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Old 01-29-2018, 08:49 AM   #15
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I suspect the shocks are acting as limiters on my coach.
I began drilling a hole in the mount plate but the bit shattered. I need to grind out the small piece of drill bit remaining.
I ordered some cobalt drill bits and 2 new Bilstein shocks.
I'll reattack it again next week.
That sucks. Check out the "Rescue Bit". https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Bit/b/...bin=Rescue+Bit

Not cheap but said to get the job done (drilling out broken hardened drill bits and bolt extractors). I have not used one myself, but on my car forum, others have said it works very well.
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:56 PM   #16
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Mike, thanks for the link. If these work, it will be a lot cheaper than driving this coach up to Source Engineering for new shocks.
I'm told that broken shock mounts are common on these coaches.
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Old 02-03-2018, 08:11 PM   #17
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I used a carbide cutter to notch the hole slightly and then pulled the broken drill bit out with a small screw driver.

I bought some 5/32" shorty cobalt drill bits and managed to drill a 5/32" hole all the way through the plate. The plate plus the flange is about 1/2" thick. I tried to enlarge the hole a little at a time and of course the bits seized up and broke (at least 3 times). Each time I was able to insert the small screw driver in from the back side (blindly) and push the broken pieces out.

I now have the hole drilled to 1/4" dia all the way through and then ran into another issue. I only have about 8" between the frame rail and the shock mount, so I'm using a right angle drill with short bits. The right angle drill only has a 3/8" chuck, so I'm going to need some shorty drill bits that also have a turned down shank (if they exist).

Or possibly use a carbide cutter to open the hole up to 1/2". Most carbide cutters are high speed and the highest speed on this drill is only 2000rpm.

I'm open for ideas?
Thanks
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Old 02-05-2018, 11:36 AM   #18
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Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/ZMZ-Titanium-...852070&sr=1-15
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Old 02-09-2018, 09:12 PM   #19
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I re-attacked the broken shock mount this afternoon. I used a small right angle air die grinder and a carbide burr. I was able to open the 1/4" hole up to 1/2".

A 1/2" diameter bolt fits through it nicely now. I ordered some F911 1/2-20 x 3" bolts. These bolts are rated at 180,000psi tensile strength. With a spacer between the mount plate and the shock, it really needs a 4" long bolt so I'm reordering them.

I used .750"OD X .120 wall, (.510ID) 4130 steel tubing to make bushings. We turned the outside down to .710" and it slips into the 18.1mm upper shock eye and a 1/2" bolt fits through the inside. This is very similar to the way the bottom of the shock is mounted.

Thanks everyone for the advice.
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Old 02-10-2018, 06:20 AM   #20
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Nice work in that small space!
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:19 AM   #21
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Thanks, it is very tough to fit anything up in there.

Some interesting thoughts/ideas. The shock that was attached here did not have a steel bushing inside the shock upper rubber grommet. The rubber grommet is trashed allowing quite a bit of movement for the shock. The shock is also in bad shape. I can compress or extend it easily. I'm not understanding what destroyed this shock, or maybe it was bad from the beginning.

I removed the shock just opposite this one on the passenger side and it is still in very good condition. I still want to remove the shock just aft of this one (on the same drivers side of the rear axle) and test it.

Also, with the air suspension raised as far as it will go, there is still at least 2" of shock travel remaining. That almost negates the theory that the lack of limiters is breaking the upper mounts. I'm beginning to think (but not sure) that excess play in the upper bushing allows the shock to hammer the mounting stud eventually breaking it. Also, welding the shock stud to the mount plate could have removed the heat treatment.

All of the new designed Bilstein shocks have a steel bushing inside the upper rubber grommet. The nitrogen preload is also not very high. I can compress a new Bilstein shock with aprox 30# of pressure and when released, it extends slowly. This is just enough to prevent gas bubbles. In comparison, the Bilstein sport shocks on my Z06 have over 150# of preload.
Some folks have said their coach ride was very rough with Bilstein shocks but I'm having a hard time understanding how 30# of preload (even multiplied by 10 shocks) can negatively influence the ride quality on a 42,000# coach. Possibly the older Bilstein shocks had a higher preload? I'd like to have a Koni and Monroe shock to compare.

I'm also debating how many shocks to replace. The opposite side shock I replaced was in very good condition. I've installed two new ones so far, and not sure if I should install two more making all new on the drive axle, or install six making all the rear shocks including the tag new.
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:46 AM   #22
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I'm also debating how many shocks to replace. The opposite side shock I replaced was in very good condition. I've installed two new ones so far, and not sure if I should install two more making all new on the drive axle, or install six making all the rear shocks including the tag new.
I would just replace the two (driver and passenger side) on the same axle.

No reason to replace the others if they are good. IMO. But I do think any time you have to replace one (damaged), you need to replace the matching one on the same axle.
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Old 03-01-2018, 12:10 PM   #23
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For anyone else replacing shocks on an RR10S Roadmaster chassis, it uses Bilstein part number 24-187312, 10 each, (4 on front axle, 4 on drive axle, and 2 on tag axle). Bilstein uses the same shock front and rear.
These are the new Comfort Valve versions with some design changes from the original.
I've decided to change the 4 on the drive axle for now.

I found them on Amazon for $80.20 each.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Spartan guys are raving about installing Koni shocks on the front axle. Koni's are twice the price and I haven't decided yet if they are worth it.
Koni uses different shocks front and rear. 8805 1004 for front, and 8805 1005 for the rear. This is the FSD Gold Koni motorhome shock.
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Old 03-02-2018, 11:46 AM   #24
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I found them on Amazon for $80.20 each.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the link.
So to be sure I understand, the link you provided is for shocks with the new "comfort valving"?
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Old 03-02-2018, 03:13 PM   #25
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Thanks for the link.
So to be sure I understand, the link you provided is for shocks with the new "comfort valving"?
Yes. I've purchased four of these new Bilsteins from Amazon. The noticeable differences are a steel bushing inside the rubber grommet on both ends and a lighter gas pre-load.

I would be interested to hear from anyone with the Koni Gold shocks?
The best price I've found for Koni's is at the Shock Warehouse, $157.23 each.
Bilstein - KYB - Rancho - Monroe - KONI Shocks and Struts - Shockwarehouse.com
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Old 03-03-2018, 10:32 AM   #26
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I installed the two rear Bilstein shocks on the drive axle. These are mounted together behind the drive axle with the tag axle shocks only about 4" apart.
Half the work installing them is crawling underneath only to find out you need a different socket or wrench. For these two shocks you need to raise the chassis all the way up on the air bags and place jack stands under the rear frame rail next to the engine mount.
The top mounting studs are easy to unbolt. Use a 3/4" socket and a long (10-12") extension with a ratchet and you can unbolt the top nut from the outside standing there. Then just pull the shock off the stud.

For the bottom bolt you will have to crawl underneath. You need a 7/8" wrench for the lock nut (not enough room for a ratchet & socket) and a 13/16" socket and long handle ratchet. These bolts are TIGHT! It would help to have a short pipe to place over the 7/8" wrench. Then tap the bolt out and remove the shock. The bottom mount is very close to the tag axle shock, but you can work the shock out.

Then from outside install the new shock onto the top mounting stud and let the bottom hang loose near the bottom mount. Then install and tighten the 3/4" nut. The new shocks have a steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing both top and bottom. The original 2004 Bilstein shocks do not have a steel sleeve on the top, so the nut was slightly loose and only tightening against the rubber. On mine the rubber on one shock was distorted and the shock was completely worn out.

Now you need to get back underneath and lift the bottom of the shock up above the bottom mount and guide it in between the mount plates. It fits very tight in between the mount plates. Let the shock gas pressure preload push the shock down until the bolt is aligned. I used a large tapered punch to insert into the mount hole and pry the shock eye into alignment with the hole. Then tap the bolt in, nut towards the inside and install the 7/8" lock nut. I also like to coat the bolt and nut with anti seize.

I've changed out 4 drive axle shocks and had two that look new and two that were trashed. One of the bad ones was so bad it sheared the upper mount stud.

Also, I found the suspension travel limiters. They are chains with black convolute tubing around them. They are located between the tag and drive axle.
While you are under there, inspect the vertical suspension mounts behind the axle. There are other threads showing large cracks on these. Luckily, mine look good. I need to think about adding braces in the future.
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Old 03-06-2018, 09:08 PM   #27
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Must have Bilsteins . They are too stiff. I went to Josams and had konis put on. Pricey but a much better ride. Used to feel every expansion joint. Josams broke two studs trying to get all of them off. They drilled our and used bolts.
Did you have standard Bilsteins or the "comfort ride" Bilsteins on your coach? I think the comfort ride are valved from source for the RR8 chassis?
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Old 03-07-2018, 06:51 PM   #28
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My coach came with standard Bilstein shocks (10 each). I replaced the 4 on the rear drive axle with new Bilstein Comfort Valve shocks from Amazon.

Source Engineering has custom valved Bilstein shocks for each variation of Roadmaster chassis, (both 46mm and 60mm shocks). I hear great reviews on these shocks.
Source Engineering Inc | Custom RV Chassis | Eugene, OR
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