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Old 06-15-2021, 10:15 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by zmotorsports View Post
I considered machining some adjustable ones as well but opted to just get my thrust angle checked then adjust accordingly. I then went back and had it double checked after altering my control arms but that was not necessary as it was dead nuts on, plus my alignment guy didn't charge me anything to double check it after I altered the lengths. Personally I don't know if I'd go through the hassle of making them adjustable. Once measured and altered there really should be no reason to have to adjust them again.

If you go the adjustable route, look at some of the Freightliner OTR trucks as they and most other OTR trucks have adjustable control arms.

I like the way you added the gusset to the X-brace on your rear suspension. I did the same on mine as I had seen others crack/break. I did that when I added the rear gussets to the vertical supports back around 2008/2009~ish when I updated mine.
I'll probably do the same as you and have it checked and then adjust the length afterwards. The Freightliner arms may still be an option, but modifying what I have in my shop is hard to beat on price.

I'm feeling pretty comfortable with the strength of the back end now. I figure with the solid inserts in the verticals and the extra gussets it's definitely belt and suspenders.
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Old 07-08-2021, 01:22 PM   #30
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So last week I finally got around to replacing the front shocks and we took a short trip. The shocks only took about an hour to do on the front. We were very happy with the result and I don't seem to have a pull to one side or the other. I will still get the alignment checked to make sure everything is good.

After we got home I tackled the HWH leveling 6 packs. I had one bad solenoid that was popping a fuse. I didn't need the whole valve, so I bought a Hydraforce HY 6302012 coil for about $25 off of Amazon. the resistance is about 11 ohms compared to 15.6 on the ones that were on it. I don't think it will cause any problems and is about $120 cheaper. I had to solder my connector on to make it work, but everything is fine now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...F8&psc=1buying a


Afterwards I found these 6309412 coils on the Hydraforce site that I believe have the correct connector on them and have some coming as spares.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


For the leaks, I used viton orings sized 015 and 028 after complete disassembly and a good cleaning and buff with an scotchbrite disc in my drill.

Now everything rides nice and sits level and quiet when we are parked.
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Old 07-08-2021, 01:35 PM   #31
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Great job. Glad to hear everything is working as it should.
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Old 07-14-2021, 06:24 AM   #32
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Good job, always nice to get something off the list and is a success!
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Old 07-15-2021, 10:42 PM   #33
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Good job, always nice to get something off the list and is a success!
May have celebrated too quickly.

There are no external leaks that I can detect, but it's still leaking down slowly.

I'm suspecting some internal leakage in the spools. I guess the 6 packs are coming back out for more testing. I've seen some info elsewhere about rebuilding the valves, themselves.

I hate leaks and rattles. I'm sure I bought enough with this unit to last a lifetime of chasing.
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Old 07-30-2021, 11:00 PM   #34
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Thanks for posting pictures and details on the rear H frame brace and repair.
Do you remember the inside diameter of the vertical tube?

I also had the left front shock on the rear axle shear off at the top. I used a shorty carbide bit in a 90 degree drill to drill a hole in the mounting plate and then used an aircraft F911 grade bolt to hold the upper shock.

My theory: The original Bilstein shocks were installed with the bolts going through the rubber shock bushing. The new Bilstein shocks come with a steel insert inside the rubber bushing for better support. I think the original rubber bushing pounds out and then it has enough free play to hammer the mount until it breaks.

Did you install Koni shocks all around?
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