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Old 12-21-2017, 10:54 AM   #15
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You said you replaced the CAC. Why - was damage found once it was removed or did you have it tested while it was out?

It didn't sound from your first post that you were expecting/planning to replace the CAC as part of the job.

It sounds like a CAC costs more than a radiator.
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Old 12-22-2017, 05:11 AM   #16
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That is correct I did not plan on replacing the CAC. Everything is sandwiched together as you know, and the frame for the CAC was rusted out where it trapped debris with no place to go. Poor design. The radiator prices were all over the place from $4600.00 to $9800.00 so the cost is considerably different. I hope to never have to do that job again, mainly because everything had to be removed from the bottom.
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:11 AM   #17
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Mike,
You did not ask me but in my case I rebuilt mine by installing new CAC end plate seals and hardware. Also like Whitetop had to replace some steel mount structure due to crud collecting in there and corroding it.
I GUARANTEE if I had not done the work myself a new CAC would have been called for. The reason why is that JB Radiator (the original manufacture) absolutely would not sell me the parts to fix it nor would Monaco. It drove me nuts to have to spend a minimum of $2400 on a new "welded" CAC when everyone says the bolt together design was better as it does not crack as easily. Knowing the parts are simple (yet very specific to this cooler) it seemed crazy to spend that kind of money over a few dollars worth of seals.
I worked with JB Radiator over a month or so and finally talked him into selling me the seals. It was a hassle but worth it!
I pressure tested the CAC to 40 PSI with zero leaks which scared the heck out of me honestly fearing it would blow out somewhere and kill me!!

Like the OP I drove my coach onto some home made solid ramps but only in the rear. I believe I raised the coach about 10 inches at the drive axle, left the front steers on the floor. This raised the back of the coach (because of the overhang) high enough to slide the radiator out the bottom on a floor jack with wheels. Difficult but doable.

As he said, with basic mechanical ability and some effort, this is a job that can be done and save significant amounts of cash.
Just take it easy, take pictures, think it through and have a little help when it comes time to unbolt, move and reinstall the assembly.

On a side note, when researching all this I found that the ISX and DD series which uses the large single hydraulic fan instead of the two smaller fans have issues.
The issue is the large fan is BIG and heavy. It moves a LOT of air. The mount brackets for this fan motor crack which allows the fan to move and eventually it moves into the radiator blowing everything up.
Point is, we should all be mindful of inspecting our fans and mounts maybe yearly or something. Trust me, you do not want this to happen to you!
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:34 AM   #18
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Windecker, did you take any pictures?
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:41 AM   #19
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Yes however I'm at Lazydays for Christmas and pictures are at home. Can share when I return.
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Old 12-23-2017, 12:23 PM   #20
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I course.
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Old 12-24-2017, 03:12 PM   #21
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I was told by Monaco, the JR Radiator was not the manufacturer of my current unit. As I asked for a new copper unit, I was told by the tech, that, they have gone to a new source, due to quality control issues. Am I incorrrct, as the leakage issue is occurring on the identical location... the lower rear? Part of my problem is that I did not put my copper radiator lin writing.
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Old 01-02-2018, 06:57 AM   #22
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Pictures

Here are a few before and after pictures of this mess! Captions above pictures.

Lower forward corner, this is actually the transmission cooler lines going into the end cap.
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View looking aft up at one of the fans and hydraulics, cooler bottom stabilizer mount (anti sway).
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CAC and Transmission cooler hook up.
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Another view.
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Various components before removal.
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The CAC with the end cap removed. Notice the steel plate that the rubber seal butts against, there are 2 steel plates sandwiching the rubber seal in place. Those three parts are the ticket!

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Notice the steel small sandwich plate, then the rubber seal then the larger steel plate. These plates combine with the end cap to squeeze the rubber against the CAC core to seal it up. Once bolted up, it can move a tiny bit to allow for heating and cooling expansions which come at rapid rates while driving and working the engine hard.

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Nasty radiator steel shroud before painting.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slemnah View Post
Windecker, did you take any pictures?
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:26 AM   #23
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More pictures

More pictures.
Hydraulic cooler, notice the nasty corrosion on the top of it. After redoing this I painted the mating surfaces with Zinc Chromate to prevent galvantic corrosion between the steel radiator mount and the aluminum cooler.
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Detail picture of the CAC bolt together...

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Another angle...
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After lots of scraping, sanding, bead blasting, painting and such.
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Assembly reinstalled.
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Another angle.
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Repainted, repaired, replaced...
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More of the same.
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Front view, CAC and transmission cooler. Repainted frame, all new hoses.
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Attached Thumbnails
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:30 AM   #24
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I guess I remembered it incorrectly. I had the rear of the coach backed up onto some homemade wood ramps but now I remember that the 10 inch ones raised the back to high to work on so I lowered it. I think I used 4 inch ramps, front axle not on ramps, back airbags blown all the way up for removal and re installation, front deflated.

JB Radiator was definitely my manufacture back in 99, no doubt. I would guess the new ones come from Source Engineering. Those guys are nice to deal with (Source).

Mine did not leak, I replaced my radiator because of fin rot, the fins were discolored on the aft lower corner. You just touch them and they would fall apart. No way to trust that on the open road!

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Old 01-02-2018, 07:44 AM   #25
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Thanks for all the pics. What did you use to drop it out and lift it back in?
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Old 01-03-2018, 10:44 AM   #26
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It has been a few years ago but as I recall I tried using straps with some slack in them to hold the unit from dropping to the floor in case of lowering attempt failure
I believe we used floor jacks, one on the front and one on the rear with wood blocks to get high enough on top of the jacks. Lowered them carefully, re-strapped the radiator from the top, put smaller blocks of wood between the jack and radiators, lowered again, re-strapped and so on till the unit was all the way down.
Then the fun part, getting it out from under there. As I recall, using help we rotated it horizontally onto a mechanics creeper that had some wood on it to prevent it from getting poked or whatever. Then just rolled it out from under there. The trick really was getting the coach high enough to allow room to rotate the unit onto it's side. I had 3 total sets of hands and could have used 4 sets (including myself).
Going back together was much easier since I knew what I was doing by then, there was nothing dripping or draining on me, no rust in my eyes and it was all clean so to speak. Two of us were able to handle it from the creeper to vertical under the coach and used ratchet staps to raise it to position. The assembly is heavy but not crazy.
That said, DO remove the fan(s) or it will not only be much heavier but much bulkier.

I am sure I have forgotten many parts of this but again, it is not complex to do, just think it through and have some help for the in and out part.

I have more pictures but can't find them
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Thanks for all the pics. What did you use to drop it out and lift it back in?
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