Community Forums

phil-t · 10-28-2017, 04:58 PM

I know I have read some about this problem on some early ('99ish) F53 chassis. I was messing arounf with my 2010 Winnie Vista on an '09 chassis today. I found the wheels to have a gap of .007 on the one hub tab (must have been towards the bottom when I installed the wheels and new tires.
You folks think that .007 chould cause some vibration? Looking for ways to get the wheels center ined a DIY fashion.

LVJ58 · 10-28-2017, 05:50 PM

I thought that steer wheel centering problem was resolved on later model f53 chassis.

I have a 2000 with that problem so I ordered a set of wheel centering shims from Tru-Balance. If interested you can get their website at TRU-BALANCE. The set for both wheels cost $108 which included shipping cost.

Good luck and safe travels....

Waiter21 · 10-29-2017, 10:24 AM

This shouldn't be a problem with the newer F53. I believe on the older F53, the stud holes in the wheel rims were a little larger, and they relied on the tabs for centering. The newer F53, the stud holes are smaller and they tend to center ok without the tabs.

http://www.1999southwind.com/funny-v...tering-on-f53/

..

C-Leigh Racing · 11-08-2017, 09:12 AM

A tire can cause this as well, found this out a few weeks ago after a blow out on the rear. Replaced all 4 rear tires with a higher quality brand, Cooper RM170 Roadmasters & had no bouncing & very little tail wag as well with the new tires. Two more to go on the front & I should be at one hand driving afterwards.
Neil

TeJay · 11-08-2017, 02:20 PM

As reported we think Ford addressed the wheel centering issue. Maybe it has been addressed by several of us did notice there was still some differences (.005 to .010) in the wheels as they were centered over the TABS around the hub center. I've got the new lugs set to do some machining but just have not gotten around to doing it. Still trying to finish some home projects so I better not switch to another.

phil-t · 11-08-2017, 03:25 PM

Wondering if I could just go get a few 14mmX1.5 tapered lugnuts - use 4 them to get the wheel centered, put on the remainder of the OEM nuts and get very "snug", then replace the tapered nuts and torque all. Think I'm going to try it - not an expensive "test" in any case.

C-Leigh Racing · 11-09-2017, 08:37 AM

Sounds like a good little test to see if it will work & probably shouldnt cost that much either.
Neil

TeJay · 11-09-2017, 11:25 AM

phil-t,

Yes your idea will help with the front steer tires. That idea won't work for the rear for the obvious reason. You can buy the tapered sleeves that will align/center both rims at the same time. I just didn't want to spend $100+ for a once in a while fix, especially if it wasn't a noticeable vibration.

I can either buy tapered lug to fit the fronts or machine one as needed. The rear is a different story. It would require a tapered sleeve at least 1/2" to 5/8" deep so it would center both rims on the studs at the same time.

I'm going to do it eventually. We Just have to many things going on so it's low on my priority list.

As stated already I think Ford has done a better job with the hub centered rims on the later models so all I'd like to do is tweak it a bit. When I began this MOD using feeler gauges many of us did notice .003 to .012 difference between the 4 centering hub tabs and the rims. It would be nice to move the rim over or up 1/2 the distance or .015 and .006 which would center the rim.

Don't know if getting it closer to center on the later models will effect it that much but I'd like to get each wheel centered if possible. For what I'll have in this MOD (maybe $30 in lugs and mostly time) it might be worth it. For those with the earlier chassis purchasing the tapered sleeves made a significant difference in vibration that no balancing ever fixed.

Waiter21 · 11-09-2017, 12:01 PM

Quote:

You can buy the tapered sleeves that will align/center both rims at the same time.

TeJay, I'm not sure the sleeves will work on the newer rims..

When we did our tests a couple months ago, I thought your measurements for the lug holes were to small for the sleeves to fit.

I can't remember the thread, but If I remember, my lug holes were larger in diameter, and the sleeves would slide in.

TeJay · 11-09-2017, 04:13 PM

X2 on Waiter21's comments. He has the earlier model with larger stud holes and the sleeves worked. I'm like you I've slept since then and the measurements that I made are lost in the clouds.

In reality the newer models don't have as big an issue with rims being mounted off center. I think they tightened up the tolerances and the rims are closer to being centered. I and others were trying to get them closer based on feeler gauge readings.

On the original thread some one reported that the wheels were off center by .010. When they used the sleeves it stopped the vibration that balancing did not.

Some vibrations are not always felt but still are a source of parts wear and should be reduced or eliminated. If machining a sleeve to further assure that my wheels were centered helped even some I felt it was worth an effort.

C-Leigh Racing · 11-10-2017, 08:07 AM

What was the kit that Ford offered few years back ?. I remember reading about it, but dont remember if was any info listed or a link to check it out.
Neil

TeJay · 11-10-2017, 09:16 AM

Here's a link to the original thread ( F53 Vibration Issues) which was started by Boondockin on 7/04/17. There were 97 posts to the thread.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/f53-v...es-347898.html

I posted then tried the link and it works!!

Maybe the additional information, discussion and pictures will help clarify and bring others up to date at to what was accomplished.

phil-t · 11-10-2017, 02:13 PM

Thanks - Just read the entire thread. Going to try the feeler guage method as a test.

TeJay · 11-10-2017, 03:46 PM

phil-t,

Do as I did. Turn the alignment tabs so one is on top and one on the bottom. Take all lugs off except 4 spaced evenly. Loosen lug nuts so what ever play is present will allow the tire/rim to fall down. Now snug the lugs. Using a feeler gauge measure how much clearance is present. The space at the top should be zero. The space at the bottom tab will be something like .006 or .012. That is how far off center the rim is.

How to fix it?? Lets say the space at the bottom is .010. If you snip a narrow piece of a .005 feeler gauge and stick it in the bottom then roll the tire 180 degrees, loosen the lugs and the rim falls down half the distance or .005. Slip a piece of .005 feeler gauge at5 the top to keep it centered. The rim should be centered on that axis with .005 on each tab. Snug down just 2 lugs.

Rotate the rim 90 degrees to the next set of tabs and repeat the process. If the other tabs have a zero and .012 then a .006 feeler gauge at the bottom then rotate the tire allowing it to fall the .006 then tighten all lugs. You have split the space equally on all 4 tabs and the rim has to be centered.

Yes tapered sleeves would work faster but really this is not a big deal at least on the fronts.

Mark all tabs, rims and feeler gauge spacing so they can be removed and placed back on the same location.