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05-31-2017, 03:12 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North Florida
Posts: 2,474
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Tie-Rod replacement
During routine maintenance, I found a worn tie-rod end on the drag link. Of course all the rubber boots are long gone, but the rod end at Pittman arm has some slop.
From what I've read here and looking at Reyco parts and service info the part is only available as an entire drag link assembly.
I was easily able to remove the worn end and match it up at a local heavy truck parts store.
Before disassembly I measured the drag link overall length, mine is 43 3/8" from center of rod ends
Tie-Rod to pitman arm but uses a 1 5/16" socket.
The nut on the threaded end is 1 7/8"
Then using a tie-rod separator knocked it off in 4 or 5 hard hits with a bfh.
Overall about 45 minutes to R&R.
  
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1999 American Eagle
ASE med/heavy certified technician
ASE advanced diesel certified
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05-31-2017, 06:47 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,519
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From one who does front end work nice post on suggestions on how do this job. I would recommend owners to check front end components before replacing parts. If the rubber boots are damaged doesn't mean one needs to replace components until there is free play in steering or ball joints. With 135K miles on our Newmar Essex there are no damaged front parts in front end other then boots. Grease front end often to keep grease in front end components until need to replace.
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05-31-2017, 07:28 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Palm Beach Gardens FL
Posts: 601
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Good Post mackwrench.
I cannot really read the box well from the picture -- could you post the part you found? Maybe I could always cross reference that if the exact one was not available.
I know that is in my future in maybe a year.
thx Dale
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05-31-2017, 07:32 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North Florida
Posts: 2,474
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Euclid # E-4617, this one is RH threads.
...the Meritor # is R230070. The new rod end was stamped made in USA...
Also fits a Mack Truck part# 10QH39P1
I'll get the part # for the left hand thread model later....
__________________
1999 American Eagle
ASE med/heavy certified technician
ASE advanced diesel certified
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05-31-2017, 07:44 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,397
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Good to measure the drag link length before, I hate off-center steering wheels!! 
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand! 
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10-31-2020, 05:17 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North Florida
Posts: 2,474
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Thought I'd update this thread with the rest of the work.
I replaced the remaining 7 tie rod ends this week.
Note that the drag link part number I used above, the one at the steering box end of link, is a different size than the other 7.
The right hand thread part is ES187R uses 3
Left hand thread- ES187L uses 4
Before disassembly I measured each rod length from center of grease fitting to center of grease fitting.
The tie rods are 20 3/4"
The relay rod is 33"
I put it all back at the same measurements and show 1/8" of toe on.
Not able to road test yet...but steering wheel looks centered.
Everything but a-arm bushings are new now...but the bushings aren't showing any wear.
  
__________________
1999 American Eagle
ASE med/heavy certified technician
ASE advanced diesel certified
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10-31-2020, 07:32 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unplanned
Good to measure the drag link length before, I hate off-center steering wheels!! |
The usual cause of an off-center steering wheel is incorrect thrust angle. When I had a total alignment performed the rear axle was off by 3/4"(thrust angle). Afterwards the steering wheel is centered, the MH tracks great, and steering is much improved. Prior to that either the steer tires or the rears followed the grooves in the pavement, which required constant steering corrections.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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11-01-2020, 09:50 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North Florida
Posts: 2,474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN
The usual cause of an off-center steering wheel is incorrect thrust angle. When I had a total alignment performed the rear axle was off by 3/4"(thrust angle). Afterwards the steering wheel is centered, the MH tracks great, and steering is much improved. Prior to that either the steer tires or the rears followed the grooves in the pavement, which required constant steering corrections.
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Ray, your right. Rear axle thrust must be checked when doing total alignment, as well as ride height.
My coach didn't have any irregular tire wear, wasn't pulling to one side and steering wheel was centered while underway.
I had 3 or 4 rod ends with a little slop, I was "chasing" the steering wheel back and forth....this suspension has 8 rod ends, a little wear in each one adds up to a lot by the time it reaches the steering wheel.
I'd checked steering box adjustment a while back, it's ok.
I've not road test yet, but next weekend planning a short weekend trip.
Next time I'm in central florida, I'd like to get it checked/aligned at Josam in Orlando.
__________________
1999 American Eagle
ASE med/heavy certified technician
ASE advanced diesel certified
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11-09-2020, 05:37 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,525
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When replacing tie rods, yes, measure the center to center length to get a coarse length. I then break the joint loose without removing it. double check steering wheel is still exactly centered. Carefully remove the link without changing the steering wheel or the tire turn. Fit the new assy and do another adjustment so when it's put into place, the steering wheel is still centered and the tires haven't moved the whole procedure.
Certainly a front end alignment would be the final final adjustment.
I got my ends from Newmar. I was surprised on the low price so I bought a few extra.
__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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