Community Forums

bdawson11 · 06-13-2015, 09:16 PM

I have a cummins 5.9 and I pulled out my radiator to exchange for a new one about 3 weeks ago. I most always take pics before dismantling but yep I didn't this time. I need a pic of the area showing the dip stick, oil filler and ps reservoir at the rear of the coach. Also need a pic of top of motor where the oil filler tube crosses under or over the turbo fresh air intake that comes out of the air cooler ( pass side of motor). This is where my problem is I Don't know if I got the oil filler tube mounted correctly as it is in the way of the turbo fresh air piping. I hope that explains it well appreciate any help.

kidoo · 07-20-2015, 02:35 PM

HI, I have a cayman 2003. Do you still need picture? I do have a very small leak on mine. How big of a job is it to remove and reinstalled? It must be quite heavy. Did you have to remove the hitch or does it pull from the top, and what about the fan?

The shop I went to charges $700 jsut to remove it and $2000 to rebuild mine. They might be able to repare it but not sure, they have to take it off to test it.

bdawson11 · 07-23-2015, 09:32 PM

Sorry for the delay, I took a quick trip to Yosemite and just got back. No longer need pictures. I too had a small leak thought it would be better to take care of it at home versus on the road when a bigger leak would developed. My radiator was aluminum which is not rebuildable. I bought a new one from Oregon for $2800 (radiatorsupplyhouse.com). It is copper core with steel tanks which is rebuildable. The original Monaco supplier also in Oregon (radiator Specialties) has all copper radiators for about the same price. The radiator lifts up thru the opening so no you don't have to remove your hitch which is actually part of the rear engine mount. It took me the better part of the day to reinstall. The aluminum was heavy but the steel one was heavier. Diffinently need 2 people to put it back in. If time lapses between removal and install take pics . My problem was getting the oil filler tube routed properly by the turbo cold intake tube. Its diffenently something a handy guy can do. If you decide to tackle it don't hesitate to ask a question if you run into a problem

kidoo · 07-24-2015, 01:24 PM

Thanks, mine has the intercooler bolted on top of the radiator and the fan frame is foward of the two radiators. There is also the little transmission rad but this one does not seem to be a problem.

Did you have to take the intercooler and fan frame off to lift the rad? Over here, they want to rebluild my aluminum one with bigger truck tubing which should be more durable, if it last another 12 years, it will be fine and it will be time to retire from traveling.

Thanks.

bdawson11 · 07-25-2015, 01:02 PM

Yes I had to remove everything in front of the radiator intercool, trans cooler and ps reservoir then it lifted right out the top. The fan shroud stays where it is. I was told the aluminum was not rebuildable and there was a high failure rate among those type of radiators that's why their no longer building them of that material, but then i'm only going on what I was told by the radiator shops. The new steel one I have seems to be bullet proof ( one i've seen in semi trucks) and is rebuildable if ever needed. It was a pretty good size job but i've got more time than money so I wasn't afraid of tackling it.

kidoo · 07-25-2015, 02:15 PM

Thanks, My intercooler is on top of the rad and the trans cooler is behind the rad and just bolted to it. I do not think I have to remove the Intercooler. I think I can do this job.

1. PS unbolted and probably cut the PS braket to make room.
2. Move the PS out of the way, line still connected.
3. Remove the air filter indicator.
4. Unscrew the intercooler from the coolant rad.
5. Unscrew the trans cooler from the coolant rad and unscrew the lines from the coolant rad and disconnect.
6. Remove trans rad.
7. Cut part of the bumper to make room for the rad to come out, it looks kind of thight and I do not want to mess with it. The bumper goes inside pass the doors so it won't show, I will just nicely screw it back in for ease of removal if there is a next time.
8. Empty the radiator, disconnect the two hoses, unscrew the 4 bolts that holds the rad to the frame, pull it back then lift it up.

Do you think this is about it?

Thanks

bdawson11 · 07-26-2015, 01:20 PM

I ground the welds to remove the ps brackets then just bolted them back on, the same with the air filter indicator. The intercooler is quite easy to remove and in doing so I don't think you'll have to trim any fiberglass. The radiator is about 2x4 ft and you need all the room you can get to remove it. If you get a new one measure all aspects of it comparing it to your old one.. I found the 2'' hose connectors were off about a 1/4'' which caused me to enlarge the holes they go through in the fan shroud. If I did it again I would consider going with Radiator Specialties since they were the radiator manuf for Monaco and maybe still are I don't know.

kidoo · 07-27-2015, 10:02 AM

Thanks for the detailled info., it is reassuring and saving $1000 is a big chunk in my pocket. I was thinking of cutting the PS and filter indicator brackets too and rebolt it, thanks for confirming.

As you say for the intercooler, it looks like there is only 2 collar to undo plus the 3 bolts to remove from the big rad. It makes sense not to cut the bumper.

And for the bolted part, it looks like it have to fit perfectly, othewise there will be some fitting to do.

http://www.cgj.com/search-results?sv=bt8501b sells the BT8501B rad which looks like mine and the guy confirmed the fit, but will it fit bolt on... not 100% sure. It says to make sure the hose connector measure is 18.6875 inch center to center, pretty precise measurement.

It is hard to find repair info on these Motorhome. Too bad it is not like the pickup truck people, I find tons of info. to fix my F350. Most RV people are just paying and walk away, probably because this is mostly retired community and they do not want to do mechanic anymore, or never did, or just think this is "very special" piece of engineering.

Thanks again

bdawson11 · 07-27-2015, 10:10 PM

Your Welcome. Need any further help just holler while the info is still fresh in my mind cause i'll loose it like I do my keys

kidoo · 07-29-2015, 07:46 AM

OK, one more then..., there is 3 bolts that holds the intercooler / trans cooler over top of the radiator. Are the nuts welded under or else? I unscrewed them and I could take the bolt off but the nut stayed there. They are pretty hidden under the rad framing.

When they recore the rad, I am a bit scared of those nuts, it must have to align pretty good so the intercooler fits over?

bdawson11 · 07-30-2015, 10:33 AM

The nut plates are welded on. If you end up with a small alignment issue you get enlarge the bolt holes a bit to give you some adjustment. But if your having the radiator recored everything should bolt right back together without any alignment issues.

kidoo · 07-31-2015, 07:31 AM

Ok thanks, I was wondering how these fit under there. The rad started to leak baddly after I cleaned and brushed the holes to see where it was leaking. So I should get to this pretty soon.

Thanks again