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Old 12-01-2013, 07:30 AM   #1
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Question V10 Overheat(?) on grades

Yesterday on a gentle grade I got a check gauges light (not check engine) and noticed that temp was in the red and then noticed that my RPMs were dropping and I could not kick in "passing gear" or whatever it is called today. I pulled over and in seconds it was normal.

I continued on and it did this on every slight hill and it would go back to normal at the crest. I don't know if it is relevant but transmission temp stayed normal as did all other gauges.

I read up older threads (including this one). From these it seems that it is going into limp mode and there could be a plethora of sensors impacting this that will be a bear to find out in a shop since it is probably not throwing a code since no check engine light. Naturally I left my scan gauge at home so don't know ground truth.

Suggestions on how to deal with this? I hate to get in a parts swap cycle. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:36 AM   #2
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Just a wild guess, as I'm not a mechanic, but if it were mine I would check to make sure the front of the radiator(s) are clean, and that the air filter is clear.
The radiator on the front of my V-10 seems to accumulate gunk faster than one in a car does.
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:40 AM   #3
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I did Bobb...spotless and plenty of fluid in the reservoir. The engine did not "feel" hot.
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:45 AM   #4
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Is the air dam in good shape?
Does your cooling fan rev up during high temps?
Limp mode can happen if your traveling in rain and it gets sucked into air filter.
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:49 AM   #5
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Mine did that about 5 years ago, went into limp mode. I had the crossover and termostat changed per TSB 06-21-15. When we looked at the old thermostat you could see where it was sticking part way closed. No problems since.

I would change the thermostat.
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:19 AM   #6
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Update: it must not have gone into limp mode because the "electronic throttle code" did not light. (Just re-read the manual). I don't think the fan was kicking in because it was too quiet! Dry weather...no rain. Just checked and I have not changed coolant (about 37K miles) but the manual says 100K. The Thermostat is probably worth a change. Is that a DIY thing?
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:21 AM   #7
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You've checked about everything that most would check (clear rad passage ways, coolant, air flow etc.) and it seems OK. You are probably getting a flase reading from a sensor into the ECM (computer) telling it that the engine is hot. It seems strange that the check engine light didn't come on.

There are several sharp folks on these forums that will probably chime in soon (James being one) with some more accurate answers.

If possible try to get it to a shop that can check the data stream for codes and any other issues. Here's where having a Scan tool installed to help monitor coolant and transmission fluid temperatures independent of the regular gauges would be helpful.

We've got a 2014 WBGO Vista but I haven't looked to see how easy it is to change the thermostat. It's probably not to difficult and since it's Sunday with no shops open that might be a good thing to do. I can almost promise you unless you find a really competent technician that will be the first thing that they will tell you has to be done so you might as well beat them to the punch.

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Old 12-01-2013, 08:24 AM   #8
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Yeah TeJay...years of not needing the ScanGauge and I left in in another car that I was trying to read codes on. It's like the time that I was missing 1 (out of 5) tire sensors and guess which tire lost pressure.
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:53 AM   #9
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My 06 did the same thing 2-3 yrs ago.....Same symptoms, etc.....

Problem was the TSB needed to be done, ref prior post......had it done at the dealer, it is a bit labor intensive....About $700.00 at the dealer.....Not only the thermostat changed but the crossover tube also....

I wrote a letter to Ford......Long out of warranty and no obligation by Ford to cover any or all of it.....Week later I got a check for the entire amount..... And problem was solved with the TSB done.....

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Old 12-01-2013, 10:04 AM   #10
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this is an 2008 F53 so it should have the new crossover as described the in the TSB. I hope.
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:40 PM   #11
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The PCM will not trigger a DTC for an overheat condition until the engine is around 270 or 280F. I don't remember the exact number. However the PCM will usually turn off the A/C compressor prior to that to help reduce engine heat. If the gauge was showing hot but you did not hear the cooling fan engage, I would suspect a possible sensor issue or coolant restriction somewhere. The T-stat would be suspect or possible clogged radiator. Something not allowing the cooling fan clutch hub to get direct hot air from the radiator to trigger a higher engagement speed. I would be taking a garden hose and spraying the radiator from the engine out to clean out anything that may be in there. It may also be necessary to measure the actual engine temp with an IR gun close to the cylinder head temp sensor and compare that reading to what the scan tool is reading the actual temp at. Because you would see the temp rise on a little hill I would suspect a possible overheat condition but it may also be the sensor failing when it reaches that specific temp range. Have seen a few CHT's fail in the past on other vehicles.
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:53 PM   #12
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Thanks James. I'll check all this out. Gotta figure out when because we live in it and hard to test all that with the dogs and cats on board...plus I need to get my scan gauge mailed to here from home or spring for a new one.. This gives me some to-do's

I will add that the AC etc wasn't on because it was about 45 deg outside.

I'll report back when I find something...probably a week or so because of family commitments.
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:04 PM   #13
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James...just thought of something: wouldn't the Scan Gauge be reading the same temp sensor as the instruments? Thus why you say use an infrared thingy...which I have one of. So I don't need the Scan Gauge?
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
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James...just thought of something: wouldn't the Scan Gauge be reading the same temp sensor as the instruments? Thus why you say use an infrared thingy...which I have one of. So I don't need the Scan Gauge?

The CHT (cylinder head temp) sensor is wired into the PCM. The PCM will send the engine temp via the network to the cluster for gauge information. So if the sensor, wiring, or PCM is bad, the gauge will read what the PCM is sending it. That is why I like to verify actual engine temps to determine what diag path to take. It is best to compare the two when the symptoms occur. It can be loud with the dog house off but it does aid in the process.
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