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Old 06-29-2022, 07:43 PM   #29
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Triton V-10 pulsing

I’ll echo fuel issues. Had a 5.4 triton do some goofy stuff like you mentioned, fuel psi was dropping under load and didn’t trigger a check engine light until a month after it started. New fuel pump and it never had the issue again.

Use a cheap Bluetooth OBD dongle (or whatever) and watch the rail psi when you get on it going up grades.
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:09 AM   #30
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Vroom -

I don't have the rail psi on my dongle, what brand do you have that shows that?

THANKS
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Old 06-30-2022, 10:33 AM   #31
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Potential Lost faults and codes

I have chased this concern down and have come up with the following information to pass along.

Ford guy: I wrote him a PM and ask if the faults and codes would be lost when the battery is disconnected. This is his response.

Generally NO, codes stay even if 12v power is lost it would be then a hard fault" , pending faults depend on the calibration, but "freeze frame" info should still be stored..
Ford pcm's have a ton of info in them it takes some skill to interpret what is displayed.
Keep me posted on what you find.


As another source I discussed it with my mechanic who is also a Ford guy. He basically reiterated the above.
For this particular model year, my conclusion is that as long as the person uses the right diagnostic tool and knows how to interpret the data, turning off the battery will not affect relevant stored faults and codes.
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Old 06-30-2022, 01:34 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danhannah View Post
Vroom -

I don't have the rail psi on my dongle, what brand do you have that shows that?

THANKS

I’ll have to look but if i remember right I used OBD fusion and paid a couple bucks for the extended ford options in app. It’s more so an app issue than the dongle. If you have a laptop download for scan and use that. It’s a very very good tool for ford platforms.
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Old 06-30-2022, 05:09 PM   #33
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I would try an injector cleaner… just saying.

BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner Power Enhancer 11oz. https://a.co/d/0y5gn2x
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Old 06-30-2022, 07:43 PM   #34
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This is the one I have,

Friencity Wireless WiFi OBD II OBD2 Scanner Adapter, Auto Diagnostic Code Reader & Scan Tool for iOS, Android and Windows, Read & Clear Car Check Engine Light for Year 1996 and Newer Vehicles https://a.co/d/92EDNBX


This is what I’d buy if you ever intend to use for scan. You can reprogram speedos for tires sizes and such due to its switching capabilities.

FORScan ELM327 OBD2 USB Adapter for Windows, Diagnostic Coding Tool with MS-CAN/HS-CAN Switch for Ford Lincoln Mazda Mercury Series Vehicles https://a.co/d/43gcNPl
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Old 07-01-2022, 04:29 AM   #35
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pulse

Not 100% sure but if you disconnect the battery each time the PCM may need to "relearn" your driving style which can take some time

from manual: Because your vehicle’s engine is also electronically controlled by a computer, some control conditions are maintained by power from the
battery. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed,
the engine must relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum
driveability and performance. To begin this process:
1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. With your foot on the brake pedal and with the A/C on, put the
vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle
quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle
trim is eventually relearned.
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Old 07-01-2022, 08:05 AM   #36
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Injector cleaner

Quote:
Originally Posted by eddndee View Post
I would try an injector cleaner… just saying.

BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner Power Enhancer 11oz. https://a.co/d/0y5gn2x
I currently am running an injector cleaner (Lucas) along with an alcohol based water displacer (Heet). Thanks, Chuck
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Old 07-01-2022, 10:01 AM   #37
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I have a 2015 Winnebago Vista F53 Chassis, V-10. On a 1000-mile trip traveling Hwy 90 from Washington to 3 Forks Montana. Lots of mountain passes. It ran perfect until about Missoula. Then it started as I accelerated. It didn't jerk or idle rough it simply acted like I was taking my foot off the accelerator then pressing it again. We stayed over a couple of nights at a campground as I looked things over. There was nothing obvious so thinking maybe I had got some bad gas I put some additive in the tank and filled it with fresh gas. It ran pretty good from there to our destination, so I thought problem cured. NOPE. I drove the 500 plus miles home mountains and all dealing with the loss of power and pulsing. When I got home, I had a diagnostic test run on it and the only code was a fault in the instrument cluster. Exact readout "Fault received from External Node". The tech had no idea what that meant. I have checked all vacuum hoses and checked all the connections I can see and find no obvious problems. In researching the various sites and my manuals I find there is no external fuel filter, it is integral with the fuel pump in the tank. UGH. So, does anyone have any thoughts? I have an appointment July 11th with the shop that does my work I can't do, and he is well versed on ford engines. I am not a parts changer so have not replaced any of the sensors until I narrow it down. I did pull a spark plug and it was clean. The coach has 48000 miles on it. Any help would be appreciated.
This happened to us about 4 years ago. Only one time. It lasted about 250 miles then quit and hasn't happened since. 2 things I remember about it. It happened right after we followed one of those highway paint stripping crew. We followed it for several miles.
Maybe it is the MAP sensor, so try cleaning it. I didn't, just a thought.
I did add B12 shortly after it began.
I would discrbeit as, the engine pulsating as I accelerated.
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Old 07-01-2022, 10:21 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waggintails View Post
Actually, it isn't an intermittent problem. It usually starts after about 10 miles then is constant. It does become less severe when reaching cruising speed on level roads but get worse as I hit inclines.

Not to address apples to oranges, we had an Econoline van that had a fuel supply problem that occurred at high speed cruise but mostly on inclines. We had a fuel filter along the rail that we changed and it would fix the issue for a short period but then the issue would return. It turned out that the fuel pump has a fine mesh screen around it that had gummed up and would restrict fuel flow. The restricted flow would cavitate the pump enough to cause an engine surging due to low injection pressure.


The fuel tank and pump were not hard to pull out nor get back in. Not sure how big you tank is on your RV. The van had a 32 gallon tank.

Good Luck.
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Old 07-01-2022, 12:18 PM   #39
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Thanks very much for the scanner suggestions, and also for the injector and fuel additive products. I will try both and report back.

As I mentioned, I am going to keep my "chassis disconnect" switch disabled until I am through with this problem, and I will report back if codes change over time. I've always got the emergency start button, right?

In the past, turning off the chassis battery for 10 minutes would cure the surging for a 100 miles or so, maybe reset something, although that cure may be just because we also stopped the rig and rested it for that period. Who knows...

My "Commanded EVAP Purge" seems to be at 100% at all times, pulling fumes off of the gas tank non-stop. DOES ANYONE know if purge should be on all the time? Is that normal? Wouldn't that act like a vacuum leak?

All these codes have me fumbling in the dark a little, this is not exactly my area of expertise!

Dan

Wagginn - We are planning a 400 mile trip starting on Wednesday, cross your fingers.
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Old 07-01-2022, 01:15 PM   #40
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Faults and codes

Quote:
Originally Posted by danhannah View Post
Thanks very much for the scanner suggestions, and also for the injector and fuel additive products. I will try both and report back.

As I mentioned, I am going to keep my "chassis disconnect" switch disabled until I am through with this problem, and I will report back if codes change over time. I've always got the emergency start button, right?

In the past, turning off the chassis battery for 10 minutes would cure the surging for a 100 miles or so, maybe reset something, although that cure may be just because we also stopped the rig and rested it for that period. Who knows...

My "Commanded EVAP Purge" seems to be at 100% at all times, pulling fumes off of the gas tank non-stop. DOES ANYONE know if purge should be on all the time? Is that normal? Wouldn't that act like a vacuum leak?

All these codes have me fumbling in the dark a little, this is not exactly my area of expertise!

Dan

Wagginn - We are planning a 400 mile trip starting on Wednesday, cross your fingers.
I am pretty much done "self" analyzing. I have an appointment with my local mechanic on July 11th to diagnose what is going on. Since he is a Ford guy I hope he can find it. Just to be on the safe side I have another appointment with a bigger shop in Yakima on the 25th to follow up on anything my mechanic finds. Since Cliff don't work on motor homes, (he is doing the diagnostics as a favor) I needed another shop I could trust, and these guys have an excellent reputation. They also have the capabilities to pull the tank and replace the fuel pump if necessary. It is expensive but it that is what it takes to "heal" my coach I am all in for it. Good luck on your planned trip. Chuck
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Old 07-01-2022, 02:01 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danhannah View Post

My "Commanded EVAP Purge" seems to be at 100% at all times, pulling fumes off of the gas tank non-stop. DOES ANYONE know if purge should be on all the time? Is that normal? Wouldn't that act like a vacuum leak?

All these codes have me fumbling in the dark a little, this is not exactly my area of expertise!

Dan

Wagginn - We are planning a 400 mile trip starting on Wednesday, cross your fingers.
I don’t think the EVAP system is open 100% of the time. How about if you vent the tank hose to atmosphere, then cap the opening at the manifold to see if your running problem goes away?
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Old 07-02-2022, 08:14 AM   #42
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Hang in there

I want to thank all of you that have provided me with excellent feedback. As usual this forum provides us with another tool in our unending quest to fix our problems ourselves. I will let you all know what my mechanic finds on the 11th and make sure you all know how this marathon turns out.
Chuck
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