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Old 08-03-2015, 10:23 PM   #1
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Cooling Fan Hydraulic System

Hi All
Looking for information about the cooling fan on our near-vintage Holiday Rambler Imperial built on a 1995 Spartan Mountain Master Chassis. (side radiator, hydraulic fan)
First question: How many filters are in that hydraulic reservoir?
Second question: Is there a way to measure whether the fan is operating at the correct rpm?
Can anybody steer me to a description or diagram of the fan speed control system?
Did some Idaho/Montana mountain climbing (Fourth of July Pass and Lookout Pass) yesterday in 100 degree weather. Had to back off from my normal 60 mph to keep the temperature gauge out of the red zone.
Thanks in advance for all the input you can provide.
DonL
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:05 PM   #2
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I remember seeing a pdf of the hyd. system, can't remember where. The thread was quite informative and I thought I saved it to my bookmarks_wrong. I'll look around more within the next few days. I remember reading about the speed sensor/controller too.

Update: I found a thread that may be helpful. I didn't read it completely to see if the hyd. system pdf is there.
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Old 08-04-2015, 12:23 PM   #3
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On my '97 Spartan MM there is only one filter. The fan RPMs vary based upon engine RPMs. There are two "priority valves" that regulate fluid pressure to both the fan and power steering. The pressure to the hydraulic power steering takes priority over the radiator fan. Spartan can email the specifics to you including how to check the priority valves, however, changing the fluid and filter would be my first priority as know a dirty hydraulic fluid filter can cause overheating.


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Old 08-04-2015, 12:29 PM   #4
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PS - you can visually see your fan speed increase if you have someone increase engine RPMs while parked from idle up to around 1800 momentarily. Aside from a dirty hydraulic fluid filter, a dirty radiator will cause a rise in engine temp


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Old 08-05-2015, 08:44 PM   #5
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Fan hyd. motor speed is regulated by engine temperature, chassis engine RPM has little to do with regulating coolant temperature.This is discussed in that thread link I posted.
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:55 PM   #6
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My 1997 Spartan Mountain Master with Cummins C8.3 has no electronics on the engine and the hydraulic radiator fan is indeed controlled by engine RPM. It is regulated by the hydraulic pump which runs off the engine.

OP - Attached is a Spartan diagram that might be helpful if it matches your 1995 year model mountain master... hope so and please let us know what you find...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf American Eagle Hydrolic Priority_block_inspection.pdf (1.04 MB, 856 views)
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:25 PM   #7
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Thank you all for responses. Ray, I can't find the link in your posting. When we experienced the overheating we turned the rig around and took it back to Washington, then departed in our car for Minnesota and a class reunion. We'll be back home in a week or so and will get on the problem and put all or your input to work. Thanks again for your responses.
DonL
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Old 08-07-2015, 02:41 PM   #8
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You might want to call/email Spartan with your last 7 of your VIN handy.
Recreational Vehicle Owner Support:

rvcustomerservice@spartanmotors.com
[IMG]resource://skype_ff_extension-at-jetpack/skype_ff_extension/data/call_skype_logo.png[/IMG]800.543.4277 FREE
(Option 1) Customer & Product Support/Chassis information
(Option 2) Owners Training Information
(Option 5) Factory Service & Repair Appointment
(Option 6) Retail, Non-warranty Parts

They should be able to tell you the filter part No. and number required, and the Quarts of fluid required to change it out.
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Old 08-07-2015, 03:00 PM   #9
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Hydraulic fan

The hydraulics control the cooling fan and power steering. It has a spin on filter at the bottom and a fine filter inside the holding tank. You can get at Spartan. Be sure and get the tank gasket also. The fan turns about 280 rpms and ramps up to about 570 rpms when the engine gets to 205 deg and back's down around 197 deg.
I disconnect the solenoid wires to keep it in high speed all the time and mine runs 180 to 195 deg on a hot Texas day. The solenoid defaults to high speed.
Lots of luck !!
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonL View Post
Thank you all for responses. Ray, I can't find the link in your posting. When we experienced the overheating we turned the rig around and took it back to Washington, then departed in our car for Minnesota and a class reunion. We'll be back home in a week or so and will get on the problem and put all or your input to work. Thanks again for your responses.
DonL
My bad, I forgot to include the link to Engine fan speed discussion.
Fan speed is controlled by the wax valve not engine speed, IF the wax valve is operating properly.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:21 PM   #11
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Jeff,
I also have an American Eagle, 1998 that started overheating on hill climbs. You talk about changing the hydraulic filter? Where is it located? I blew a hose last year, yeah that was a mess beside the road. Replaced it and all the fluid but was not aware there was a filter. Thanks for the assistance. One other quick question maybe you could check for me. When the engine is not running can you turn the the fan blade easily in both directions? Or only one?
Thanks
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonL View Post
Hi All
Looking for information about the cooling fan on our near-vintage Holiday Rambler Imperial built on a 1995 Spartan Mountain Master Chassis. (side radiator, hydraulic fan)
First question: How many filters are in that hydraulic reservoir?
Second question: Is there a way to measure whether the fan is operating at the correct rpm?
Can anybody steer me to a description or diagram of the fan speed control system?
Did some Idaho/Montana mountain climbing (Fourth of July Pass and Lookout Pass) yesterday in 100 degree weather. Had to back off from my normal 60 mph to keep the temperature gauge out of the red zone.
Thanks in advance for all the input you can provide.
DonL
When your climbing grades and the Engine gets warmer and you back out and it cools, do you know why it cools, do you know why it got warm??
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORTRIDER View Post
Jeff,
I also have an American Eagle, 1998 that started overheating on hill climbs. You talk about changing the hydraulic filter? Where is it located? I blew a hose last year, yeah that was a mess beside the road. Replaced it and all the fluid but was not aware there was a filter. Thanks for the assistance. One other quick question maybe you could check for me. When the engine is not running can you turn the the fan blade easily in both directions? Or only one?
Thanks
It is inside the fluid reservoir tank... If you call Spartan, provide them the last 8 digits of your VIN, they will tell you the fluid capacity, fluid type, and filter part number. If you have never called Spartan customer assistance, rest assured they are helpful and MORE THAN WILLING AND ACCUSTOMED to helping all Spartan chassis owners, regardless of whether or not you are the original owner or the tenth.

Regarding the radiator fan blade, you are correct! It definitely spins more freely in one direction and has resistance in the other (I have never forced it beyond the initial and obvious resistance).

Be CERTAIN that when climbing hills you are at +2000 to 2200 RPMs otherwise the engine will be "lugging" which absolutely will cause the temperature to rise! You will have to manually downshift to keep the RPMs up. I have climbed Wolf Creek Pass, Colorado twice and had zero problems. It is a long climb and my engine ran like a sewing machine at about 2200 RPMs in second gear and NO temperature fluctuation
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMTTRANSPORT View Post
When your climbing grades and the Engine gets warmer and you back out and it cools, do you know why it cools, do you know why it got warm??
A diesel requires A LOT of air to run efficiently, therefore, when climbing hills, the RPMs have to be up there toward the maximum, to ensure plenty of air, no engine lugging and very little if any over-heating.

Please do not take the above to mean that if your engine's maximum RPM is governed at 2500 RPMs that you need to run it at 2400 or 2450... Mine is Rated at either 2500 or 2600 and it does VERY well between 2000 and 2200 RPMs. The temp drops when you back out, because it is no longer starving for air.
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