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Old 12-17-2014, 04:20 AM   #1
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Trying to leave! Carb problems or something else?

Now carb problem?

This is a continuation from the I'm stuck thread. My 1983 ford e350 (with a 460 engine duel tank hot vapor carberated class c with intank pumps) will start for a few secs then died out like its starved of fuel. I made it on an over 8hour trip to KY and after a month of sitting it started doing this when it was time to move.

So the mechanic I had first changed the fuel pump, switch pump, and filter to the carb. It still wouldn't stay running so he said it's probably the floats in the carb.

I had it towed to me (I started a new job) and...

Well I rebuilt the carb but didn't have new floats so I just changed the gaskets and cleaned it up. Put it in and after charging the battery and putting gas in the tank its started doing the same thing. I sprayed starting fluid in and it would stay running with every burst.

Called another guy out and he jumped the pump it works you can hear it the switch pump is getting power and the carb is getting fuel but now the fuel is flowing out of the hole in the middle when jumped and it still seems to be starved of gas and cut out either way!

I really need help because I have to leave here by Sunday to go home and can't stay in this place longer. The guy said I need to take the carb to a shop and let them rebuild it. Any suggestions? I've heard of ignition modules and coils messing up as well but idk. Just don't want to pay over $300 for a rebuild and it not be the problem!
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:32 AM   #2
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Your problem is defiantly fuel related being as it'll run when spraying starting fluid to it, so don't waste money on any ignition components. The only reliable way to get this carb rebuilt is to take it to someone who knows what he's doing. There's so many little things that can be miss calibrated etc in it that it needs professional attention.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:42 AM   #3
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What are you calling a "switch pump"?

If it starts for a few secs then dies out the floats are OK.

How the system works is that the oil pressure switch, inertia switch, one fuse link, one fuse and one relay is jumped out while the engine is cranking by the starter solenoid.
When you release the key the oil pressure switch then supplies the power for the fuel pump.
If you do not have oil pressure up or a bad oil pressure switch the engine will die.

So you have one of the following items bad:
1. oil pressure switch.
2. inertia switch (may be tripped).
3. fuse link.
4. fuse 18.
5. relay.
6. open wire or connector.

Reread your other post.
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:43 PM   #4
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If you jump the pump and fuel runs into the engine without turning it over then the carb check valve is leaking and the carb needs rebuilt.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
What are you calling a "switch pump"?

If it starts for a few secs then dies out the floats are OK.

How the system works is that the oil pressure switch, inertia switch, one fuse link, one fuse and one relay is jumped out while the engine is cranking by the starter solenoid.
When you release the key the oil pressure switch then supplies the power for the fuel pump.
If you do not have oil pressure up or a bad oil pressure switch the engine will die.

So you have one of the following items bad:
1. oil pressure switch.
2. inertia switch (may be tripped).
3. fuse link.
4. fuse 18.
5. relay.
6. open wire or connector.

Reread your other post.
I'm having trouble finding the fuse #18 the fuse box under the dash doesn't have numbers fonts match the one in my service manual and doesnt say anything about fuel on it. Would the fuse be somewhere else or I'm just missing it? I've seen the diagram but like I said I can not find it or the fuse link.

I've jumpers the oil pressure switch and the same thing happened.

I can't find the relay (labeled) but I did find two connectors one with a light blue cap type of fuse on it and green connecting part that looks similar to other photos of relays and the other a black connector. Both had five prongs on the fuse end. I'll take pics tomorrow.

Also is there a way to jumper the inertia switch or bypass to see if that's what's happening?

I really appreciate the help!

I'm planning on getting someone to put the carb back together tomorrow and taking a half day at work to test everything else out after. Who would you think would be good to help on this? I don't want a dealership or their prices but I know not everyone know about older fords.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ms.Tito View Post
Now it's starting, runs well for about 30 secs then dies out even when pressing on the gas.

I've jumpers the oil pressure switch and the same thing happened.
I am guessing you have two fuel tanks as you did not say.

So now you have one of the following items bad:
1. inertia switch (may be tripped).
2. fuse link Q.
3. fuse 3.
4. fuel pump cutout relay.
5. open wire or connector.

Sorry it is fuse #3 and not fuse #18.


I do not have diagrams for the 1983 E-series with this system but do have for the 1985 and I think they are the same. They are posted below.







/
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:54 PM   #7
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I replaced the relay and it started right up and ran for almost a minute but then died out again. it continued to do that then started the leak in the front bottom of the carb. (waiting for someone to fix it) :/ the fuse was good also. I followed the wire from the oil pressure switch. Idk how to tell if there is a bad wire. I seen tape over 'bumps' in the wire I'm guessing those are fusible links? I'm now just trying to find the fusible link Q and figure out how to trouble shoot to see if it's not working or any other wire or connection. Any suggestions on doing that? or should I have someone come do that?

Also how to bypass the inertia switch or jumper it? is that possible or I have to get a new one to find out?


btw did you ever work for Ford or just own a lot of them? Those diagrams helped! Thanks a lot!
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Old 12-20-2014, 12:51 PM   #8
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I hate carbs. Give me FI any day.
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