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ScottRussell · 03-17-2015, 08:28 PM

Ran all last year with no issues. This year, had some paint work done, and a couple of new awnings installed by a good collision repair shop. Brought it home about a month ago, and it's been sitting since then, on a level surface, but outside. Now, suddenly, without any previous signs of any issues, the air system is mysteriously only able to generate about 20psi of air pressure, which of course won't lift the air bags, or disengage the brakes.

I've looked at the manual, and it mentions inspecting the inlet and outlet from the camshaft driven compressor on the engine for carbon deposits, but other than that, from what I've been able to find, these compressors are fairly bullet proof. What could be causing this?

It's a 97' Holiday Rambler Imperial 40WDS with a C8.3 mechanical injected Cummins, and it has about 75K miles on it. As I already mentioned, the air system performed flawlessly all year last year and also on the drive to and from the shop that did the paint work and awning installation. Oh, and BTW, I replaced the air drier filter, and the small coalescing filter down in the drier mid summer last year.

Any guidance or thoughts are greatly appreciated.

racer0624 · 03-18-2015, 04:39 AM

I had a '98 American Eagle with what may be the same issue. It turned out to be a failure of the braided ss line coming out of the compressor. I found it by running the engine to get the pressure as high as it would go, turn the engine off and started wiggling lines.

NHRA225 · 03-18-2015, 04:46 AM

First I'd call Spartan.
My Older Eagle did the same thing 2 years ago and I had to replace the Norgren Ride Height or Control Valve.
But first things first, if your handy obviously look for leaks and in your case it would be a massive leak. Then I would dump all of the Air and disconnect the main Air line to your Dryer- start the engine and determine if your compressor is working , you'll know by the amount of Air coming from the line. if your good there re-connect that line to the Dryer and try again.
Let us know what you find.

twinboat · 03-18-2015, 04:56 AM

The air line from the compressor to the air dryer, will only leak air when the engine is running. To find a leak, you need to listen while running or look it over, especially near any clamps that holds it to brackets.

At the first tank, after the air dryer, you can hook up a shop compressor to the drain valve, and crawl around, looking for a leaks, with out the engine running.

Do check the drain port on the air dryer for leaks, while running. The valves stick open.

Good luck

brobox · 03-18-2015, 05:04 AM

Good chance you have a major air leak underneath. Air systems do die of old age.
You can hook up an axillary compressor to your air chuck and pressurize the system without the 350 engine noise and listen to where the leak is coming from. The higher volume compressor the better.

Mine on a 10 year old MH was the ride height valve above the rear axle. It was split wide open. My new MH was delivered with 2 split airlines in the frame and the entire air system was replaced. It can happen on brand new coaches. The replacement was done at the Spartan Factory.

ScottRussell · 03-18-2015, 11:25 AM

Getting it up high enough to get under it will prove challenging if we can't air it up with an external air source. I'm hoping that the air outlet (male Morse air fitting) in the front driver's side storage compartment that we normally use as an air source for airing up tires etc. can be used in reverse to air up the RV's air system using an external compressor. From what I've been able to read, it sounds like it can work that way.

The biggest problem right now is, it's sitting on grass and the ground is still horribly wet from tons of rain, and a few inches of snow over the last several weeks. It's been warm the last few days, but still far from dry, so any thoughts of jacking it up are simply not phyically possible with the ground being so soft. We are going to a race next Wed, and had planned to take the RV to stay at the track for the duration of the event, but that seems in question now.

I'll update the thread after today's efforts. Thanks for all the input so far, and keep it coming.

twinboat · 03-18-2015, 01:15 PM

If you air it up from an outside source, don`t get under it without blocking it somehow. As a mater of safety you should always block it, when under it.

ScottRussell · 03-18-2015, 07:22 PM

Well it appears this may be a simple fix. The bleed valve on the bottom of the drier is clearly dumping a ton of air with the system aired up. Pretty sure at this point that the drier had some condensation in it and when we had our single digit temps it froze and broke. New one next day aired, so should know tomorrow if that's the entire problem, or if there are other issues.

ScottRussell · 03-21-2015, 10:29 PM

It did turn out to be the bleeder valve on the bottom of the Drier assembly. Replaced it, and did a partial rebuild of the drier and all is back to normal.

The drier had some moisture in the bottom of it when we had a hard freeze, which broke the valve. Easy fix, and back in business.

Thank you to all who contributed. Very much appreciated.

--Scott

Ray,IN · 03-22-2015, 11:47 PM

Scott, the air dryer has a 12V heater inside to prevent freezing while driving. If you haven't already, check it for continuity and resistance factor to make sure it works. It will be on whenever the engine is running.