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Old 02-14-2020, 07:48 PM   #1
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V10 thrown rod

We have a 2014 Georgetown Forest River with 12,000 miles. The last time we had it out was the end of October 2019 and it ran perfectly fine. We live in MD so we donít use it all year, just mostly in the spring, summer and Halloween. It started fine in November but in December it wouldnít start. Had the battery and starter checked and all was good. Long story short after further investigation it was determined that the 3rd piston on the right side was not moving. It was towed to a Ford dealer for repairs and they were told that that piston wasnít moving. Tuesday they called and said they got it started and it wasnít a rod but maybe a broken bolt or valve train issue. Talked to them again today and they tell us they made a mistake and it does have a thrown rod. 3 mechanics looked at it in our driveway and they all agreed thereís no way that should happen without it being a manufacturer defect. The service dept at the dealership says they canít get over it because it just doesnít happen with that low mileage. Ford is NOT accepting any responsibility and we are looking at $13,000 for a long block. Anyone ever heard of this happening? Or had anyone had any luck getting Ford to help out?
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:53 PM   #2
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Just curious what your engine oil change schedule was during the 12k miles over the last 6 years? Ideally, you have had at least 6 or more oil changes?
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:56 PM   #3
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Every 3,000 miles, the oil was clean. No metal on drain plug
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:03 PM   #4
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No oil changes at 12,000 miles/6 years wouldn't be anything to brag about, but it wouldn't by itself cause a rod to go.

The paradigmatic "thrown rod" has to do with friction in the cylinder or the bearings because of lube issues, but an untightened conrod bolt holding the lower half on would cause the same result.

Lawyer up if Ford is intransigent. At 12k, that's nuts.

(Have they pulled the oil pan? Did they discover the lower half sitting there undamaged? That's a bad bolting.)


ETA: One side of the lower would be ripped apart, of course, but I meant if the other side is undamaged - if it released because the nut released or the bolt broke - at 12,000, that's certainly a build defect.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:09 PM   #5
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Every 3,000 miles, the oil was clean. No metal on drain plug

With only 4 oil changes in 6 years could mean there was water from condensation in the oil which would cause a engine failure. The same goes for the oil additives that may have degraded over extended periods. You may want to consider getting a oil sample sent to a lab for analysis as a second opinion.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:15 PM   #6
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Short and sweet is you are SOL because it's at least 5 years old and out of warranty.

I feel bad for you, but it's a fact of life.

I agree it's an odd failure and hopefully you will get some "Good Will" help. That's what we used to do for customers that had unusual failures shortly after warranty ran out.

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Old 02-14-2020, 08:35 PM   #7
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Probably never know now because we explained that we looked in the cylinder with a bore scope and the piston was not moving while turning the motor by hand. The mechanic at the dealer cranked it up and now they are saying the rod is bent.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:37 PM   #8
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We’re not going down without a fight that’s for sure!
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:41 PM   #9
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If the piston is not moving, hopefully it didn't hit the valves. It would be fairly simple to borescope that cylinder, look at the top of the piston and the valves, and if's there's no damage you might be able to get by fine with a new short block. That would save you some money. It's a bummer with such a new engine.

Edit, A number of things can bend a rod; poor fuel/detonation. A hydro-locked cylinder. Find out if the valves are damaged. I would think Ford would like to see that engine for their own education.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:48 PM   #10
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We inspected the cylinder with a bore scope and there was no damage from a stuck valve. Ford dealer is saying if we have to pay out of pocket we should go with a long block for 3 year warranty verses short block with 1 year warranty.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:52 PM   #11
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We inspected the cylinder with a bore scope and there was no damage from a stuck valve. Ford dealer is saying if we have to pay out of pocket we should go with a long block for 3 year warranty verses short block with 1 year warranty.
Whats the difference in price between long and short block?
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:58 PM   #12
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So drop the pan and take a look. Those V-10s are bulletproof these days. I'd never trust a dealer to tell the truth. Again, drop the pan and take a look.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:05 PM   #13
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Whats the difference in price between long and short block?
Not sure, but they did say they would reach out to Ford on our behalf since they also believe it shouldn’t have happened. But they said if Ford did decide to help they would most likely only cover a short block. We got the impression they don’t have much faith that Ford will help though. Once they get back to us I guess we’ll discuss short vs long pricing. Wondering if we could possibly go short block and purchase an extended warranty.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:10 PM   #14
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So drop the pan and take a look. Those V-10s are bulletproof these days. I'd never trust a dealer to tell the truth. Again, drop the pan and take a look.
That’s what we thought they were going to do but for whatever reason that didn’t happen. We had to put our faith in them because we couldn’t find anyone else willing to work on it anywhere near us. And these guys are an hour away.
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