Won't start!

[LVRVLUVR]

Originally Posted by Deny

By chance- Try all the Ignition Keys- they have chips & must be programmed-one of them(or both) could be wrong/bad/ not programed.

And- Do you have an aftermarket Anti-Theft system that is non functional or wrongly engaged?

great reply.... come to think of it I had a new pace arrow do this to me up in northern nev.... seems i had to disconect the coach battery with the key in the on position.. let it set and then re conect after 30 min..

I have CRS though... but i do remember it happening.. and i do rememer getting it started... and i do remember it was a key problem...

[subford]

Originally Posted by Jstroud

Do you know where USP Powe Distribution Box 1 and 2 are? We can't find them. We've ony found the main power distribution box by the motor and the box that's right beside it.

No I do not. I was just going by whats in the 2015 F53 owners manual.

[tderonne]

Originally Posted by Deny

By chance- Try all the Ignition Keys- they have chips & must be programmed-one of them(or both) could be wrong/bad/ not programed.

And- Do you have an aftermarket Anti-Theft system that is non functional or wrongly engaged?

Unless things have changed in the last few years, and the owners' manual is wrong, there's no chip in the key. There's no anti-theft system.

I'm really surprised Roadside Assistance can't help you until Friday. What if you were stuck in a gas station, or someplace like that?

[grtharris]

subford, UPS Power Distribution Box 1 and 2 are only on the F53 Chassis's used for the UPS Trucks. The Motorhome chassis's have a Battery Junction Box (BJB), a Auxiliary Relay Box 1 (up front above the radiator) and the Central Junction Box (CJB) (depends where the coach manufacturer mounts it usually low and to the left of the steering column).

[Jstroud]

Originally Posted by grtharris

subford, UPS Power Distribution Box 1 and 2 are only on the F53 Chassis's used for the UPS Trucks. The Motorhome chassis's have a Battery Junction Box (BJB), a Auxiliary Relay Box 1 (up front above the radiator) and the Central Junction Box (CJB) (depends where the coach manufacturer mounts it usually low and to the left of the steering column).

That is so helpful!! We've been looking for the mysterious missing distribution boxes 1 and 2 for almost a week now! We are a day away from tow. Any other ideas out there?

[subford]

Originally Posted by grtharris

subford, UPS Power Distribution Box 1 and 2 are only on the F53 Chassis's used for the UPS Trucks. The Motorhome chassis's have a Battery Junction Box (BJB), a Auxiliary Relay Box 1 (up front above the radiator) and the Central Junction Box (CJB) (depends where the coach manufacturer mounts it usually low and to the left of the steering column).

I wondered about that as some of the relays and fuses that they listed did the same thing in both panels. But all of those panels was in the Motorhome owners manual. That is why I went ahead an posted them anyway. The owners manual never gave any locations of the fuse/relay boxes/panels.

The fuse box/panel for inside the Motorhome that I did not post an image of had no reference to the fuel pump circuits in its call outs.

[subford]

Originally Posted by Jstroud

Any other ideas out there?

Have you tried having someone put their hand on the fuel pump relay #R2 in the Power Distribution Box and see if it clicks when you turn on the key or crank the engine?

[Jstroud]

Originally Posted by subford

Have you tried having someone put their hand on the fuel pump relay #R2 in the Power Distribution Box and see if it clicks when you turn on the key or crank the engine?

We've not tried that. We have stood by the fuel pump when the key is turned to the on position and listened for the pump, but we don't hear anything

[Mnflyboy]

Why not try whacking the fuel tank a couple of times with a block of wood, a dead blow hammer or equivalent. The fuel pump inside the tank sometimes can get a dead spot (even new ones) and a couple of whacks might set it free. Same principle as a bad starter. Give it a try...what have you got to lose? This exact thing happened to my 07 motorhome...couple of whacks and it fired right up after 2 days of looking at fuses and relays.

Good Luck.

Jaye(Mn)

[Jstroud]

Originally Posted by Mnflyboy

Why not try whacking the fuel tank a couple of times with a block of wood, a dead blow hammer or equivalent. The fuel pump inside the tank sometimes can get a dead spot (even new ones) and a couple of whacks might set it free. Same principle as a bad starter. Give it a try...what have you got to lose? This exact thing happened to my 07 motorhome...couple of whacks and it fired right up after 2 days of looking at fuses and relays.

Good Luck.

Jaye(Mn)

At this point, we will try anything! Tried your suggestion of giving the fuel tank a few food whacks... No luck 😢

[LVRVLUVR]

un hook all the batterys, leave the key in the on position.. wait about 30 minutes..hook it back up and try to start..

make sure the key is on while the batterys are disconnected...
the pcm stores power and you want to drain it to nothing to remove memory..

[wa8yxm]

Regarding the fuel safety cutoff switch,, did you check with FORD on that? or with someone else... I mean, ford built it.

I have driven assorted ford products in the past and assisted many with locating the reset but alas, never a Ford Motor home.

[subford]

Starting with the 2008 F53 Ford eliminated the fuel pump inertia switch.

This information is on page 37 of:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckBBAS...atsnew2008.pdf

Have tried what I said in post 35 above yet?
/

[Elf111]

Have you tried raising your leveling jacks all the way up? Ours will not crank if jacks are down, the levelers are added by the mh manufacturer so may be different by mfg. they may have added a shutoff to prevent moving with jacks down.