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02-02-2025, 12:57 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 8,034
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Can you install a FASS system?
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Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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02-02-2025, 01:55 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mayer AZ
Posts: 194
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Yes but I don't know what am I replacing?
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1998 40' Monaco Dynasty,Roadmaster C8.3, 325
1999 E350 Ford Van,
2004 Buick Rendezvous
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02-02-2025, 02:29 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: WI Driftlesser
Posts: 2,518
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This engine needs a FASS pump like it needs a vertical straight pipe exhaust. If you can't get this going, then a FASS is not going to be any help.
Luck of the draw if the mechanic has a better way to get it going. He might put a couple PSI of air pressure on the fuel tank, and then bleed the air manually. Or might use a vacuum pump, or rig in a fuel pump. Or he might crank it till he kills your starter...
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"Bringing third world electrical work to first world luxury." RV makers of Murica!
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02-02-2025, 02:47 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mayer AZ
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafariBen
This engine needs a FASS pump like it needs a vertical straight pipe exhaust. If you can't get this going, then a FASS is not going to be any help.
Luck of the draw if the mechanic has a better way to get it going. He might put a couple PSI of air pressure on the fuel tank, and then bleed the air manually. Or might use a vacuum pump, or rig in a fuel pump. Or he might crank it till he kills your starter...
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Well yes this FASS pump is not my solution you right I don't know why people bother posting useless info, nevertheless I run out of fuel ones and the mechanic used a vacuum pump i think cycling something and got I started after adding 30 gal fuel I didn't watch didn't want to bother him so I don't know the procedure.
I try the alternate start every 4 minutes but stopt didn't wanna kill the starter
I don't want to be installing new parts until I really know what causing the problem
I am still waiting for the roadservise an account its weekend
Thanks for spending the time with me....
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1998 40' Monaco Dynasty,Roadmaster C8.3, 325
1999 E350 Ford Van,
2004 Buick Rendezvous
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02-02-2025, 08:58 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 16,155
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Create an account on Cummins Quickserve
Once you have an account register your engine using SN
From there you will have access to the maintenance manuals. Under the service tab there is a Symptoms lookup. Type in the symptoms. If you have a way to recover fault codes there is a fault code lookup.
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Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD Cummins ISC 350 8.3L
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
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02-02-2025, 09:26 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mayer AZ
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames
Create an account on Cummins Quickserve
Once you have an account register your engine using SN
From there you will have access to the maintenance manuals. Under the service tab there is a Symptoms lookup. Type in the symptoms. If you have a way to recover fault codes there is a fault code lookup.
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I got that thanks for remind me.
__________________
1998 40' Monaco Dynasty,Roadmaster C8.3, 325
1999 E350 Ford Van,
2004 Buick Rendezvous
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02-02-2025, 10:51 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: WI Driftlesser
Posts: 2,518
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If this is a 325hp C8.3, there are no codes for the engine, there is no ECU, the engine has only one solenoid on the fuel injection pump control, you can tie that open with a zip tie or wire. The only engine computer is the controller for the intake heater.
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"Bringing third world electrical work to first world luxury." RV makers of Murica!
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02-03-2025, 06:22 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mayer AZ
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafariBen
If this is a 325hp C8.3, there are no codes for the engine, there is no ECU, the engine has only one solenoid on the fuel injection pump control, you can tie that open with a zip tie or wire. The only engine computer is the controller for the intake heater.
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Yes that solenoid is working fine
__________________
1998 40' Monaco Dynasty,Roadmaster C8.3, 325
1999 E350 Ford Van,
2004 Buick Rendezvous
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02-03-2025, 12:40 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mayer AZ
Posts: 194
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OK I removed the Winn pump and not working where can I get one
I assume is 12v and I test it correctly or do I need to connect the yellow thing the name don't come to mind
__________________
1998 40' Monaco Dynasty,Roadmaster C8.3, 325
1999 E350 Ford Van,
2004 Buick Rendezvous
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02-03-2025, 04:09 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: WI Driftlesser
Posts: 2,518
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That yellow thing looks like a capacitor, I'm guessing it's related to voltage spikes from the pump operation. In the short term I don't think it's vital to the pump working. I'd hook the pump up to 12v and give it a whack with a screwdriver handle to see if it will kick on.
If you can't find a replacement, there are plenty of alternatives. I probably would NOT replace it, instead use the schrader valve to suck the air out of that filter, then relieve the pressure at the secondary filter while cranking occasionally.
__________________
"Bringing third world electrical work to first world luxury." RV makers of Murica!
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02-03-2025, 08:38 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: WI Driftlesser
Posts: 2,518
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You had the suction pump pulling air out the schrader valve, keep doing that till you get only fuel, then pump the priming plunger on the transfer pump, or crank the engine ten seconds, then suck more air out. Don't try to add fuel there, or put the valve core back, just put the cap on it to hold until you get it to start and warm up.
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"Bringing third world electrical work to first world luxury." RV makers of Murica!
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