral safety switch. it's fun to start.
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Old 10-23-2019, 09:46 AM   #5
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Owners of old Ford transmissions refer to this as "morning sickness". They don't want to move first thing until they get warmed up a bit and then are fine the rest of the day. Now way around it, it's indicative of hardening internal rubber seals. Various horrific flushes and "treatments" have ingredients to soften that old rubber and they work. Problem is that once they start attacking the rubber they never stop. At some point the rubber will start turning into snot and you'll lose all functionality. And then some transmission rebuilder will be cursing you (and K&W) for using transmission additive while he is using a hammer to beat apart transmission internals that would normally pop apart with bare fingers. Been there, done that, guess what I do for a living.

For the record, a number of folks have lived with Morning sickness for quite some time with vehicles that are only occasionally driven. Like RV's and classic cars. The trick is to change the fluid with some good old actual "Type F" transmission fluid and not do anything stupid with extra additives. Type F has some extra friction modifiers in it that happen to prolong the functionality of aging transmissions. Though it's a Ford specific transmission fluid, the Chevy guys figured out it had some extra properties that could help extend a transmission's life back in the 1970's.
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