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Old 06-26-2022, 03:24 PM   #15
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Interested in the fix. Thanks for posting.
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Old 06-26-2022, 11:01 PM   #16
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It would be best to use a "ford specific" scan tool the Ford dealer IDS system is the standard for ford, the next closest one for you and me is forscan it mi.ics the Ford ids if you buy the full version. It does read "ford specific codes"
For the surging issue, I have seen this on a couple of f53 chassis and in both cases it led to the ignition area, but how it was found was quite the opposite! Monitor speed signal ( vss) and low and behold at certain speeds and load the speed signal would go way over the actual speed causing the engine pcm to go into "speed limiter mide" for a second or two....had to go into mode 6 to inspect the missfire counter...found 2 cylinders that had higher missfire counts than the other 8. When a missfire occurs on a "cop" ( coil on plug) it can send stray rf signals that the vehicle abs does not like which in turn feeds the vss signal to the pcm which interprets it as excessive speed ( speed limiter).

Good luck and
Safe travels
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Old 06-27-2022, 07:48 PM   #17
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It would be best to use a "ford specific" scan tool the Ford dealer IDS system is the standard for ford, the next closest one for you and me is forscan it mi.ics the Ford ids if you buy the full version. It does read "ford specific codes"
For the surging issue, I have seen this on a couple of f53 chassis and in both cases it led to the ignition area, but how it was found was quite the opposite! Monitor speed signal ( vss) and low and behold at certain speeds and load the speed signal would go way over the actual speed causing the engine pcm to go into "speed limiter mide" for a second or two....had to go into mode 6 to inspect the missfire counter...found 2 cylinders that had higher missfire counts than the other 8. When a missfire occurs on a "cop" ( coil on plug) it can send stray rf signals that the vehicle abs does not like which in turn feeds the vss signal to the pcm which interprets it as excessive speed ( speed limiter).

Good luck and
Safe travels
avfordguy
Thanks for the info. My mechanic is a ford guy so he should have the correct tools although he works on many different vehicles. I will see that he gets a copy of your response. Now, tomorrow I am going to pour a Lucas fuel additive in the tank along with an alcohol-based water diffuser. I will test run it about 30 miles and see what happens. I would assume these products don't work their magic instantly so will take another test run on Wednesday just because. As I said before, I won't get it in to my mechanic until July 11th. I was going to go ahead and change the coils and plugs until I priced them. Since we are talking near $750 I will hold off till someone says that's the problem or I am a little closer to 90K miles. The other things I could simply do like the EGR, PCV, Map, etc, just don't make sense to do. I just keep going back to the Calytic converter and am looking forward to the exhaust analysis.
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Old 06-27-2022, 09:37 PM   #18
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Years ago, I drive a Cadillac from Sacramento uphill into the sierra mtns until the 5,000 foot elevation where the car stalled. I git it started enough to turn back downhill and drove home to Sac where I put a new in tank fuel pump on and never had another problem. It was due to the elevation change where the pump was not strong enough to pump the gas but it could pump enough gas at sea level.

Maybe something for your situation
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Old 06-28-2022, 12:29 PM   #19
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Brake over throttle?

Just a couple of thoughts, was it raining? air filter getting wet? Have you just purchased recently? The computer will derate engine if it sees the brake pedal touched while accelerating. Could your foot be touching brake , i do it on occasion. If all no, maybe remove airbox lid and clean the Mass air flow sensor .
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Old 06-28-2022, 12:35 PM   #20
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Update. Today I put 16oz of Lucas Fuel additive; 3 bottles of HEAT alcohol water disperser into my gas tank which had approximately 60 gal. of 87 octane regular gas. I then went on a 60-mile (round trip) test run. Starting off the coach ran fine and absolutely no surging at a cruising speed of 60 mph. Going up the first grade I left it in cruise control for most of the way up then shifted down to 3rd and disengaged the cruise. It was obvious that i didn't have full power and there was some slight surging. Over the top and all was good. The next grade was about the same and all leveled out over the top. About 25 miles going up a slight grade with cruse engaged the engine was down shifting and RPM was over 4200 and I got a flicker from my CEL. It did not stay lit. On the way back home, I got another flicker going up a grade but no constant light. The last grade with the cruise engaged and running over 4K all at once my temp gage pegged, I got a constant CEL. My message said, "Engine over temp Power reduced". I immediately pulled over and shut things down. On opening my hood, I noted that my coolant level was fine, and the engine did not indicate it was over temp. When I got back inside and fired it up, the temp gauge read normal, and the message was gone. Since I was about 20 miles from home, I just took my time and made it home without any more problems. The temp gauge stayed normal and the CEL stayed lit without any new messages. I need to emphasize that on the level and with a slight head wind the coach ran steady and maintained speed with no surging or speed loss. The grades are another story. I was going wait 2 days and let the additives do their thing then go on another test run but with what happened just don't feel comfortable doing that. I'm pretty sure I will let the coach sit in the garage until my appointment with my mechanic on the 11th. Any thoughts or suggestions out there? By the way I sincerely appreciate all the responses you have taken the time to make.
Thanks
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Old 06-28-2022, 04:01 PM   #21
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Pulsing v10

Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBO34PA View Post
Just a couple of thoughts, was it raining? air filter getting wet? Have you just purchased recently? The computer will derate engine if it sees the brake pedal touched while accelerating. Could your foot be touching brake , i do it on occasion. If all no, maybe remove airbox lid and clean the Mass air flow sensor .
Actually, it was raining hard most of the time. Checking the filter was my first effort to fix the problem but it was not wet. I replaced it anyway. Foot never on the brake. I haven't cleaned the MAF yet but will.
Thanks,
Chuck
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Old 06-29-2022, 07:45 AM   #22
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HELP! Think I really screwed up. When I put my coach away it stays in my garage. When I shut it down and don't plug into my shore power, I shut off both the battery and coach power switches. Now, when I turn off the battery switch does it automatically erase any faults that have been recorded. I know when I went on that last test drive my CEL had come on and stayed on. I went thru my normal shutting down process. When I went back out later to check on some other issue, I turned on the switches and started the engine. The CEL was off?? Any thoughts? I know Dan Hannah had mentioned that issue on his coach, but it went right over my head.
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Old 06-29-2022, 08:07 AM   #23
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Disconnecting the engine battery can erase any stored codes. You can try to scan it for codes to see if any didn’t get erased. If they did you will need to drive it again, but then don’t disconnect the engine battery so any codes will stay in the computer memory.
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Old 06-29-2022, 10:05 AM   #24
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Disconnecting the engine battery can erase any stored codes. You can try to scan it for codes to see if any didn’t get erased. If they did you will need to drive it again, but then don’t disconnect the engine battery so any codes will stay in the computer memory.
Thank you. Lesson learned.
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Old 06-29-2022, 10:45 AM   #25
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I actually disconnected the chassis battery "off" switch. Just take out the 6 screws in the stepwell switch panel, and unplug the left switch from behind.

i did this so I could continue to see what codes build up, and because many engine parameters are not set until days of driving. i wanted to make sure they got set. Example - EVAP canister purging is never set on my rig because of using the off switch.

I also have some pending codes, that never light up the check engine light, because the switch gets turned off before they get severe or constant enough.

I don't think I will hook back up that battery switch when this driveability problem gets resolved - seems like a bad idea to me to me.

Also - Chuck - beg borrow or steal a newer and correct Ford OEM gas cap - I am really starting to wonder if this is a vacuum-leak-related miss caused by that EVAP system.

It is so damn intermittent!

The saga continues....
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Old 06-29-2022, 11:59 AM   #26
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I actually disconnected the chassis battery "off" switch. Just take out the 6 screws in the stepwell switch panel, and unplug the left switch from behind.

i did this so I could continue to see what codes build up, and because many engine parameters are not set until days of driving. i wanted to make sure they got set. Example - EVAP canister purging is never set on my rig because of using the off switch.

I also have some pending codes, that never light up the check engine light, because the switch gets turned off before they get severe or constant enough.

I don't think I will hook back up that battery switch when this driveability problem gets resolved - seems like a bad idea to me to me. Also - Chuck - beg borrow or steal a newer and correct Ford OEM gas cap - I am really starting to wonder if this is a vacuum-leak-related miss caused by that EVAP system.

It is so damn intermittent!

The saga continues....
If I remember correctly, you forgot the gas cap at one point, and it actually exacerbated the problem? Since i have shore power in my garage I will utilize that and quit shutting of the battery switch. I don't want to "not" have it when all things are go. I am going on another test run in a few days to see if my CEL comes back on and to make sure "if still there" that the surging and loss of power goes through several cycles to make sure codes get set if they are there. We will see.
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Old 06-29-2022, 01:59 PM   #27
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Once you got the overheat code was the radiator fan roaring before you got the message?
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Old 06-29-2022, 05:21 PM   #28
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Once you got the overheat code was the radiator fan roaring before you got the message?
It might have been although I don't think so. I know there was some strange noises coming from the engine, however, I had the doghouse partially off, so I passed it on to that. It was more of a "tinny" sound. I know when I opened the hood the coolant level was perfect, and I sure didn't notice the fan running. I guess as I think back on it that sound could have been the fan although it certainly wasn't roaring. What are you thinking?
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