V10 rpm

[77Travco]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Have you ever watch a dyno run-up to get HP and torque specs ?
All done at wide open throttle.

It takes energy to create torque, energy comes from fuel.
An engine at 3400 RPMs, with no load, is not burning much fuel.

I have witnessed hundreds of dyno runs over the years. If you run that engine past its max torque point it will start losing torque while hopefully still gaining horsepower. WOT is not always used 100% of the time on dyno runs and definitely not in real world driving when the object is to arrive at and maintain a maximum engine torque value.
Do realize that you can kill HP and torque numbers with too much fuel trim.
I think we are starting to steer this thread off subject... lol.

[Beau388]

An engine's torque (a twisting or torsional value) determined on a dynamometer. An engine's horsepower is a computed value. The only value the vehicle operator concerned with is axle torque. Axle torque can be actually measired by a special dynamometer or or it can be derived by using gear rations and differential rations minus gearing efficiences. Finaly, the axle torque must be adjusted by effective tire radius to detemnine the force availavle move to the vehicle. Anything less does not give a true picture of what is happing.
For example a Diesel engine rated at 800 ftlbs of torque @ 1,800 rpm full trrottle at 60 mph (1 mile/minute) using 20 inch tall tires. The gear reduction would be 3.57 or the axle torque of 2,856 ftlbs axle torque. Now take a gas engine with 460 ftlbs of torque @ 3,000 rpm, with 13 inch tall tires. The gear reduction would be 4.74 or the rear axle torque of 2,180 ftlbs of torque. To find the actual force at the tire tread for the diesel 2,856/1.67 or 1,710 pounds of force. For the gas 2,180/1.43 or 1,535 pounds of force.

Not really on the OP problem, engine life or brake therminal efficiency (BTE). My mind tends to wander at this old age.

[jpstakun]

I never let the engine go above 4000 RPM if I could help it.

[cbr46]

I seen to recall not liking high 3000's RPM when I had an F53. Just trying to keep the motor alive.

That said, I started using Mobil 1 synthetic then switched to Amsoil with 10,000 - 15,000 between changes. I would top off oil ~ 5,000 miles after the change but that was it. I sold the F53 at 147,000 miles. Motor was perfect.

My Toyota gets changed every 15,000 - 20,000 miles since I got it at 30,000 miles. Now it has 350,000 miles and don't have to top off oil between changes.

Wix filters . . . Napa Gold is good, too.

You can change oil every 3,000 miles if you want. I'm just saying I've had great success with long intervals.

- bob

[vito.a]

Marteen, those rod bearings failed because of an oiling issue.
Not because of too much RPM. The bearing rides on a thin film of oil between it and the crankshaft surface. When there is an oil failure it becomes metal against metal.
Its either the oil, oil filter, oil pump, or some other oil related issue.

Castrol (or any other oil) you purchase today is not the same as the oil your engine was tested with when it went through the original Ford durability testing. EPA mandates are forcing oil formulations to constantly reduce ZDDP and CAFE concerns are forcing thinner viscosity.

[BOSTONBERNIE]

Had a 2013 33c at one time and added 5 Star Tuner changed the V10 to a great experience. Really do not know your new engine install but was well worth it on mine. I was pulling a Jeep Wrangler......Jus Sayin.....Safe Travels

[KentZ]

The reason to use 5w/20 is too get oil to the bearings quicker. The cams in the head have no bearings, just the aluminum. This is from Ford. Use synthetic oil and put a tuner in it. I have personally used Brazels and it was worth every penny. Lower shift points and more power. No more high RPMS!

[rlc1825]

Originally Posted by Fiesta48

As my automotive engineer father would say. "Anytime you run any gas engine more than 1/2 of the max RPM for more than a few seconds you've reduced its longevity significanty"
I've never had any gas engine problems in 55+ years following his advice.
Exceptions: Diesels and water craft engines.

My 2017 Canyon Star was my first RV. On my first cross country trip (there have been 6 in total) it was painful to hear the V10 screaming at 4500+rpm so I thought I will stay at 3000-3500 rpm max. Well, that seems impossible.

Without tow-haul engaged even slight downhill grades will cause downshifts and wham, I'm at 4500+ rpm.

So I have no idea how someone could stay at 2500-3000 rpm, but am willing to listen to how I can do this.

[F4Gary]

Not letting a modern gas engine get above 3000 or even 4000 rpm is just ignorance of the design of the engine.

Also worrying about the zinc in your oil in a post 1986ish engine is also ignorant of the machinery. Since around 86, all gas engines have roller lifters and rockers so zinc is not as big a deal as those of us with classic car flat tappet lifters and conventional rockers.
There is some ZDDP is all gas engine oil but it has been highly reduced since they can improve the cats if they don't have to worry about zinc going through them.


CAFE mileage standards dictated going to thinner oils, plus oils have gotten a lot better in the last 30 years.


5W-30 won't hurt an engine and even 10W-30 won't. I personally use 5W-30 with 5000 miles or yearly changes. Any brand will do but I use Penzoil Platinum or Mobile 1.


[steps off soapbox].....

[donr103]

Add eng oil cooler.. a large one like derle.. with fan.. 7 and 8 get the hottest.. Add cold air duct hose 3in to duct cold air to rear of eng on each side.. they make kits.. or you can make up your own.. the improvement is great.. there is just not enough air flow.. also you must keep cooling system tip top.. and Change that trans oil all the time it turns color.. or it's next.. I would add another trans oil cooler with fan.. unless you only use rv in 0 conditions.. i would drop in 160 hi performance thermostat.. don't worry she will warm up.. when you drive.. up mountains.. drive up to limit of temps.. watch trans,eng oil temps.. and back off when gets to what you know the oils are getting to hot.. drive to limits.. back off, pull over ect.. the more cooling you have the longer the limit.. all materials I have read.. trans and eng. will last longer the cooler you run them.. so push hard and burn up again.. or add coolers if you plan to keep rv ..

[LarryinID]

Originally Posted by Gold Pot

I always understood that gas mileage is best at 45 mph for most vehicles and it seems to be correct in my situation. I have noticed that my oil pressure peaks at about 45 mph so I wonder if the two are related. Also, if max oil pressure occurs at about 45 mph, does engine performance degrade due to friction as rpms increase above the rpm found at 45 mph? How about engine life? Any comments?
Rick

Mph not relevant. Different gearing and six plus speed transmissions change things. RPM still meaningful but due to todays materials and machining 4,500 rpm on the V10 is normal.

[LarryinID]

Originally Posted by rlc1825

My 2017 Canyon Star was my first RV. On my first cross country trip (there have been 6 in total) it was painful to hear the V10 screaming at 4500+rpm so I thought I will stay at 3000-3500 rpm max. Well, that seems impossible.

Without tow-haul engaged even slight downhill grades will cause downshifts and wham, I'm at 4500+ rpm.

So I have no idea how someone could stay at 2500-3000 rpm, but am willing to listen to how I can do this.

Why? It would be a mistake.

[twinboat]

The difference in 4500 RPMs in a Ford RV and a car is # of cylinders and insulation.

If you look at your RPMs on your small car, while getting on a highway, it will be up over 4000 RPMs too.

[wrsleeth]

Is anyone familiar with 5 Star tuning?