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Old 05-30-2013, 03:34 PM   #1
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*noob* Am I missing anything??

Post number 1. I recently purchased a used 2005 Fleetwood/American Revolution 40J. Built on Spartan chassis with C9. Coach has ~35K miles. Maintenance history not known specifically, I know when last service was performed (basic) and that is was serviced "every year" but no specifics...

I love to work on crap like this myself, so thought I would go all out on purchase and do everything....

Sooo, I ordered new Oil filter/Air Filter Canister/Primary and secondary Fuel Filters, both hydraulic filters, the Allison filter kit (I have 4" sump) and need to get a coolant filter. I also purchased 5 gallons of Transynd (confirmed it came with that too). Oh, and I purchased an Air/Oil filter for my Onan 7.5KW

This should make for a busy weekend. Questions for ya'll

1. How much AW46 should I expect to need if I drain filter housing (to replace element) and replace the spin on filter?

2. What is the gauge on the hydraulic spin on filter housing for? Mine has had the plastic lens "opaqued" to the point that I cant make anything out. Worth replacing this??

3. Does anyone have instructions on replacing the coolant on my rig, was going to do that with the coolant filter. I have an email to manufacturer to get the coolant type my rig shipped with so I can replace with like (I assume I should do that, right?).

4. Does the leveling system need a fluid swap at some point, or nay?

5. What am I forgetting? Any other specific maintenance? Was going to check front axle fluid level at hub, no need to replace, correct?


Having fun, had our first trip last weekend. This is an upgrade for our family from a travel trailer. We are likely on the young side for class a DP with two young kids, so love the looks when I pull in places.

Thanks much!

Chris
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:26 PM   #2
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Yep you've got a busy week-end planed.
#5 front hub fluid change , I'd do it just to be on the safe side ; catch all the oil that comes out, and run a very clean magnet through the oil , one side then the other. If you get any metal out of the oil then you should pull the hub to visual the brgs.
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:30 PM   #3
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The only other thing I can think of offhand is you might take a look at your serpentine belt and both radiator caps.
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:27 PM   #4
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Welcome to the irv2.com family! I'm new to the MH world myself. I have discovered we can purchase a complete filter package online for much less money than from a stixNbrix dealership. DW told the dealer to perform a (minus tranny, diff, and radiator) oils and filters change, the bill was $1,100. I will do as you, and change everything myself from now on.
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:21 PM   #5
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My hydraulic tank holds9 quarts just asking the only filter of mine that has a plastic lens is one of the fuel filters.
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:39 PM   #6
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#2 You can get a new hydraulic filter gauge here:
https://www.rvchassisparts.com:8443/...=1370124422985
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:30 AM   #7
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Regarding the coolant change, I would also replace the thermostats (my C7 has two) and upgrade to the CAT ELC (Extended Life Coolant).

The following is a writeup from Brett Wolfe:

Cooling_System_101

I just changed out my coolant to Caterpillar ELC and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience.
To my knowledge no chassis/coach maker is using ELC—so all are "low silicate coolant for diesels" with included or added SCA. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer's instructions (usually every 3 years). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use (we check the SCA concentration in all coaches at Cat RV Club Rallies). When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to Caterpillar ELC and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech.

Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain cock. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. I catch it in 2 Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so I do not even get them dirty. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free.

Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the color is clear.

At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to "Last rinse". For older systems or for switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner such as Cat Fast Acting Cooling System Cleaner 4C4611. Follow directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8 to ĺ" lines going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until what comes out is clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water.

If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s).
Last Rinse is with distilled water. At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water.

Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. My cooling system is 18 gallons, so I added 9 gallons of Caterpillar ELC CONCENTRATE (119-5150) (plus one for overflow container). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture.

This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter.
Check belts while you are in there.

Brett Wolfe





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Old 06-03-2013, 08:14 AM   #8
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Sailor_lou,
Great writeup. I will use it NEXT time ;-).

I just drained old fluid, replaced filter and added new 50/50 mix. Your method is much more thorough. I used Fleetgaurd and will replace in 3 years per your procedure below.

Chris
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:44 AM   #9
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Chris,

I can't take credit for the write-up, it's all Brett. However, when I did mine I deviated slightly and removed both T-stats first. This way when I was doing the repeated flushing to get clear water out, I didn't have to wait for the coolant to get up to temp. so the entire process was faster. Then after the final distilled water flush I installed new T-stats and added the ELC. I also replace the coolant filter every year since it's pretty easy to do.

Good luck with the new rig.

Lou
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:52 PM   #10
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Most everything done BTW. Only real hiccup is my lack of properly "priming" fuel system before intial startup after after changing fuel filter and water seperator. CAT says don't prefill filters so I operated the priming pump (bout 20 pumps) until I saw some fluid on bottom of water separator. Well, I should have kept pumping. After much cranking, then more primer pumping, then more cranking, then more primer pumping I was able to feel what a properly pressurized primer pump "feels" like. It is hard to pump. I should have pumped the primer until it felt that hard I guess.

My wife got a bit worried that the kitty CAT wouldn't start, but to her credit never said anything until after she was purring away.

one more note. I am going to change the coolant in my Onan, and had a question. My onan is NOT on a slide out tray.... How critical is it to change the thermostat? Coolant, easy. Thermostat would require a LOT of work since it is on the top/back of the genset.

Chris
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:45 AM   #11
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I'd also take a peak at your ball joint boots. I'm not sure if your year coach had the problems other Spartan chassis have had . I had to replace mine because the boots were so badly rotted. I should note you can't replace just the boots, you have to change ball joints too.
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