Best shocks for the$

[dawoody]

I think we need new shocks, any opinion on best shocks for there performance and price. They are for 2002 spartan mm chassis. Thanks Woody

[Ray,IN]

I bought Bilstein shocks from shockwarehouse.com, i'm quite happy with their performance since purchase 5 years ago. They also sell Koni shocks for our chassis, although at a higher price.

[mrwrench]

How do you remove the front shock? I think the lower bolt will hit the bar...

[Ray,IN]

Yep, you're right it does. The tie rod end must be removed. Spartan sells a modification kit with a bolt N nut to replace that nut N long stud.
I didn't find that out until I already had new shocks installed.
If you are careful when removing the tie-rod end and replacing, you don't need a new wheel alignment.
Spartan recommends using a puller to remove the rod end, but mackwrench here says he used a hammer judiciously to knock it out. Hopefully he'll be along to fully explain.

[mackwrench]

Only need to drop one end of tie-rod to gain access to lower shock bolt.
Don't hit the tie-rod, loosen the nut, hit hard and with as big a hammer you can swing, on the spindle area where the rod end is .. hopefully it'll shock it loose.
As long as you don't loosen the big but on the rod end, no wheel alignment will be affected.

If you have to you can use a pickle fork tool, but it'll risk damage to the tie-rod boot.

[centurion95]

Replaced Bilstein with Koni. Difference between night and day! Spend the money and buy the Koni's.

[AggrevatedRv]

Originally Posted by centurion95

Replaced Bilstein with Koni. Difference between night and day! Spend the money and buy the Koni's.

Agreed night and day difference!

[bentjm]

Most people that post here are replacing original shocks that are 10+ years old.

ANY new shock from ANY manufacturer will be better than a 10+ year old worn out original equipment shock.

[Ohio44718]

I would suggest staying away from Shockwarehouse.com. They sold me the wrong shocks, got a RMA number then refused to return my money. Check the BBB site on the number of complaints and check online complaints. Just a heads up.

[L-M-L]

If you use a hammer to knock the tie-rod loose, back remove the cotter pin and back the nut off until it is even with the end of the threads. Then hit it with a big hammer. When you back the nut off even with the threads you normally won't mess up the threads. I have had to replace lots of tie-rod ends because of someone trying to replace them their selves and end up swelling the threads up trying to get the tie-rod end. Like the others said if you use a pickle fork to loosen the tie-rod end, it will tear the boot.

[jaydee325]

Tie rod ends are tapered. Never hammer the threads of the tie rod end. Use two hammers, hit on opposite sides of the lever the tapered end of the tie rod is inserted and it will pop out pretty easily! Learned this method in auto shop circa early '70s!!

[twinboat]

Here is a picture with a arrow pointing where to hit the steering arm to pop out the end.

Loosen the nut a bunch and hit in line with the arm. If you hit to the right or left of the arrow, some of the hit will be absorbed by the steering.

Been doing it that way on cars, light and heavy trucks since the early 70s. Bigger the joint, the bigger the hammer.

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[Alpine36]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Here is a picture with a arrow pointing where to hit the steering arm to pop out the end.

Loosen the nut a bunch and hit in line with the arm. If you hit to the right or left of the arrow, some of the hit will be absorbed by the steering.

Been doing it that way on cars, light and heavy trucks since the early 70s. Bigger the joint, the bigger the hammer.Attachment 382740

Sent from my SM-A025V using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

It only took me about thirty years to figure out an air hammer works very well for this purpose…or the “BFH”, but the air hammer works better in tight areas and lessens the chance of a swing and a miss foul ball. Loosen the nut a few threads to protect the threads if the BFH goes wrong, but never ever strike the threads of the tie rod end.

PS, buy the Koni’s.